Those that have to drive on snow and ice.
03-22-08, 10:32 PM
#16
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Location: NJ
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Also, I drive on Dunlop Winter Sport M3's. They are more aggressive than the Blizzaks (supposedly not as good in ice) but they drive well in dry and wet and do not MELT like Blizzaks do. Also...I think winters in NJ get worse than those in CA usually :P Just learn to drive the conditions and dont drive like an *** in the snow
03-27-08, 03:43 PM
#18
Lexus Champion
03-27-08, 03:49 PM
#19
Lexus Champion
Also, even after 50% tread depth, the tire will still perform well in snow, just not as well in ice.. Here's the description from TR:
The Blizzak WS60 features a dual-compound tread with Bridgestone's silica-enhanced Tube Multicell compound layered on top of a standard winter compound. The Tube Multicell compound is comprised of thousands of microscopic tubes and cells (which resemble the consistency of Swiss cheese when examined through a microscope) that wick away the water that often forms between the tire's contact patch and the surface of snow-packed and icy roads. This flexible tread rubber compound improves the tire's grip, allowing the biting edges to adhere to the surface with less interference. The bite particles attached to the tubes of the Multicell compound with a special coating, bite into the surface of packed snow and ice to provide extra gripping action. The pores and tubes are uniformly distributed throughout the compound and are constantly being exposed around the tread as the tire wears. This unique tread compound is molded into a directional tread design that features independent tread blocks with 3-D zigzag sipes to disperse water away from the tire's contact patch, further enhancing grip. The result is enhanced hydroplaning resistance and greater driving and braking force on snow-covered and icy roads. Featuring Bridgestone's UNI-T Technology, the Blizzak WS60's internal structure includes twin steel belts reinforced by spirally wound nylon to provide the desired high-speed durability and ride characteristics.
When the Blizzak WS60 is 50-percent worn, a tread depth indicator molded into the tread design lets the driver know that only 10 percent of the remaining tread is the Tube Multicell compound.
When the Blizzak WS60 is 50-percent worn, a tread depth indicator molded into the tread design lets the driver know that only 10 percent of the remaining tread is the Tube Multicell compound.
03-27-08, 05:26 PM
#20
I deal with this more than most i live in colorado woooo hooo lol but i also run snow tires on my stock wheels and am getting new wheels this summer for my 19's im getting as for the tc i always rolll with it on and it does great in snow. TC plus snow tires=amazing in snow for a RWD
03-28-08, 04:23 PM
#21
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I deal with this more than most i live in colorado woooo hooo lol but i also run snow tires on my stock wheels and am getting new wheels this summer for my 19's im getting as for the tc i always rolll with it on and it does great in snow. TC plus snow tires=amazing in snow for a RWD
07-22-08, 10:14 AM
#23
Never driven in the snow. Moving to STL, MO for a while for work, and taking the LS with me. Will be rolling 19inch 265 rear and 245 front. How bad will it be?
Advice appreciated. Can I get away without buying Blizzaks and so forth? Don't really want to haul the stock tire/wheel on my roadtrip.
Advice appreciated. Can I get away without buying Blizzaks and so forth? Don't really want to haul the stock tire/wheel on my roadtrip.
07-22-08, 11:27 AM
#24
Lexus Champion
Never driven in the snow. Moving to STL, MO for a while for work, and taking the LS with me. Will be rolling 19inch 265 rear and 245 front. How bad will it be?
Advice appreciated. Can I get away without buying Blizzaks and so forth? Don't really want to haul the stock tire/wheel on my roadtrip.
Advice appreciated. Can I get away without buying Blizzaks and so forth? Don't really want to haul the stock tire/wheel on my roadtrip.
With light snow here in Seattle, the car felt VERY unsafe even at 30-40 MPH. And the second I tried braking, ABS kicked in right away, and the car would always start rotating in a clockwise direction.
Going up the mountain was downright scary on my Yokohama Avid V4s (All season tires), and getting home one day when it snowed in downtown Seattle /Redmond area, was a little bit scary.
I decided to buy snow tires. After having a few scary moments where I tried to stop and had no control over it, I decided it was worth it.
My rationale was: snow tires were about $600. If I got into even a SMALL fender bender, paint work would almost certainly cost atleast that much.
07-22-08, 11:33 AM
#26
I'm going to tell you that it is going to be an issue. Especially with those wider wheels, I'm willing to bet you will have very little to zero traction. And if you have to get up a driveway or small hill in snow? Forget about it.
With light snow here in Seattle, the car felt VERY unsafe even at 30-40 MPH. And the second I tried braking, ABS kicked in right away, and the car would always start rotating in a clockwise direction.
Going up the mountain was downright scary on my Yokohama Avid V4s (All season tires), and getting home one day when it snowed in downtown Seattle /Redmond area, was a little bit scary.
I decided to buy snow tires. After having a few scary moments where I tried to stop and had no control over it, I decided it was worth it.
My rationale was: snow tires were about $600. If I got into even a SMALL fender bender, paint work would almost certainly cost atleast that much.
With light snow here in Seattle, the car felt VERY unsafe even at 30-40 MPH. And the second I tried braking, ABS kicked in right away, and the car would always start rotating in a clockwise direction.
Going up the mountain was downright scary on my Yokohama Avid V4s (All season tires), and getting home one day when it snowed in downtown Seattle /Redmond area, was a little bit scary.
I decided to buy snow tires. After having a few scary moments where I tried to stop and had no control over it, I decided it was worth it.
My rationale was: snow tires were about $600. If I got into even a SMALL fender bender, paint work would almost certainly cost atleast that much.
In any event, I will be living 3 miles from work in STL, MO.
I guess after I go there, have to order snow tire/wheels. Sigh.
07-22-08, 12:53 PM
#29
Lexus Champion
Chains are a pain in the ***, and they don't help you stop NEARLY as well as snow tires.
Even with chains on, when you brake, most of your brake force is applied at the front wheels. I found when traveling at 25-30mph, with chains on the rear tires, my ABS kicked in heavily, and the car wanted to turn clock wise.
I was coming down a highway, and I was scared that if traffic came to a sudden stop, I would have to decide wether I wanted to hit the guy infront of me, or scrub off speed on the barrier. Luckily, there were plenty of lanes and I was able to slow down by driving in a snow bank where my rear wheels had a lot more traction. The car still felt extremely wobbly.
Also, with chains on, get used to the noise, and that jingly feeling you get when you're sitting in a vibrating massage chair, but not in a good way
My suggestion: Just put some snow tires on your cheap 16s. Anothe rreason you don't want to deal with chains is that your car is sitting significantly lower, and it will be a pain in the butt to put them on, etc.
If you order your snow tires from tire rack and plan in advance, you can get them for $450 or so, and that's for the Bridgestone Blizzak WS-60, one of the best studless snow/ice tires out there.
Even with chains on, when you brake, most of your brake force is applied at the front wheels. I found when traveling at 25-30mph, with chains on the rear tires, my ABS kicked in heavily, and the car wanted to turn clock wise.
I was coming down a highway, and I was scared that if traffic came to a sudden stop, I would have to decide wether I wanted to hit the guy infront of me, or scrub off speed on the barrier. Luckily, there were plenty of lanes and I was able to slow down by driving in a snow bank where my rear wheels had a lot more traction. The car still felt extremely wobbly.
Also, with chains on, get used to the noise, and that jingly feeling you get when you're sitting in a vibrating massage chair, but not in a good way
My suggestion: Just put some snow tires on your cheap 16s. Anothe rreason you don't want to deal with chains is that your car is sitting significantly lower, and it will be a pain in the butt to put them on, etc.
If you order your snow tires from tire rack and plan in advance, you can get them for $450 or so, and that's for the Bridgestone Blizzak WS-60, one of the best studless snow/ice tires out there.
07-22-08, 12:55 PM
#30
Chains are a pain in the ***, and they don't help you stop NEARLY as well as snow tires.
Even with chains on, when you brake, most of your brake force is applied at the front wheels. I found when traveling at 25-30mph, with chains on the rear tires, my ABS kicked in heavily, and the car wanted to turn clock wise.
I was coming down a highway, and I was scared that if traffic came to a sudden stop, I would have to decide wether I wanted to hit the guy infront of me, or scrub off speed on the barrier. Luckily, there were plenty of lanes and I was able to slow down by driving in a snow bank where my rear wheels had a lot more traction. The car still felt extremely wobbly.
Also, with chains on, get used to the noise, and that jingly feeling you get when you're sitting in a vibrating massage chair, but not in a good way
My suggestion: Just put some snow tires on your cheap 16s. Anothe rreason you don't want to deal with chains is that your car is sitting significantly lower, and it will be a pain in the butt to put them on, etc.
If you order your snow tires from tire rack and plan in advance, you can get them for $450 or so, and that's for the Bridgestone Blizzak WS-60, one of the best studless snow/ice tires out there.
Even with chains on, when you brake, most of your brake force is applied at the front wheels. I found when traveling at 25-30mph, with chains on the rear tires, my ABS kicked in heavily, and the car wanted to turn clock wise.
I was coming down a highway, and I was scared that if traffic came to a sudden stop, I would have to decide wether I wanted to hit the guy infront of me, or scrub off speed on the barrier. Luckily, there were plenty of lanes and I was able to slow down by driving in a snow bank where my rear wheels had a lot more traction. The car still felt extremely wobbly.
Also, with chains on, get used to the noise, and that jingly feeling you get when you're sitting in a vibrating massage chair, but not in a good way
My suggestion: Just put some snow tires on your cheap 16s. Anothe rreason you don't want to deal with chains is that your car is sitting significantly lower, and it will be a pain in the butt to put them on, etc.
If you order your snow tires from tire rack and plan in advance, you can get them for $450 or so, and that's for the Bridgestone Blizzak WS-60, one of the best studless snow/ice tires out there.
OR
Buy a snow tire + wheel package from tire rack?
Thanks