LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

And God Said....let There Be A/c

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Old 09-28-05, 12:55 AM
  #16  
601LEXTACY
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Dam With Guys Like You Who Needs Mechanics.

Well For Those Who Were Wondering No I Didnt Go To Ole Miss. Im A Former Military Veteran. And If You Know Anything About Mississippi Weather I Have 4 Letters For You

H
E
A
T

I Cannot Deal With It. Winters Comin. But I Wanna Fix It. Its Not Cooll To Have A Lex And The Chics Like Im Hot.
So I Will Try Turnin The Compressor To See If It Budges. Thats Seems An Easy Move. It It Doesnt Turn I Will Try The Switch And If That Doesnt Work Im Ebay Bound. So Wish Me Luck Team.
I Am Goin To Need It.
Old 09-28-05, 09:05 AM
  #17  
damon
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The 89-92 Toyota Cressida also uses a Nippondenso 10PA20C compressor part #
88320-2258084, any chance they are compatible? It is a 4 groove and an LS uses a 6 groove clutch.

My fix turned out to be.
FR Cigar 15A fuse change got me back up & working. Metal debris had fallen in the lighter mechanism.

Last edited by damon; 09-28-05 at 09:40 AM.
Old 09-28-05, 09:38 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by damon
The 89-92 Toyota Cressida also uses a Nippondenso 10PA20C compressor part #
88320-2258084, any chance they are compatible?

My fix turned out to be.
FR Cigar 15A fuse change got me back up & working. Metal debris had fallen in the lighter mechanism.
Man, I love those fixes.
Old 09-28-05, 10:47 AM
  #19  
601LEXTACY
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Aight. Tried To Spin The Compressor By Hand And Its Wouldnt Budge. So Is It Broken Or What.
Old 09-28-05, 11:24 AM
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skperformance
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It could be either a compressor in lock up or the clutch is stuck.
What did you try and spin , the other pulley connected to the belt or the inner one?
I am not sure as i have never tried to move an internal clutch by hand.

Here is the list
A/C codes
Old 09-28-05, 11:40 AM
  #21  
damon
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Clutch part #'s for 10PA20C's
Denso 4730190
Warner (US made) 1416-85 (These are 6 groove clutchs,btw)

So if I were not transparent enough. If you have a new 10PA20C compressor body, how hard is it to change out the clutch from a 4 to a 6?

601, I'm feeling your pain. Just read your other suspension post.

Last edited by damon; 09-28-05 at 10:02 PM.
Old 09-28-05, 05:01 PM
  #22  
601LEXTACY
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I Cant Use Anything Else But My Hand Because Its So Tight In There. You Seen The 1st Generation V8. Very Little Room For A Grown Mans Hand In There. Ya Know. I Think I Might Just Get A New Compressor.
Old 09-30-05, 08:15 PM
  #23  
nthach
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Originally Posted by damon
The 89-92 Toyota Cressida also uses a Nippondenso 10PA20C compressor part #
88320-2258084, any chance they are compatible? It is a 4 groove and an LS uses a 6 groove clutch.

My fix turned out to be.
FR Cigar 15A fuse change got me back up & working. Metal debris had fallen in the lighter mechanism.
Nope. Insides are the same, but mounting is different. IIRC, the 1UZ mounting is a 5 ear, while the 7M mounting is 3 ear.
Old 10-01-05, 10:28 AM
  #24  
damon
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Got word yesterday that not only is the mounting different but also the issue of a speed sensor which the Cressida does not have.

I am giving some serious thought to replacing my 175,000 mile compressor before it fails in order to control cost & avoid "black Death".
Old 10-03-05, 05:17 PM
  #25  
damon
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Default Compressor Oil

Nthach or whomever,

Is there any specific compressor oil I should consider using?

Thanks,
Old 10-03-05, 08:45 PM
  #26  
nthach
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Originally Posted by damon
Nthach or whomever,

Is there any specific compressor oil I should consider using?

Thanks,
I used BVA Auto 100 POE oil which is repacked ChevronTexaco Capella HFC oil, i got it at www.ackits.com - order the small 2 oz bottle for the drier and the bigger 8oz bottle for the system. I used it all. The dealer will use Denso Oil 8, which is a PAG 46 DEC oil, which is also what Ford, Chrysler, Mercedes, VW, Honda, and BMW among a few that use it. Stay away from oils at Pep Boys, AutoZone or other chain places, they have O-ring conditioners and sealers that might harm the system. The Quest stuff AutoZone and Napa sell has methylene chloride in it - not good. The reason why a ester(POE) oil should be used is becuase you have trace amounts of mineral oil in the system, and it is much more retrofit friendly+not as hygroscopic. PAG oil MUST be kept sealed from the atmosphere at all times, and it doesn't mix with R12 and mineral oil. However, if the WHOLE system is being replaced with new parts and new hoses and lines, i would go with the OEM Denso oil.
Old 10-03-05, 08:46 PM
  #27  
nthach
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Now with R-12, if you have the money and license to get the stuff, just regular R12 mineral oil would work, i think Denso Oil 6 is the OEM R12 oil.
Old 10-04-05, 01:56 AM
  #28  
damon
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Thanks Ntach

Can you tell me anymore about the benefit of a product w a viscosity ratiing of 100 when the spec is for PAG 46?

My system uses R134 , has all original components w 175,000 miles. I'm thinking of a pre-emptive compressor change to avoid "black death". Crazy, but I think it may save me money in the long run. As made obvious by my questions, I know very little about AC Systems.
Old 10-04-05, 09:38 AM
  #29  
nthach
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Originally Posted by damon
Thanks Ntach

Can you tell me anymore about the benefit of a product w a viscosity ratiing of 100 when the spec is for PAG 46?

My system uses R134 , has all original components w 175,000 miles. I'm thinking of a pre-emptive compressor change to avoid "black death". Crazy, but I think it may save me money in the long run. As made obvious by my questions, I know very little about AC Systems.
The POE 100 oil is a "universal" oil, for use when a AC system is serviced and a tech doesn't know what oil is in the system, or when a R12 to R134a retrofit is performed. Honestly, if you car came with R134a from the factory, stick to the PAG 46 oil, just use 8oz instead of the factory spec 6.

The way to tell if the system has been retrofittted for R134 from R12 is that the service ports have R134a fittings screwed onto the original ports, they are usually made out of brass or aluminum. Also look for a blue label, if it has been done right.
Old 10-07-05, 05:22 PM
  #30  
Christian
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Hello,

ever since we got the compressor changed it makes a whining noise while running. The system noe is using R134a and all hoses and lines were changed. Is it possible that the system is low on oil? How do I get more oil in there? Besides that the system runs and cools great.

Chris
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