Daizen Bushings for 2gen LS, any update
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Daizen Bushings for 2gen LS, any update
hello, its been quite a while since i checked their web site for info, it seems that theres none so far any info on the availability of replacement bushing for the 2gen LS, specially the upper control arm for the front, anybody has a contact with daizen lately, pls post
also down under in Australia theres a few manufacturers out there vlamos is one any compatibility and availability for bushings on the 2nd gen LS or Celsior 95-00 pls als post info, thanks
also down under in Australia theres a few manufacturers out there vlamos is one any compatibility and availability for bushings on the 2nd gen LS or Celsior 95-00 pls als post info, thanks
#3
Not sure if these would interest you. I think Carson gets them from Armstrong? I am not familiar with the Daizen bushings and not sure if Carson's would be a significant upgrade over rubber OEM (maybe they would sqeak).
Take a look:
http://www.l-tunedparts.com/product/?id=1903
The challenge with the CA's is that the ball joint that attaches to the steering knuckles probably doesn't last too much longer than the bushing (75-80K miles) itself. Upgrading to polyurethane bushings to me makes sense thwhen you replace the CA itself. What do you think?
Take a look:
http://www.l-tunedparts.com/product/?id=1903
The challenge with the CA's is that the ball joint that attaches to the steering knuckles probably doesn't last too much longer than the bushing (75-80K miles) itself. Upgrading to polyurethane bushings to me makes sense thwhen you replace the CA itself. What do you think?
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
@steveski, so did you buy them and installed it, so how was it, replacing the bushing control arms is ok if your ball joint where the steering knuckle connect is also in good shape if not then just replacing the bushing will do no good
#5
You are correct that replacing bushings with a worn ball joint (upper CA) makes no sense. I am replacing my CA's with new ones and buying 2 Carson CA bushing kits so I will start with a fresh CA and polyeurethane bushings. You have to press the bushings in with a vise or c clamp. It is easy to do yourself especially since the work is all done just getting the CA off
#7
I have the the bushings already (bought them a while ago and am waiting on the CA's to arrive. I will PM you when I am finished so you can hear how the process went. The only special tool you need is a pitman arm puller (cost $15) or you can rent one at your local parts shop.
The only negative I hear about poly bushings is you have to lubricate them - I will do it for better performance and durability over rubber though.
The only negative I hear about poly bushings is you have to lubricate them - I will do it for better performance and durability over rubber though.
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#8
Driver
Thread Starter
@steveski, thanks and one more question, did you buy a new UCA from the dealer or aftermarket UCA
also just a thought while everthing is disassemble lower ball joint along with the lower control arm inspection might be helpful, which i think bushings are available
also just a thought while everthing is disassemble lower ball joint along with the lower control arm inspection might be helpful, which i think bushings are available
#9
For the CA I went aftermarket ($275 each - ). I didn't change my lower CA bushing but will this time. I am doing it myself and here is the break down:
2 lower CA poly's $30 each = $60
2 upper CA's $275 each = $550
Upper Poly set $52.50 each = $105
Strut rod poly bushing $34.50 each = $69
Total = $784 (case of beer optional)
To have it done would probably take 4-5 hours or more in labor so I like to do it myself.
Maybe if you do all this you could change lower ball joints also since they seem to last under 100k miles for most.
2 lower CA poly's $30 each = $60
2 upper CA's $275 each = $550
Upper Poly set $52.50 each = $105
Strut rod poly bushing $34.50 each = $69
Total = $784 (case of beer optional)
To have it done would probably take 4-5 hours or more in labor so I like to do it myself.
Maybe if you do all this you could change lower ball joints also since they seem to last under 100k miles for most.
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
@steveski, where did you get all these, any web site links, any particular auto parts store, phone number, also part numbers, if you can share, and dont mind and for the rest of members info, thanks
#12
For the bushings they are from Carson - aka L-tuned parts. They are Poly bushings so you have to remove old rubber and press them in with a vise or clamp. They give you better performance and last longer than rubber.
For the CA's her is a link (OEM costs $414 each and aftermarket is $275 ):
http://www.*****************.com/cpw...1&make_code=LX
When I do it I will definitely take photos for a tutorial this time. I didn't do it for springs/struts and wish I did to help folks out.
For the CA's her is a link (OEM costs $414 each and aftermarket is $275 ):
http://www.*****************.com/cpw...1&make_code=LX
When I do it I will definitely take photos for a tutorial this time. I didn't do it for springs/struts and wish I did to help folks out.
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