Jammed trunk ‘90 LS400
07-15-24, 05:25 PM
#16
Yup I was reading your post and I'm like Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh **** that makes a TON of sense, and an overwhelming sense of curiosity hit me. I had to go check. Because after you mentioned it, you're right, his key isn't going in very far at all.
Curious about this one too. What a weird problem to have.
Curious about this one too. What a weird problem to have.
07-15-24, 05:50 PM
#17
It's possible that the camera angle makes it misleading how far away the key is. I have my car parked against a wall while I'm at work, so I couldn't stand in the same spot as HOberst
Unfortunately, my thoughts are still leaning toward broken or jammed latch.. But I will look at my car some more and the manuals
Unfortunately, my thoughts are still leaning toward broken or jammed latch.. But I will look at my car some more and the manuals
07-15-24, 06:00 PM
#18
Is there really no emergency cord to yank? Even if you have to pull the back seats, but at least it would exist. One of the big negatives of having the fuel tank behind the rear seats I guess. You can't have some kid crawl back there and figure it out lol.
07-15-24, 09:49 PM
#19
First gens (1990-1994) never had an emergency trunk release unfortunately. It was designed before there were any regulations around that
I don't believe 2nd gens (1995-2000) had the release handles or cords either..
I don't believe 2nd gens (1995-2000) had the release handles or cords either..
07-16-24, 04:58 PM
#20
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The video is very helpful!!! Thanks for posting that. Also, very nice LS
I was thinking WD-40 in case your lock is jammed, it might free it up. But you're right - it's better to use something like Graphite lock lubricant. Maybe give that a try
Also, I'm not sure, but I'm wondering if something is blocking your key cylinder or binding.
I just went to my car (1991 LS 400) to check how far the key goes into the lock when inserted. To me, yours looks like it's not quite as far in.
Could you compare with yours?
Note that I checked -> I can't turn the key at all until it's fully inserted, so this may not be related to the problem you're having. But I figure it's worth mentioning
I was thinking WD-40 in case your lock is jammed, it might free it up. But you're right - it's better to use something like Graphite lock lubricant. Maybe give that a try
Also, I'm not sure, but I'm wondering if something is blocking your key cylinder or binding.
I just went to my car (1991 LS 400) to check how far the key goes into the lock when inserted. To me, yours looks like it's not quite as far in.
Could you compare with yours?
Note that I checked -> I can't turn the key at all until it's fully inserted, so this may not be related to the problem you're having. But I figure it's worth mentioning
07-16-24, 05:01 PM
#21
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EDIT: I need to do some more thinking.. But here are some notes. If both the power and manual locks don't work, I suspect something is jammed at the striker on the latch, or the latch is broken.
I spent a little extra time going through my files and the service manual
From the service manual:
- The trunk latch has a linkage between it and the lock cylinder, attached with a plastic retaining clip on the back side of the lock cylinder
Here are some views of the trunk panel, highlighting the location of the lock:
And the back side of the cylinder on my car, with the linkage and the retainer above the hole for the tail light:
Here is what the latch looks like with the linkage:
I spent a little extra time going through my files and the service manual
From the service manual:
- The trunk latch has a linkage between it and the lock cylinder, attached with a plastic retaining clip on the back side of the lock cylinder
Here are some views of the trunk panel, highlighting the location of the lock:
And the back side of the cylinder on my car, with the linkage and the retainer above the hole for the tail light:
Here is what the latch looks like with the linkage:
07-16-24, 05:03 PM
#22
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I just experimented on my car, the key in my 98 inserts considerably further in. This being said, it's a much newer car than your 1990. I don't know if this matters.
What I will say is, OP looks like he can rotate the lock in the cylinder. If my key isn't fully inserted, I can't rotate it more than 5-10 degrees. OP can rotate is 40 or 50 degrees, enough that it visually looks like it's working.
ut that doesn't explain why OP's key doesn't go as far in as mine.
Thoughts?
What I will say is, OP looks like he can rotate the lock in the cylinder. If my key isn't fully inserted, I can't rotate it more than 5-10 degrees. OP can rotate is 40 or 50 degrees, enough that it visually looks like it's working.
ut that doesn't explain why OP's key doesn't go as far in as mine.
Thoughts?
07-16-24, 05:05 PM
#23
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It's possible that the camera angle makes it misleading how far away the key is. I have my car parked against a wall while I'm at work, so I couldn't stand in the same spot as HOberst
Unfortunately, my thoughts are still leaning toward broken or jammed latch.. But I will look at my car some more and the manuals
Unfortunately, my thoughts are still leaning toward broken or jammed latch.. But I will look at my car some more and the manuals
07-16-24, 10:25 PM
#24
In the meantime, I would suggest to try the graphite lock lubricant in the lock cylinder, and to wiggle + rotate your key around to see if you're able to get it to go in further or to unlock
EDIT: As far as I can see, the linkage follows approximately this path
However, if your latch is really stuck, pulling the linkage might not do the job.. The other option would be to remove the 2 bolts holding the latch onto the trunk lid and remove the linkage from the lock cylinder, but you would need enough access.. Probably by removing the inner right tail light... Which is also not easy to do at all from the outside
But consider that the tail light is easier and cheaper to replace than the trunk lid, especially in your color (which is rare). Just make sure one can be purchased before pursuing this option.. And DON'T CUT INTO THE LIGHT WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTED because there is a circuit board and wiring which could short and start a fire...
Routing:
Last edited by CELSI0R; 07-17-24 at 07:43 AM.
07-17-24, 10:17 AM
#25
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07-17-24, 10:21 AM
#26
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Let me see if I can figure that out. I haven't had the time to pull back the trunk lining on my car to look yet
In the meantime, I would suggest to try the graphite lock lubricant in the lock cylinder, and to wiggle + rotate your key around to see if you're able to get it to go in further or to unlock
EDIT: As far as I can see, the linkage follows approximately this path
However, if your latch is really stuck, pulling the linkage might not do the job.. The other option would be to remove the 2 bolts holding the latch onto the trunk lid and remove the linkage from the lock cylinder, but you would need enough access.. Probably by removing the inner right tail light... Which is also not easy to do at all from the outside
But consider that the tail light is easier and cheaper to replace than the trunk lid, especially in your color (which is rare). Just make sure one can be purchased before pursuing this option.. And DON'T CUT INTO THE LIGHT WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTED because there is a circuit board and wiring which could short and start a fire...
Routing:
In the meantime, I would suggest to try the graphite lock lubricant in the lock cylinder, and to wiggle + rotate your key around to see if you're able to get it to go in further or to unlock
EDIT: As far as I can see, the linkage follows approximately this path
However, if your latch is really stuck, pulling the linkage might not do the job.. The other option would be to remove the 2 bolts holding the latch onto the trunk lid and remove the linkage from the lock cylinder, but you would need enough access.. Probably by removing the inner right tail light... Which is also not easy to do at all from the outside
But consider that the tail light is easier and cheaper to replace than the trunk lid, especially in your color (which is rare). Just make sure one can be purchased before pursuing this option.. And DON'T CUT INTO THE LIGHT WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTED because there is a circuit board and wiring which could short and start a fire...
Routing:
07-17-24, 12:28 PM
#27
Regarding the graphite in the lock.. it is an easy enough thing to try, I had assumed the 3 shops I took it to would’ve tried that first but that’s just an assumption. I guess why I haven’t tried it is because even if my key was the issue, the trunk should still release with the electronic release handle inside the car. The fact that is doesn’t, tell me it HAS to be the latch broken or jammed inside
07-17-24, 05:46 PM
#28
This is a nuts situation. Too bad there's no way to remove the stop/tail lenses to gain access.
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