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I can't plug in a OBD scanner with the jumper wire. They both use the OBD port. I ran the bluetooth OBD reader after doing the jumper thing to see if codes had changed, and they had not.
CEL does not flash. On and stays on with the key in. I believe this is also normal behavior, CEL light does not clear until the motor is running IIRC.
I can't plug in a OBD scanner with the jumper wire. They both use the OBD port. I ran the bluetooth OBD reader after doing the jumper thing to see if codes had changed, and they had not.
CEL does not flash. On and stays on with the key in. I believe this is also normal behavior, CEL light does not clear until the motor is running IIRC.
Si, comprende.
Is this a viable alternative to SWAG:
I think you should start thinking about finding another, unmolested ECU with matchingOEM keys. You don't need the matching lock sets.
You can remove the guts (button/transponder) out of your existing key shells, and replace them with the guts from the replacement keys. The transponders will still match the replacement ECU and you don't have to go thru any lock swaps or key cutting.
I think you should start thinking about finding another, unmolested ECU with matchingOEM keys. You don't need the matching lock sets.
You can remove the guts (button/transponder) out of your existing key shells, and replace them with the guts from the replacement keys. The transponders will still match the replacement ECU and you don't have to go thru any lock swaps or key cutting.
I agree. In post #18 "Tanin Auto" made this statement as well;
"Sounds like the ECU in question in this post will just need to be replaced. Then also have the immobilizer reset so you can program your existing keys into the ECU. Once that is done then the car will start. If you want us to locate a replacement ECU for you and set up the immobilizer programming we can do that"
However you go forward I think this is the most probable solution to get it running again. Unfortunately its going to cost you, more time and more money. Or you can keep tracing and diagnosing, but doing this will give you the answer of whether the ecu is bad or not.
Man. Well thank you so much everyone for your contributions. It really helped a lot as I wade through this quagmire. I couldn't have done it without ya'lls help.
I don't have any updates to post after this weekend, but I'm reaching out to some folks to make the next steps.
I know it's a touchy subject but...
Have you spoken to anyone with SIA in the aftermath?
You're already in this deep, might as well turn over every rock.
According to various sources 89661-50560 is the newest revision and replaces: 89661-50430, 89661-50431, 89661-50432, 89661-50433, 89661-50434, 89661-50560, 89662-50010
From the FWIW Department.....I see two part numbers for the '98, three if you count Taiwan. This is just a general search by model year. My guess is they only show what might still be available; they're probably the latest versions as well. It would be better to do a search by specific VIN.
I don't know how Toyota configuration control works, so I'm not sure if the superseded part numbers will work for you. Or what the differences between them would be.
The way typical configuration control works:
If the new part number is backward compatible, it keeps the same part number, and gets a dash number or letter: Ex: Old P/N 123456; New P/N 123456-1
If the new part number is not backward compatible, it get a new part number: Ex: Old P/N 123456; New P/N 135422
From the FWIW Department.....I see two part numbers for the '98, three if you count Taiwan. This is just a general search by model year. My guess is they only show what might still be available; they're probably the latest versions as well. It would be better to do a search by specific VIN.
If you need my VIN for research, please DM me and I will provide it. I'd prefer not to post it publicly on the internet.
89661-50434
Well, we have a new ECU that would work for you and this one has been reman'd by Denso. 89661-50560-84. We would need your original ECU sent in, then we can transfer the immobilizer programming into the new one. Everything should be plug and play then and the car should start right up.
Well, we have a new ECU that would work for you and this one has been reman'd by Denso. 89661-50560-84. We would need your original ECU sent in, then we can transfer the immobilizer programming into the new one. Everything should be plug and play then and the car should start right up.
I have some ***** up in the air so for the moment, there is no action. Full disclosure, I've reached out to Joshua Beaumont from Relentless Motorsports as well to have his opinion weighed in. Along with Jim Walker aka the Lexpert.
However, I want to say thank you for being proactive and reaching out to this thread. I haven't made a decision, but you have given me a great deal of relief that you have a solution in-stock. I'm going to make a decision of what to do in the coming days. And for whatever decision I make, I am committed to seeing it to completion.
Again, thank you. To you and everyone else for offering your opinions and assisting me.
I only have one follow-up question. Have you guys performed this operation before?
09-27-24, 02:07 PM
