sloted and drilled rotors(opions)
06-09-06, 06:20 PM
#1
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sloted and drilled rotors(opions)
does any one notice a differnce between the sloted and drilled rotors?? 
iam looking into getting some but dont know if i should or not.
iam looking into getting some but dont know if i should or not.
06-09-06, 07:42 PM
#2
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the difference between slotted and drilled is pretty simple
drilled rotors is for better cooling
slotted is for better contact between pad and rotor.
(under breaking, pads usually build up a coat of film on the surface,
and the slots just scrape off the film for better contact.)
the slots do help cool the rotor quite a bit, but not as much as the drilled rotors.
imo no street car needs drilled. if you track often then sure, go for it.
plus, ive had a few friends that have cracked their rotors because of the drill holes.
i had slotted rotors on my old corolla and i autocrossed it with great results. no fading!
so i would recomend the slotted only ones.
im actually going upgrade to slotted rotors soon for my 93...
as soon as i find some nice 2nd gen 4piston calipers.
drilled rotors is for better cooling
slotted is for better contact between pad and rotor.
(under breaking, pads usually build up a coat of film on the surface,
and the slots just scrape off the film for better contact.)
the slots do help cool the rotor quite a bit, but not as much as the drilled rotors.
imo no street car needs drilled. if you track often then sure, go for it.
plus, ive had a few friends that have cracked their rotors because of the drill holes.
i had slotted rotors on my old corolla and i autocrossed it with great results. no fading!
so i would recomend the slotted only ones.
im actually going upgrade to slotted rotors soon for my 93...
as soon as i find some nice 2nd gen 4piston calipers.
06-15-06, 05:15 PM
#3
I am looking at them also. I like the idea of the rotor running cooler - brake pads will last longer and the overall system should work more efficiently. I run ThermoQuiet pads all around and they keep the wheels clear - no brake dust. If you decide on a rotor set please let me know what you chose. There are hundreds out there.
06-16-06, 04:28 AM
#5
When these warp, very few shops will resurface them as it plays hell on their tools.
As long as you are prepared to spend the $$$ to replace them everytime they warp, go get them.
Where I used to live in a small mountain town with a lot of rain, your rotors could warp every month!!!! It was crazy.
As long as you are prepared to spend the $$$ to replace them everytime they warp, go get them.
Where I used to live in a small mountain town with a lot of rain, your rotors could warp every month!!!! It was crazy.
06-16-06, 11:09 AM
#6
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by ychachad
When these warp, very few shops will resurface them as it plays hell on their tools.
As long as you are prepared to spend the $$$ to replace them everytime they warp, go get them.
Where I used to live in a small mountain town with a lot of rain, your rotors could warp every month!!!! It was crazy.
As long as you are prepared to spend the $$$ to replace them everytime they warp, go get them.
Where I used to live in a small mountain town with a lot of rain, your rotors could warp every month!!!! It was crazy.
06-16-06, 09:42 PM
#7
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by Lexkost
I have been running cross drilled for over 4years and have them turned once and I will never go back to stock rotors,mine have held up very well, just make sure that you run ceramic pads.
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06-20-06, 03:52 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Lexkost
I have been running cross drilled for over 4years and have them turned once and I will never go back to stock rotors,mine have held up very well, just make sure that you run ceramic pads.
06-21-06, 10:49 PM
#9
Intermediate
Just wanted to correct a statement that was made on here...
Drilling is not for cooling and doesnt help cooling at all but actually was implemented initially for more effectively releasing the gases that were produced in hard braking. Modern pads do not create enough gases to cause that problem.
Another thing to consider though is that with drilled and slotted rotors, your pads will go really quickly as the holes actually chew through your pads.
I will admit that drilled does look really good though.
As said before, slotted is the better way to go.
Check out this site for some good info...
Drilling is not for cooling and doesnt help cooling at all but actually was implemented initially for more effectively releasing the gases that were produced in hard braking. Modern pads do not create enough gases to cause that problem.
Another thing to consider though is that with drilled and slotted rotors, your pads will go really quickly as the holes actually chew through your pads.
I will admit that drilled does look really good though.
As said before, slotted is the better way to go.
Check out this site for some good info...
06-22-06, 11:19 AM
#10
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by dfkd
Just wanted to correct a statement that was made on here...
Drilling is not for cooling and doesnt help cooling at all but actually was implemented initially for more effectively releasing the gases that were produced in hard braking. Modern pads do not create enough gases to cause that problem.
Another thing to consider though is that with drilled and slotted rotors, your pads will go really quickly as the holes actually chew through your pads.
I will admit that drilled does look really good though.
As said before, slotted is the better way to go.
Check out this site for some good info...
Drilling is not for cooling and doesnt help cooling at all but actually was implemented initially for more effectively releasing the gases that were produced in hard braking. Modern pads do not create enough gases to cause that problem.
Another thing to consider though is that with drilled and slotted rotors, your pads will go really quickly as the holes actually chew through your pads.
I will admit that drilled does look really good though.
As said before, slotted is the better way to go.
Check out this site for some good info...
Also my front rotors are OEM that where custom drill for me, I believeI have been running crossed drill on a 2nd gen LS longer than anybody on CL , ..........But to each his own ......
06-23-06, 08:12 PM
#11
If you are considering a brake upgrade, I would not get slotted or cross drilled rotars. I would go with a supra tt upgrade. I have had slotted rotars for a couple of years and for the most part they are fine, but they are a bit louder when hard stopping, and somtimes vibrate and wobble. The stock system is designed well for the stock set up, maintaning the "LS quite ride" if you are not "racing" around the stock rotars are great for driving and I have not seen a post yet on stock brake failure. If you have upgraded your wheels to a larger size and want to compensate for "unsprung" weight, then get the larger supra tt brake system. Sure the slotted/cross drilled look cool, but so does a big a$$ rotar.
06-28-06, 09:53 PM
#12
Lexus Test Driver
Most premature warping problems can be traced back to inferior quality rotors to start with. There are only a handful of companies that use good rotors. In this case, OEM is probably one of the best, and everyone else has to just try to keep up. Drilling or slotting or whatever really doesn't contribute, in fact if anything it will alleviate warping since it runs at a lower temperature (in theory at least).
Other issues that cause warping can be not even warping at all, but deposits on the rotors either from contamination from someone on the road getting on there, or using crappy pads that distribute material unevenly. This can be fixed with a good bedding session and some new pads.
An overly aggressive pad will also cause premature rotor wear, but most of the time people don't have pads like this. Ceramic based pads will give off less dust, and sometimes they will also increase braking performance to some degree.
A very very general rule of thumb is the more dust it makes, it will bite better, but also wear out your rotors faster too.
Note that pads also need to be bedded in or broken in, which opens a whole new can of worms if you don't do this.
Other issues that cause warping can be not even warping at all, but deposits on the rotors either from contamination from someone on the road getting on there, or using crappy pads that distribute material unevenly. This can be fixed with a good bedding session and some new pads.
An overly aggressive pad will also cause premature rotor wear, but most of the time people don't have pads like this. Ceramic based pads will give off less dust, and sometimes they will also increase braking performance to some degree.
A very very general rule of thumb is the more dust it makes, it will bite better, but also wear out your rotors faster too.
Note that pads also need to be bedded in or broken in, which opens a whole new can of worms if you don't do this.
06-29-06, 02:24 AM
#15
Lexus Test Driver
oops sorry thought you said new pads
you can probably get by without in your case, although there will be some contamination with the initial oil and other stuff that is on the new rotor.
you can probably get by without in your case, although there will be some contamination with the initial oil and other stuff that is on the new rotor.