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This is one of those situations that just doesn't really make sense, but maybe it does...
First, my 430 makes the same noises your video shows every time I disconnect the battery but it lasts much longer.
The duration of time may be because the 430 has over 40 ECUs independent of the main ECU.
I'm fairly certain none of the listed codes are capable of causing a no-start condition.
But, the first 3 can produce a code from insufficient voltage during the system check.
The "strange" noises you hear is the ECU performing a system check after the absence of battery voltage. Is your battery healthy? It may have been fine a month ago but it has been sitting.
If the battery voltage isn't pushing the ECU through the entire system check it likely won't allow the car to start until it's completed. This is the only thing that makes sense logically.
P0120- Excessively low circuit voltage
P1120- TPS out of range
P1126- Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction, this is the clutch between the throttle motor and throttle valve.
P1656- Oil control valve. This code can be triggered as a result of low oil pressure which the car obviously has after sitting for a month.
Thanks a lot for the advice Brad. I'm really perplexed too.
I measured the voltage, it's reading 12.33 volts at a resting state (car has been disconnected for about 2hr). This measurement was after several cranks of the motor, so I'm sure it was slightly higher when I first plugged it back in. I've been able to start the car with far lower states of charge before (dimming lights, wheel barely moves, dashboard is dim).
I should mention I am disconnecting the car from its battery between every attempt to start the car to preserve its life with the car sitting being undriven.
However I cannot test the batteries resilience to load, whether it can maintain enough volts when it's being cranked or first powered on. It is about 4 years old currently. Could a weak battery provide a problem like that? I will ask for my neighbors battery tender later on this evening to make sure.
I would also be willing to go temporarily buy a new battery as part of the testing too. If you think this would be a good idea I'll go do it. I am your oyster, willing to do anything to get her back online again. I've gotten really quite nervous about permanent damage done as part of the process and I'm in way over my head. Thanks guys.
98-00 capacitor replacement is just a money grab which is why we don't do it. We aren't lying or "have the wrong information." We've been doing this long enough to know what should and shouldn't be done to certain part numbers and year range components. We don't believe in charging customers for things that don't make sense to do. If you don't want to believe us that's fine. Give your money away to someone else.
Sounds like the ECU in question in this post will just need to be replaced. Then also have the immobilizer reset so you can program your existing keys into the ECU. Once that is done then the car will start. If you want us to locate a replacement ECU for you and set up the immobilizer programming we can do that.
Originally Posted by 400fanboy
These were the emails I received from Tanin. While Josh was very nice and professional, I felt the same way about these responses as you did. The fact that I am correcting the company performing the repair is a red flag to me.
I don't have pictures of the inside. If I end up sending it to someone else, I will break the warranty seal on SIA's work to examine it (& share pictures) before sending it out. But I want to exhaust all other options before doing that.
I really appreciate the referral to Jim Walker. I do know who he is (I use his website for pictures all the time, it's been super helpful). I reached out to him earlier this year actually and he said he is winding down the business that he's doing with ECU repair. However, I wonder if my circumstances may be more a-typical so your idea may be valid. I have him, and Josh from Relentless Motorsports, as my backup currently.
SIA took a month before my product returned to me. Hopefully that won't be repeated.
Then the fact that I'm an idiot is just the simplest solution. Thanks for posting a reply and I'm sorry for the ****storm that's been caused, with me as it's energy source.
If that's the path, so be it. I'm going to sleep on this information, thanks for your input everyone.
Then the fact that I'm an idiot is just the simplest solution. Thanks for posting a reply and I'm sorry for the ****storm that's been caused, with me as it's energy source.
If that's the path, so be it. I'm going to sleep on this information, thanks for your input everyone.
Has Yamae weighed in on this question of capacitor replacement for 98-00?
So you don't have any codes although the AT is not working right. My idea is to check the 5.0V Vcc's ripple level in the ECU. An ECU for a 98-00 tends to show some rough gear shifting problems when the ripple level reaches to 150mVp-p or so.
At the initial failing stage of an ECU for a 98-00, the engine still runs good but the AT doesn't behave as it should. The best measuring method is to use an oscilloscope and connect it to the MAF sensor's Vcc line. Another quicker but a bit rough method is this.
One idea is simply to replace QAS (Quaternary Ammonium Salt) capacitors unconditionally if the ripple measurement can't be done comfortably. The lifespan of an ECU for a 98-00 is longer than a 89-97 due to the lesser stress to QAS capacitors but QAS capacitors are prone to fail someday due to the character of used material quaternary ammonium salt. Those don't last longer than conventional electrolytic capacitors because the QAS becomes very strong alkali as it ages due to the dry-up. A smart guy would replace those capacitor as one of preventive measures.
I would love to hear from you sir about my current situation.
It wouldn't hurt, or cost anything, to take the battery to a parts store for testing.
I don't know which part of Nevada you live in but if you're anywhere near Vegas a 4 yo battery is likely on its deathbed.
I lived in Phoenix for 20 years we were lucky to get 2.5 years out of a battery due to extreme heat. Worse case scenario you buy a new battery...
Yup the battery plan is on my list for tonight still. My neighbor should be home in an hour or two so I can borrow their battery jump box. If that doesn't work, my next stop will be to the parts store for a new battery. If that doesn't work, I will check that pin on the MAF.
With some help, I measured the battery voltage during certain phases. 12.25v when unplugged. 11.3v when I put the key into the ignition. "10.8 and falling" when I turn on the headlights. Under 10 while cranking. I didn't bother trying to use the jump box after this.
New battery installed. Stats are now above 12v. Car still won't start, symptoms are the same. Then I cleared the existing codes and got a new list:
P0120
P1120
P1126
P0335
P0340
P1345
P1350
After 5 minutes, I cleared the codes again. Now I only have the original 4 I've always had.
P0120
P1120
P1126
P1656
Next, I measured the MAF. Am I measuring the right thing? I put the key into ACC and then measured, I got 12.2v when measuring DC, and I didn't get any reading when measuring resistance. The OHM setting on my multimeter just kept saying O.L and never changed.
If the car was running fine before the ECU re-cap, I'm pretty sure that the issue is the ECU.
Occam's Razor applies in 99.99% of the time. "The simplest explanation always the best one."
I completely agree and 400fanboy, only IF you believe you are going to void the SIA “warranty” anyway, maybe it’s time to crack open the ECU and get some detailed and careful photographs of the capacitors and soldering job and general condition of the boards? May reveal nothing at all, but could provide a clue to some of the experienced folks on here? Again only if you aren’t going to send back to SIA…
Well, let's open it up. I had to put about 50-80 pounds of bodyweight on my screwdriver to get enough grip to not strip the screws. When I personally opened and closed this unit before sending it out, I reinstalled them hand-tight as I knew it would need to be re-opened.
And upon inspection, the plot thickens. I took the pictures below 5 minutes ago.
I don’t have enough of an eagle eye but if those are the original ones still in there (on my 1995 the originals were a brownish color and said nichicon in small letters), boy that’s bad. If that’s actually the case I would dispute the charge assuming you paid with a credit card. The guy who rebuilt mine sent back the old ones in a little bag along with the rebuilt ECU, even labeling for me the one capacitor that had just started to leak slightly. And I have no doubt he did it also because the car felt a tad bit lighter on its feet after I reinstalled the ECU.
09-22-24, 03:23 PM
