Strut replacement
#3
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I just did all 4 struts this past weekend on my 1990 @152m. I would suggest sticking with OEM if your car is a keeper. I went the value route with the KYB GR2s which are much cheaper. Ebay sellers have the GR2s routinely for $210-$250 for all four. KYB makes both the OEM and the GR2s, but the OEM are valved to be a softer ride. Also the lower bushing looks beefier on the OEM versus the GR2. You'll need other costly parts also. On Gen 1 cars, you'll need shock mounts ($100 dealer, $50 ebay) and spring insulator/boots ($30 each, dealer only).
glenmore
1990 LS400
glenmore
1990 LS400
#4
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I don't think I would mind the stiffer ride...but can't find the gr2 for the pricing you mentioned...-glenmore-
i will keep searching ebay and other avenues. thanks
i will keep searching ebay and other avenues. thanks
#6
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u pay for what u get
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Search all ebay not just on the auto side. Search "Lexus ls400 kyb strut" and you'll find a few sellers. If you are in a hurry, you may pay a little more, but most sellers have several sets.
I've driven on the GR2s for a few days now and although the only other experience of driving the car was with OEM shocks that were pretty much gone, i.e. a very soft pillowy ride, I have to agree with others that the ride is pretty firm. I do have 17" wheels though and this probably adds to the firmness but this was not too noticeable with the worn shocks. Hope they settle down some. The ride on smooth pavement is very nice though. Much steadier on turns and no more brake dip and acceleration squat.
glenmore
1990 LS400
I've driven on the GR2s for a few days now and although the only other experience of driving the car was with OEM shocks that were pretty much gone, i.e. a very soft pillowy ride, I have to agree with others that the ride is pretty firm. I do have 17" wheels though and this probably adds to the firmness but this was not too noticeable with the worn shocks. Hope they settle down some. The ride on smooth pavement is very nice though. Much steadier on turns and no more brake dip and acceleration squat.
glenmore
1990 LS400
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#8
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i found a set close, like 65/strut
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-G...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-G...spagenameZWDVW
that is for 90 thru 94
mine is a 95
#11
I just wanted to report my strut replacement experience. OMG. I don't want to do it again. Nothing would take the bottom nuts off of the strut except fire. I lube the nuts and bolts daily for 2 weeks while impact wrenching it (735 ft/lb reverse). Nothing. The nuts are almost rounded. I had to torch the shtt out of it. I hope I didn't ruin the upper control arm ball joints.
Rust from MN road done this. All the suspension links are rusted tight. Damn. I also ruin my rear swaybar link. More money. I think I'm going to drive until all the control arms or whatever they're called falls off....
Rust from MN road done this. All the suspension links are rusted tight. Damn. I also ruin my rear swaybar link. More money. I think I'm going to drive until all the control arms or whatever they're called falls off....
#12
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I just wanted to report my strut replacement experience. OMG. I don't want to do it again. Nothing would take the bottom nuts off of the strut except fire. I lube the nuts and bolts daily for 2 weeks while impact wrenching it (735 ft/lb reverse). Nothing. The nuts are almost rounded. I had to torch the shtt out of it. I hope I didn't ruin the upper control arm ball joints.
Rust from MN road done this. All the suspension links are rusted tight. Damn. I also ruin my rear swaybar link. More money. I think I'm going to drive until all the control arms or whatever they're called falls off....
Rust from MN road done this. All the suspension links are rusted tight. Damn. I also ruin my rear swaybar link. More money. I think I'm going to drive until all the control arms or whatever they're called falls off....
i used my electric impact wrench and a 3ft breaker bar the only nuts i had issues with were the castle nuts that held the front upper balljoint together had to order new ones of those >.>
didnt have to take much off at all in the rear, driveshaft, or even the balljoints
#13
Well, the boots on the sway bar links are torn to begin with and gotten worse by the bolt I hammered from the front side. I'm hoping that I can find a universal boots to fit. I didn't take anything else off just pure sweat and muscle to lift the strut, suspension, moving them both around to get it out and back in. I was sweating like a hog in an 80% humidity. Lots of racheting to compress the spring, both manually and compress air. Had to redo the spring a few times because the 3 bolts at the top that mount to the body didn't lineup. I didn't think a head.
Now I got both struts in the rear in. I had to replace one rounded off nut. The other one and the bolts seem to be ok so I reuse them. Should be good for another 50k miles if the car and the KYB last that long.
The front is next, after I get the sway bar link fix.
Now I got both struts in the rear in. I had to replace one rounded off nut. The other one and the bolts seem to be ok so I reuse them. Should be good for another 50k miles if the car and the KYB last that long.
The front is next, after I get the sway bar link fix.
#15
This is rear struts.
I didn't take anything off beside the strut. Sway bar link is more of an accidental case. I compressed the spring, removed the strut nut and bolt(yikes), removed the 3 strut mount bolts. When it all comes loose, wiggle the bottom portion of the strut to either side of the drive shaft (back side is easier on driver side), and more wiggling until it slide down and the top spring hit you in the forehead. Lots of grunt, swear, and sweat.
Putting new struts in is much easier. Do the reverse. Get on your knees, one hand holding and pushing up the strut-compressed-spring assembly while the other hand moving the axle up and down. Make sure the 3 strut mount bolts are align fairly close to the holes before compressing the spring. I hope that help
I didn't take anything off beside the strut. Sway bar link is more of an accidental case. I compressed the spring, removed the strut nut and bolt(yikes), removed the 3 strut mount bolts. When it all comes loose, wiggle the bottom portion of the strut to either side of the drive shaft (back side is easier on driver side), and more wiggling until it slide down and the top spring hit you in the forehead. Lots of grunt, swear, and sweat.
Putting new struts in is much easier. Do the reverse. Get on your knees, one hand holding and pushing up the strut-compressed-spring assembly while the other hand moving the axle up and down. Make sure the 3 strut mount bolts are align fairly close to the holes before compressing the spring. I hope that help