LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

91 LS400. Cats glow red, won't rev, no power.

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Old 12-03-07, 09:38 AM
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UofACATS
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With the cats pulled the symptoms remain.




Nice DSM. 95 GSX daily.
Old 12-05-07, 09:53 AM
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I'm going to start looking at distributor cap and rotor, ignition coils, plugs, wires, and grounds.

Any recc's on replacing these items should they require it? Aftermarket OK, or OEM only? I suppose that goes for other items as well, generally should I stay with OEM parts?

Thanks
Old 12-05-07, 10:25 AM
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Also, I plan to re-install the cats and pull each o2 sensor replacing with a wideband to get idle AFR.

Will this automatically result in a CEL?

I expect a nice 14.7 at idle, what should I expect under cruise and WOT?

Thank you
Old 12-05-07, 12:59 PM
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bituerbo
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If your cat was blocked it was likely running rich.
I'd say replace your 02 sensors man - see where that gets you.
Old 12-05-07, 06:40 PM
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justfixit
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Your problem is one of your ignition coils not firing. Each coil fires 2 cylinders per cylinder head. If one of the coils go bad, you basically have a terrible running 4 cylinder engine. A catalytic converter will only glow red when it is fed with excessive unburned fuel. You have a rich condition. Faulty O2 sensors 99% of the time will go to 0volts which is lean. Your O2 sensors are probably ok. Check ignition coils (probably bank#1 next to a/c compressor) which usually gets hotter due to less air circulation.

Last edited by justfixit; 12-05-07 at 06:45 PM.
Old 12-06-07, 12:50 PM
  #21  
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From my time spent on iATN, this is also my theory. I have some shop time scheduled, we'll see. I hope (and think) you're right.

Thank you!
Old 12-07-07, 03:42 AM
  #22  
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99% its one of your coil packs. Usually the passenger goes out first. Had the same issue on the SC400.
Old 12-07-07, 08:23 AM
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Ordered a coil pack (will test both sides to detemine faulty unit) wire set, and plugs. Try to get to it today.

I looked briefly at the coil. Best way to access it?
Old 12-07-07, 12:44 PM
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Pulled the battery and hold-down hardware. Pulled various covers to access the spark plug wires. Pulled the wire to the coil, it was quite brittle and it snapped right away. Looks like the "extra heat" is real.
Old 12-07-07, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by UofACATS
Ordered a coil pack (will test both sides to detemine faulty unit) wire set, and plugs. Try to get to it today.

I looked briefly at the coil. Best way to access it?
Best way to test out the coil is to unplug it and see if anything is different. It also could be one of the wires.

You are correct though, its somewhat a pain in the rear to access the passenger side coil. I've done this so long ago, i really dotn remember how i did it exactly, sorry.
Old 12-08-07, 03:22 PM
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I should have waited for this response before I started tearing into the car! Really though I realized this halfway through, then one of my friends called and after a minute or two said the same thing. Oh well.

With the battery out, access to the coil is not bad. It's a 14mm on the firewall side and a 10mm on the other. Takes a good 5 minutes of frustration then it's out.
Old 12-22-07, 12:16 PM
  #27  
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Car runs.

Pulled the plugs. They read as burnt (not firing) and fine. I thought each side had its own coil and I was going to see one side completly fouled with fuel and one side completly burnt.

They came out as follows: Burnt, fine, fine, burnt. Other side: Fine, burnt, burnt, fine. Confusing until you look on AllData and see each coil fires two cylinders on each side. Replaced the plugs, coil, and wire set. Fired right up.

Open manifold V8 sounds good
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