TUTORIAL: DIY Front Rotor Change on UCF20/21 (95-00) LS400
#19
I have used TRW products for over 30 years, in my automotive center, until I retired in 96.
http://www.trwauto.com/who_we_are/history
http://www.trwauto.com/who_we_are/history
#20
http://www.dba.com.au/dimensions
I read a few post a long time ago and a dimension was provided. It's just a little shorter than the supra.
#21
look on R1concepts.com for the rotor you need and look in the images part, they have spec sheets for all their stock rotors. please stop cluttering this thread with unrelated issues.
#22
ok.. i read over everything. Im having an ishue. the two screws for step 1, they are not coming out at all. they only turn about 1/4 turn then stop. both screws are starting to strip on the heads cus they are not moving.
another ishue is i got duralast rotors and they dont have the holes for thoes screws or for the 2 barrowed bolts. so im also wandering if thies duralast rotors will even work? idk how they would stay on other than the wheel holding it on.
BTW, these are the rear brakes I am talking about.
another ishue is i got duralast rotors and they dont have the holes for thoes screws or for the 2 barrowed bolts. so im also wandering if thies duralast rotors will even work? idk how they would stay on other than the wheel holding it on.
BTW, these are the rear brakes I am talking about.
Last edited by ocr; 04-18-12 at 09:44 AM. Reason: i suck at spelling
#23
i use an impact driver to remove those bolts that hold the rotor to the hub. it prevents stripping as you pound it out using a hammer (in my case, mini sledge). i never use a regular screwdriver. spray some PB Blaster or WD40 to loosen the threads.
NOTE: this was on my honda but the principle remains. you can see the sledge in the background.
as for the duralast rotors you received, they sound like they are floating rotors which is a normal design. newer lexus and toyota vehicles run a floating rotor. it will not fall out as the caliper will hold it on, plus the wheel makes it square as you tighten. this is normal...for the front.
but...i would return your rotors and get the proper rotor that has the provision for the bolts. the rear does have a drum brake in it, and i don't think a floating rotor is appropriate for this. this is what i would do!
NOTE: this was on my honda but the principle remains. you can see the sledge in the background.
as for the duralast rotors you received, they sound like they are floating rotors which is a normal design. newer lexus and toyota vehicles run a floating rotor. it will not fall out as the caliper will hold it on, plus the wheel makes it square as you tighten. this is normal...for the front.
but...i would return your rotors and get the proper rotor that has the provision for the bolts. the rear does have a drum brake in it, and i don't think a floating rotor is appropriate for this. this is what i would do!
#26
Did this on my rears today fully expecting a fight with the rotors. Once I removed the screws, they came right out!
I used a drill with a screw bit to get the screws out. It's impossible to get them out by hand without stripping them.
I used a drill with a screw bit to get the screws out. It's impossible to get them out by hand without stripping them.
Last edited by GKLCPA; 02-02-13 at 04:25 PM.
#27
I couldnt find a DIY or Tutorial on replacing rear brake pads. I have a question about doing it because all I need to do with my rear pads is replacing the fitting kit. I was wondering how do i go about doing this, and what tools would i need to do so? This is my first time doing it since I just got the money to purchase all the basic tools i need. Any help would be helpful.
UPDATE: so i decided to take a look at the LexLS website and found the DIY for the rear brake job. IIRC only the front caliper design was changed on the UCF20 compared to the UCF10. Can i just follow those procedures for the rear brake pad job? so all i would need is to get a brake piston compression tool and no need for a brake bleeding kit?
UPDATE: so i decided to take a look at the LexLS website and found the DIY for the rear brake job. IIRC only the front caliper design was changed on the UCF20 compared to the UCF10. Can i just follow those procedures for the rear brake pad job? so all i would need is to get a brake piston compression tool and no need for a brake bleeding kit?
Last edited by MValentine; 07-03-13 at 12:17 AM. Reason: found additional information
#28
I couldnt find a DIY or Tutorial on replacing rear brake pads. I have a question about doing it because all I need to do with my rear pads is replacing the fitting kit. I was wondering how do i go about doing this, and what tools would i need to do so? This is my first time doing it since I just got the money to purchase all the basic tools i need. Any help would be helpful.
UPDATE: so i decided to take a look at the LexLS website and found the DIY for the rear brake job. IIRC only the front caliper design was changed on the UCF20 compared to the UCF10. Can i just follow those procedures for the rear brake pad job? so all i would need is to get a brake piston compression tool and no need for a brake bleeding kit?
UPDATE: so i decided to take a look at the LexLS website and found the DIY for the rear brake job. IIRC only the front caliper design was changed on the UCF20 compared to the UCF10. Can i just follow those procedures for the rear brake pad job? so all i would need is to get a brake piston compression tool and no need for a brake bleeding kit?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post