LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Reached the end of the road with my vibration

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Old 09-06-07, 06:06 PM
  #16  
PureDrifter
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id say replace the trans mount first, and INSPECT the rear driveshaft bushing.
Old 09-06-07, 06:11 PM
  #17  
sonyman
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
id say replace the trans mount first, and INSPECT the rear driveshaft bushing.
The problem with inspecting the rear flexible coupling is that most of the time when they are worn, the cracks are covered up by the flanges for both the propshaft and the carrier. I'll look into replacing the transmission mount the next time I go into work and can get some pricing information.
Old 09-06-07, 10:53 PM
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Klierslc
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Are you guys serious?

I find it really, really hard to believe that you can't buy a replacement U joint for this application. However, I am new to the car so I don't know.

I do know that my U joint needs to be replaced, and it doesn't look like a big job.

I would start with that Joint, it is a consumable item, and likely costs less than 50 bucks. all this other stuff might help, but you described a drivetrain vibe, not a suspension vibe.

My recommendation is to check out the joint and the driveshaft, and then the half shafts at the rear axle.
Old 09-07-07, 08:53 AM
  #19  
sonyman
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Originally Posted by Klierslc
Are you guys serious?

I find it really, really hard to believe that you can't buy a replacement U joint for this application. However, I am new to the car so I don't know.

I do know that my U joint needs to be replaced, and it doesn't look like a big job.

I would start with that Joint, it is a consumable item, and likely costs less than 50 bucks. all this other stuff might help, but you described a drivetrain vibe, not a suspension vibe.

My recommendation is to check out the joint and the driveshaft, and then the half shafts at the rear axle.
The labor on replacing the u-joint is what kills at independent shops. However, Lexus dealerships, or at least my local one, replace to whole driveshaft assembly rather than the u-joint.
Old 09-07-07, 10:21 PM
  #20  
Klierslc
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If you have a hammer and a socket set, you can change out that U joint. If you don't want to tackle it, save on labor by pulling the shaft yourself and take it to a driveline shop. They will have the joint replaced and the shaft balanced in about 40 minutes.(and that's if they take their time)

I seriously doubt this has anything to do with any suspension component, but the tranny mount *could* cause this problem. It would have to be REALLY loose/deteriorated though.

Good luck getting it figured out....

Dan
Old 09-10-07, 12:51 PM
  #21  
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Well I did a little digging at work. Apparently the piece that joins the 2 propeller shaft segments is not a u-joint, but rather a center support bearing. Also, the propeller shaft assembly, part 37100-50030 includes the 2 segments, the center bearing, as well as both flexible couplings. The list price is $845.14, but I can get it for a bit less than that as an employee. It's 3 hours labor to install, but again, that shouldn't hit me that hard thanks to my discount. It will still be a large financial hit, but if this is what it comes to, then so be it. I saved a few dollars for a rainy day. I will try to get the technician to inspect the driveline and mount once more to be safe.
Old 09-10-07, 01:12 PM
  #22  
LiCelsior
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there are a couple of reasons for vibration, ill give u some from a book of mine, not all apply to you but just giving some info.

wheel balancing
tire or wheel run out
wheel or axle bearings
brake rotor or drum balancing
damaged drive shaft or U-joints
drive line balance: (drive line balance is vehicle speed sensitive and sometimes will torque sensitive. this means the vibration is controlled by the speed and also can be affected by the throttle).

engine balance: (engine unbalance is engine speed sensitive and will occur at different vehicle speeds depending on the gear used, and it will go away while the vehicle is coasting in neutral).
Old 09-10-07, 02:31 PM
  #23  
Klierslc
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Here is a page from the FSM.

There is clearly a U joint, or spider joint for the technically picky.

There is probably nothing wrong with the shaft pieces. Replacing them is a waste of money.


However, after looking at the FSM, I'd probably replace the couplings and the center bearing too. The center bearing is probably not worn out, (it would be making noise if it was) but it is set in a rubber mount which can get loose after awhile.
Attached Thumbnails Reached the end of the road with my vibration-fsm-page.jpg  
Old 09-10-07, 02:47 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Klierslc
Here is a page from the FSM.

There is clearly a U joint, or spider joint for the technically picky.

There is probably nothing wrong with the shaft pieces. Replacing them is a waste of money.


However, after looking at the FSM, I'd probably replace the couplings and the center bearing too. The center bearing is probably not worn out, (it would be making noise if it was) but it is set in a rubber mount which can get loose after awhile.
is that really a FSM???

mine never had any typos
Old 09-10-07, 04:17 PM
  #25  
sonyman
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
is that really a FSM???

mine never had any typos
I have seen my fair share of pages, and believe me, it's littered with typos.

My propshaft segments may be out of balance, which is why it's been suggested that I replace them. Besides, the dealership doesn't replace the center bearing and having a mechanic do it might not be cost effective since I get a discount at the dealership.
Old 09-10-07, 08:56 PM
  #26  
Klierslc
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
is that really a FSM???

mine never had any typos
Yup, straight from TIS.

There seem to be plenty of typos, and not only in this manual.
Old 09-29-07, 02:56 PM
  #27  
sonyman
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For anyone awaiting progress, I ordered the propeller shaft assembly today. I should be able to get it installed by the end of October, hopefully sooner.
Old 09-29-07, 09:46 PM
  #28  
Klierslc
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I was wrong about the U-joint. You might be able to get the old one out and find one that would fit, but the yokes are crimped in with a press, so reinstalling without a press would be near impossible.
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