projman

Recently, I was doing some front suspension work and noticed my front brake pads were getting a little thin. I've done lots of brake jobs on various other cars but the 98 LS looks very unusual. I didn't spend a lot of time looking at the setup but it appears you don't have to remove the caliper to replace the pads. Is this true? And if so, how do you (or do you need to) compress the piston to allow for the thicker pads? Also, what pads would you recommend? Thanks.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

Yes, you have to remove the caliper in order to change the pads.

Yes, you have to compress the caliper piston(s) when you do so (use pry bar and 2x4 )

its pretty straightforward, look at my rotor swap tutorial for a more detailed outline.

mobilyte

iTrader: (3)

projman, you are correct, you do not have to remove the calipers to install new pads. check out the photos on lextreme's tutorial, your 98LS calipers are very similar in design as the supra tt calipers http://www.lextreme.com/lsbrake.html

use a c-clamp to compress your pistons, it wont require a lot of force. not a real bright idea to use a pry bar, since you'll end up using your rotor or caliper housing as the rigid body for leverage.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

this is true

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

personally id take the rotor off and have it resurfaced if i was going to put new pads in, only costs like $8-10 per rotor and is a lot better for bedding in new pards.

Lexiss_sc430

iTrader: (2)

That’s unnecessary unless it needs to be resurfaced. Typical rotors can only endure one *maybe 2* very thin resurfacings and so if you resurface your rotors every time you do a break job, you'd have to get new rotors every 2 brake jobs.

And you do not need to remove the calipers...

All you need is;

Needle nose pliers
Flat head screw driver (smaller)
A big flat head screw driver/crow bar to press the piston back into place
And new pads!!

It shouldn’t take you more than 15 min of each side...

It takes me 5-10 min to do mine. (Each side of course)

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

our rotors can go thru a LOT more than 2 resurfacings unless your rotors were HORRIBLY warped. the rotors on my 95 have been surfaced at least 3-4 times before i bought the car and still have a decent bit of metal left on them.

in the end its personal choice, oem replacement rotors are fairly cheap for the LS (brembo @ TR for <$70 each) but its $16 for me to resurface a pair and cheap insurance that the new pads will bed in properly.

Lexiss_sc430

iTrader: (2)

True, to each his own,

projman it just depends on how much time and effort you want to put in it, now this doesn’t mean cut corners, but if u need the rotors re surfaced then of course you’ll need to remove the calipers.
If not then it will take you a few minutes to do you're brakes!

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

i found that removing the calipers is the same amount of work as removing the pads since in essense its just removing 2 bolts.

Lexiss_sc430

iTrader: (2)

yes but the key is convince and the tools required, the way I do it you only need the most basic tools and a few minutes. You could change the brakes with one flat-head screwdriver if need be. But for some people on this forum who don’t have a garage like some of us here don’t have the luxury of having an array of tools at their disposal. I believe you’ll need a 14mm socket for the bolts, some type of hammer to break loose the bolts loose or a longer pipe to gain leverage, you’ll also need a clamp, because once the caliper is off the car you cant use the rotor as leverage to push in the piston you’ll need a clamp. So its just makes it that much harder for a person who must do this in a parking lot or in a not so mechanic/time friendly environment to complete the task.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

well to put new pads in either way you need to push the pistons back in...i like to use the old pad+small pipe/pry bar.

its a 14mm socket and WD40. also, a single screw is all you need to loosen the rotor.

projman

Thanks for the input. My rotors do not need turned so I'll stick with the easy method. Lexiss - you are right, I cannot imagine trying to service my own cars without the proper tools. Oh sure, sometimes you have to be creative. When changing my lat strut bushings, an adjustable puller and a brass hammer worked great to seperate the UCA from the knuckle. I wasn't about to run out and buy the SST. Anyway, my new pads showed up yesterday so I'll be getting this job done soon. Thanks again for your help.