which cluster caps for 92 gas gauge??
#1
which cluster caps for 92 gas gauge??
hi all,
i think i've read everything there is and no info is given as to which caps on the cluster are to be replaced for a bad 92 gas gauge.... can anyone help?? it's now apart on my kitchen table and no caps listed on all the threads for the 93-94 are the same... (as lexls points out). thanks.
i think i've read everything there is and no info is given as to which caps on the cluster are to be replaced for a bad 92 gas gauge.... can anyone help?? it's now apart on my kitchen table and no caps listed on all the threads for the 93-94 are the same... (as lexls points out). thanks.
#3
LiCelsior
that is for the 93-94, i have a 92. there is no c142, etc... in fact there are no caps numbered higher than about 30 or so and none of them match the specs in the threads for the 93-94 cluster.
that is for the 93-94, i have a 92. there is no c142, etc... in fact there are no caps numbered higher than about 30 or so and none of them match the specs in the threads for the 93-94 cluster.
#4
Ok, I found my notes on this. I **think** C12 (25v 47uf) is the main cap for the fuel gauge on 90-92 clusters. C16 (10v 100uf) also may have something to do with the fuel gauge. This is just from testing the caps I pulled to see if they were out of spec and C12 was the furthest from spec. I replaced all the caps on my boards so I can't say for sure. Let me know if these are truely the ticket!
#5
thanks again-- however, i've looked at the C12 and C16 and they are very very small ceramic disk (which are not polarized) and the specs on your post say they 47 uf and 100 uf caps. these would be much bigger and probably electrolytic, yes? (which are polarized) could it be that you meant to type 47 micro micro farads (.047 uf) and (.100 uf)? this would make sense with the size of C12 and C16. otherwise, the radial types that are that much capacitance are MUCH bigger, etc...
the problem is that the little C12 and C16 don't have specs on them.... thanks again for your help.
john
the problem is that the little C12 and C16 don't have specs on them.... thanks again for your help.
john
#6
thanks again-- however, i've looked at the C12 and C16 and they are very very small ceramic disk (which are not polarized) and the specs on your post say they 47 uf and 100 uf caps. these would be much bigger and probably electrolytic, yes? (which are polarized) could it be that you meant to type 47 micro micro farads (.047 uf) and (.100 uf)? this would make sense with the size of C12 and C16. otherwise, the radial types that are that much capacitance are MUCH bigger, etc...
the problem is that the little C12 and C16 don't have specs on them.... thanks again for your help.
john
the problem is that the little C12 and C16 don't have specs on them.... thanks again for your help.
john
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#8
well, the saga continues-- i think i'll start a new thread as my problem is different now, but i replaced the caps below and something is different. the gauge was at about 3/4, then i went to fill up and it took 12 gas or so. right after filling and starting up, the gauge slowly moved up to WAY past full. so it's possible the guage is working? but now it's not calibrated or something... thoughts anyone?
thanks.
thanks.
#9
I think that proves those caps have to do with the fuel gauge. Now you're going to have to pull the cluster out again, then gently move the needle to just a hair past the full line. It sounds like it may have been bumped or something. All of the needles can get messed up like this and be "off." At least the gauge is moving!
#10
i'm going to check the sender tonite to be sure.
so... to reconfirm-- one can 'move' the needle? you've seen that before? i'm not sure how that could have gotten moved? and i wasn't brave enough to tear into the actual guage-- do i just take off the tinted cover and moved it? thanks again.
so... to reconfirm-- one can 'move' the needle? you've seen that before? i'm not sure how that could have gotten moved? and i wasn't brave enough to tear into the actual guage-- do i just take off the tinted cover and moved it? thanks again.
#13
Thanks for asking...
It's odd, so far. i've tested the resistance of the sender according to FSM and it seems fine. meaning i check it every day after burning some fuel and resistance is going up as it should. i've not tested it for voltage, but planned to today. i'm checking it first before taking out the guage and moving the needle, but after using 7.5 gal., it's still pegged 1/4 past full. here's what's odd...
exact order of first repair:
gauge read 3/4 full.
did the cap fix and put gauge back in- it still read 3/4 full.
i put in 12 gal. and it pegged 1/4 past full.
so, it's as if the cap fix wasn't the reason for the overfull reading... the fill up did it, which is why i'm checking the sender.
but.... if it is the needle and it's that far off, one would think that after i burn 12 gal. it should go back to where it was= 3/4. that should be about thurs= thanksgiving.
i'm trying to do this methodically and get a repeatable scenario and also confirm the sender's ok before doing anything else. does the above sound reasonable?
It's odd, so far. i've tested the resistance of the sender according to FSM and it seems fine. meaning i check it every day after burning some fuel and resistance is going up as it should. i've not tested it for voltage, but planned to today. i'm checking it first before taking out the guage and moving the needle, but after using 7.5 gal., it's still pegged 1/4 past full. here's what's odd...
exact order of first repair:
gauge read 3/4 full.
did the cap fix and put gauge back in- it still read 3/4 full.
i put in 12 gal. and it pegged 1/4 past full.
so, it's as if the cap fix wasn't the reason for the overfull reading... the fill up did it, which is why i'm checking the sender.
but.... if it is the needle and it's that far off, one would think that after i burn 12 gal. it should go back to where it was= 3/4. that should be about thurs= thanksgiving.
i'm trying to do this methodically and get a repeatable scenario and also confirm the sender's ok before doing anything else. does the above sound reasonable?
#14
Yeah, when I replaced mine it didn't change when I put it back in the car. It simply made the needle go all the way up when I filled up. Your needle is obviously not calibrated correctly. Why? If your gauge read 3/4 and you were able to put in 12 gal then it should go way past full, 12 gal is over half a tank of gas. So add half to 3/4 and the needle is 1/4 past F, just as you found out. Just fill up and then move the needle to the correct position, call it a day.
#15
Thanks Lex and I understand what you're saying and agree. And I will probabaly end up doing as you say, but I've now burned 12 gal ( i know b/c i always get 19mgp) and the needle is still completely pegged at 1/4 over full. does not make sense...