Dreaded Front End Creak
#1
Dreaded Front End Creak
OK.. I've read alot of posts about the front suspension on the 1st Gen LS.. I stumbled upon a thread the other day that referenced brakes that required lubrication to end a creaking noise. I have already removed and greased the sway bar bushings to silence most of the issue, but I still have a creak when turning and braking at the same time.. when I stop in a straight line.. i don't have any noise... and I can also turn silently at that point as well. Bad roads and bumps do not produce the noise either.. I'm assuming the strut mounts or tie rods could be bad and only stressed when braking and turning at the same time??.. or would that be a good indication of brake issues rather than front end suspension?? Either way I'm going to have to have a pro look at it.. but I'd like to be halfway prepared.. any thoughts greatly apprecated..
#3
Thanks. i know that the bushings are bad. Had them greased and squeaking over speedbumps is gone. I've still got the popping or knuckle sound when braking and turning.. figuring ball joints or strut mounts.. but still unsure. What were your symtoms for ball joint problems? What should the balljoint repair cost?
#4
Actually, the bushing noise (creak & crunch sounds) was the reason I took my car to my mechanic, not the dealership. They found the lower ball joints were bad and then the bushings.
The cost to repair it all was just about $700.
The cost to repair it all was just about $700.
#5
Dreaded Front End
Seahawk, I'm having the EXACT same problem when turning and braking! I had my bushing replaced and while the car rides better, the noise is still there! I've been to the local dealer and an aftermarket repair shop specializing in Lexus. The dealer kept the car for almost a month to no avail! I asked about the ball joints and they said that wasn't the problem. If you find out anything please let me know! This is driving me crazy. Without this issue, this car has been superb.
#6
Thanks for the input.. will probably be next week before I'll be able to take it by. I'll let you know what comes of it. The real problem is me.. I could probably drive this car another 150k miles with the car exactly like it is now.. but I can't stand a creak or rattle.. ! I grit my teeth every time I hear it..
#7
Seahawk,
I'm the same way, too! Squeaks and rattles drive me nuts even there's no mechanical problem. Good ole matchsticks (paper ones) work great for wedging into dash squeaks. In fact, I used that to stop a squeak in the dash in another of my cars. Worked for years.
Good luck next week.
I'm the same way, too! Squeaks and rattles drive me nuts even there's no mechanical problem. Good ole matchsticks (paper ones) work great for wedging into dash squeaks. In fact, I used that to stop a squeak in the dash in another of my cars. Worked for years.
Good luck next week.
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#8
Installing KYB and strut mounts on all 4 corners.. Ordered Poly swaybar bushings for front and rear and also replacing carrier bushings in rear. Will know soon if this is closed.
I'm driving a Lexus with empty pockets..
I'm driving a Lexus with empty pockets..
#9
Did you say they replaced ALL the bushings in the front end - specifically the upper and lower arm bushings? Your post says you had them greased but that doesn't seem to make much sense since the upper and lower arm bushings can't be "greased" without replacing them. Your problem sounds exactly like a control arm bushing tear in the front end.
The carrier/strut rod bushing in the rear tears all the time but it is usually diagnosed by a light feeling in the sterring rather than noises.
The carrier/strut rod bushing in the rear tears all the time but it is usually diagnosed by a light feeling in the sterring rather than noises.
#10
Strut mounts making the noise, but shocks are shot and doing rear for equality reasons. I had mentioned the sway bar bushings were squeaking before but had them greased and they quieted down. Replacing the front with poly and rear to match again.
I had severe movemement in rear but did not post originally.. it would rear it's head combined with an ugly pitch when braking at high speeds (car would tilt towards front driver side). I didn't post all these originally as I was pretty sure of everything but the creaking. Hopefully this cures my woes for now.
I had severe movemement in rear but did not post originally.. it would rear it's head combined with an ugly pitch when braking at high speeds (car would tilt towards front driver side). I didn't post all these originally as I was pretty sure of everything but the creaking. Hopefully this cures my woes for now.
#11
Seahawk? UNCW?? You in Wilm? My home town. Graduated from UNC-Wonderful 5 years ago. Please let us know what happens as my 95 has the same issue. I have new strut rods and new lower ball joints, still have that noise. I think it's either the brakes or tie rods. When i'm sitting still and push down on the brakes hard, i can hear it then also. I think the pads are going out and the cable is stretched to max capacity. Or at least I hope so and it's not the steering rack. Tie rods go out too. Anyway, let us know what you find! Go Hawks! They got the shaft this year by the NIT conference
#12
Poly swaybar bushings were wrong size and I don't see one that matches, they are going back. The new shocks ride awesome, but I still have the CREAKING... ack... I think it's going to be control arm bushings for me.. I'm not sure I have the skill to manage it myself nor the pockets to pay for it. It almost seems to be more noisy now.. an added clunk when going over bumps or manholes. What is the skinny on the brakes creaking NC211.. never heard of that before. This may get worse before it gets better... I still think the car rules the road. UNCW class of 93.
#13
It is the control arm bushings. The "Brake" creaking is actually the bushing compressing and rubbing as the tire attempts to stop the car but car continues to want to move (some Netwon thing I hear). The bushings sit between the two and come under stress. If they have failed, they make noise. New bushings will eliminate the movement, vibration, and noise. TM Engineering sells the front end set for $99. Figure another $200-$300 to have them put in or you can try to do it yourself. Here is one of the DIY guides: http://www.lextreme.com/bushing.html
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
#14
Reading the DIY gives is an 8/10 difficulty and a 5-8 hr / wheel job. I'll have to take vacation
If your cost estimate is correct (and thanks for that by the way!) then I will feel better about having somebody else do it. Not great, but better. Thanks again for the input.
If your cost estimate is correct (and thanks for that by the way!) then I will feel better about having somebody else do it. Not great, but better. Thanks again for the input.
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