I agree that Toyota transmission fluid, coolant, and power steering fluid are completely self-sufficient in most cases for a rediulously long time (depending on individual experience/application) as long as they are changed out regularly.

However
-Not everyone drives a Toyota product
-Even those who do, not everyone buys their cars new (including me w/ my gs400 , possibly the guy who started this thread, etc) and thus the previous owners might have very likely not used OEM fluids. The Toyota OEM fluids are excellent and maintaining clean components, but they are not so effective in my experience at cleaning poorly maintained components.
-Even those who bought new may not care to use OEM fluids or may not change out their fluids often enough. I personally do, but not everyone does, and for those that don't, sometimes outside detergent packages are necessary
-Fuel injectors are fuel injectors... the only thing aside from additives you can do to help them is to buy good gasoline and make sure your fuel filter and pump are working correctly. Some people may get lucky with them and never have a problem despite never using an additive, but that doesn't mean everyone is so lucky. I once saw an article on a guy with a Chevy Silverado he used to make a 4-state paper route every day for his job. He racked up well over a million miles on it in less than 10 years and never once rebuilt or repaired the motor... just changed it with penzoil and went along the way. Now is that the norm? Heck no. He's just the exception to the norm.
-You can't dare tell me that Toyota engines never build up sludge. Especially with the ES300/RX300 motors. Those guys would be very well served by a carbon liquifier like Auto-Rx in the crank case.
-If there was no buildup in the top end of my GS400 w/ 50k miles, then why did a ton of smoke come out after letting BG induction system cleaner run through? Was it just a cheap trick and it's the actual fluid causing the smoke? If so then why did the amount of smoke reduce drastically toward the end of my application?

Yes sometimes people have no need for additives. Other times they would notice a difference with them, but it's not a necessity, and other times it could save them a lot of headaches. Yes the type of car and type of fluids used will make a difference here as well. But to pretend that Toyotas are immune to dirty internals all across the board under any circumstances is just flat out ignorant.

I think it's become plenty clear to me and many other board members that you have some sort of vendentta out against additive chemicals no matter what they are.

And if that's the case, I dare you to go to your local refinery from now on and buy 55 gallon drums straight from the source, no detergent or additive packages whatsoever... and see how long your car lasts. You don't need to silly additives and detergents anyway... Chevron, Shell, Amoco, BP, Sun, and all the rest have no idea what they're doing and realistically are just waisting their time and our money by adding that crap to our gas.

 

Guys, chill out......

I know my top end is full of gunk.
I agree with THREXX, Because I've used BG before and a whole lot of crap comes out of your tail pipe when you use it and 'til the crap burns off.

But does it really work? I dunno, I hope so....
To find out for sure:
I'm going to do the valve adjustment really soon.
To quote the guy who did it and posted to the forum.
"the ticking is driving me up the wall!"

valve job link

When I take off the induction, I'll take pics to show how clean it got after the treatment.
For some proof or lack of.
And then I'll scrub it with some FICleaner to get it really clean, before I put it all back together.
If I can successfully get my Lex from the wife for a couple days, I'll get to work and post pics of the valve job.
But I need to get all the parts first.....
If all goes well, I'll dive into the Isuzu also.

As for the Oil issue - I'm pretty sure its the exhaust valves ticking becuase of my cats clogging up and ruining the clearances. (noise is on bottom as opposed to the all over noise on the isuzu - inconsistant maintenance issues)

And after reading everyone's post here for 3 weeks I recommend everyone either
a. use OEM filters
or
b. K&N filters
or
c. use Mobil 1.

I like to take advise from everyone and work somewhere in the middle of the mixed signals.
So, happy driving and believe in only what you know for sure.....

For any additive realted issues....
If anyone else has proof or lack of POST IT!

thanks guys!



Lorenzo
92 LS400 170k

 

K&N and Mobil 1 filters are nearly identcal. Both made by Champion labs and only a very few minor differences that in effect cause the K&N to supposedly handle a little higher oil pressure and flow a little better, but at the same time not filter quite as effectively. But in all reality for all but the most discerning customer, they are the exact same thing except for the name on the outside and the price you pay.

 

Have ya heard in some thread around here about "changing your own oil?" poll thread...
that some ppl change their oil over 6,000+ miles????
They even said that Toyota/Lexus dealership taught them to do every 6k+ miles and not 3k+.
Just 'cuz it's a lexus.

hard to believe.

not me, i change every 3,000 miles.

y0 wazzup Lorenzo! My car is fixed. Did it myself with my uncle. when my car finally didn't start back up or "dead"...we got a chance to check all the sensors and ti'l we found a greasy dirty crankshaft sensor. cleaned it up then plug it back in...broom~! car drives like a dream now, then i got change of heart to keep the car...but ugh nakamichi amp needs replacing, too quiet in the car.

 

maybe someone else can help me on this issue.

6k change is in the manual, and I'd like to think that the 1uzfe can handle that kind of rotation of oil changes just because of how its built.

But to be honest, like Threxx said there are a "few" exceptions to the rule. You know the 500,000 mile and up club....
That do exactly like they're supposed to and magically their cars are the model to live by.
LIke that's normal or something.....

I don't exaclty live by the 3k change on my Isuzu either, but I stay damn close to it,
(especially on that engine..... ask any isuzu owner how there truck is...)
Because if you are intimate with your car you know when it needs a change.
Kind of like how I know that the exhaust valves need fixing on the Lex.

I do my oil changes myself every 6k on the Lex. Not right on the dot, but I get annoyed when I know it needs changing...... you can feel it, hear it and then finally when you unscrew that plug..... see it!

I don't believe everything I read or hear. Like I said before I take everyone's advise, or those who seem to have a clue what they're saying, and I go somewhere in the middle of all the mixed signals.

Oh and guys, about that Lucas Crap. I dumped it after 600 miles and put straight castrol and a K&N oil filter on the Lex.
The only issue is the tapping.

 

The manual for my 1UZ-FE GS400 says to change every 6,000 miles at the most. I use synthetic Mobil 1 oil which from everything I've read should last at least TWICE as long as regular oil (which is what I think the manual assumes you will be using, especially since every lexus dealer I'm aware of uses regular oil). So I go to 8,000 miles, which I figure isn't pushing things at all given the circumstances.

 

I hear some Engine tapping on my LS as well. Not sure if it’s the same thing you guys are talking about, the closest thing I can describe it to is a quiet Diesel engine if you stick your head by the front bumper. I'm sure my belt needs replacment as well.

I took a video with my cell phone, but it won’t play with Windows media player or quick time. If anyone has T-zones, I can send it to them if they want to give me their analysis.

 

well I just don't want to take the risk going over 3k miles per oil change.
Even tho when I change my oil every 3k, the oil comes out dark, very dark.
and before i do that, i check the dip stik, the oil level was also low once, when i went over 3250 miles.

maybe it's just the type of oil I use? I use synthetic castrol 5w-30 and Fram Pro Filter.
I know fram is bad...or maybe it's just a rumor for certain ppl. but I never had problems with using Fram filter ever since I owned my LS4.

 

Dark oil does not necessarily mean it's bad. That particular type of oil may just turn dark when it gets hot/worn-in. Ever see rear differential fluid when you put it in vs just a hundred or so miles later? It goes from bright, clear and colorful to dismally muddy looking, but that's only after 100 miles, when it should last at LEAST 90,000 miles or so.

Or it may just mean that your Fram filter isn't doing its job as well as it should and thankfully your oil's detergent package is picking up the slack.

BTW... most people that say Fram isn't very good aren't saying that they've personally had bad luck with them. They're just saying that if you take apart a Fram filter, it is visibly obvious that they cut some serious corners to save them money. Like a glued on cadrboard filter bottom or completely ineffective anti drainback valve.

It's kind of like using a nutritional supplement and hearing some chemists saying it's no good and also the occasional person is getting cancer from it. Do you really want to wait until you start having a problem? Then it's too late and you can only learn from your mistake after you rebuild the motor or sell the car and get a new one.

 

hm, then I better get to changing filter...

but i have been driving this car for 65k+ miles...heh i drive from new york to NC and Illinois alot, using Fram Pro filter not Regular Fram.

But anywayz, imma listen to you guys on this. I wont wait, i'll get right on it. and tear that piece of ***** filter off, and maybe examine it.

 

Everyone, We've been over this hundred times and there is a link To oil filter testing....
Sorry to be blunt, but the search button works wonders, and so does google and A9.

oil filter study

Take everyone's advise and go in the middle.

But my own Isuzu has used Fram forever and I've noticed exactly what they say.
(no quotes here - paraphrasing)"""
The valve in the filter is faulty and when you first start your car up it ticks like hell.
And then thins out and sounds Okay."""

But I've noticed that when I do put the K&N filter on my Truck it is significantly heavier when I take it off 3k later.
Same with the OEM toyota that was on the Lex when I first bought it.
I thought that it was wierd, but now I'm educated as to why it is so heavy.
Sludge.


Do a search on oil filters here in the forum and you will find plenty of back and forths on the importance of good filters and which ones to use., part numbers, brands etc etc
Now There is a link to a site that tracks dealer inventory and I did a search on the "good" old oil filter for the LS's and Found several across the nation not just at Sewell's and Carson's etc etc etc.
Search for that too, because I have it written down and that paper is in my car.....

After years of being misled by ad companies and their "tests" we all have to just do it ourselves and know for sure.
I do believe that Fram sucks and that a 10$ filter isn't much on anyone's pocket.
Just don't compare the cost of paying to the 20 and 15 dollars quicky oil change places as a measure of standard. Sometimes more money does mean better quality.
(thinking of a Bad Religion song)
Those oil change places make money in numbers not quality.

I also heard something about those same folks not changing the filter on the RX330 because it is hard to get to and when a car comes in hot, they don't want to get burned on the manifold.
Or they're too frigging lazy to take the plastic cover of the bottom of the car. Don't know which one it is though. Both suck.

my 2 cents