19psi

you can order amsoil from summitracing for much less than any store sells it for, and they ship same day from ohio, so it will get to anywhere on the east coast in 2 days.

trukn1

I pass that place all the time when I am traveling through Ohio, on I-76. 2 days to ship or maybe a 1 hour drive to Anne Arundel County in MD,,,hmmmm,,,,,,where are my keys? LOL!!!!

Sixdown

I figured you can order Amsoil from their own site, and found that I was right. I'll try it out next week.

Bill Dowd

Go To Amsoil.com And You Can Buy The Oil And Have It Sent To Your House Anywhere In The Usa. I Haven't Heard Anything About Mobil Be Changed Only They Have Added The 15,000 Mile Oil Call Mobil One Extended Which I Use And My Lexus And It Runs Fine At 193,000 Miles.you Can Also Get A Small Pump At Any Auto Shop And Pump Out The Power Steering About 6 Time To Get All The Old Oil Out Use Dexron 3 Or Dexron 5 Trans Fluid, Don't For Get The Rearend Oil It Needs Also To Be Changed About Every 30,000 Miles. And Change The Trans Oil Till It's Bright Red. You Are Driving The Worlds Best Car Good Luck !!!!

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

did u just answer your own statement?

Sixdown

Um...why reply redundantly... four times?

I know you can buy it from Amsoil...
I posted that fact before you even did.

Anyway, I know what fluids I'm going to change, and have a list set up. Hopefully the car has been maintained well in the past.

Och

iTrader: (3)

You can take off the distributor cover on the drivers side of the engine (its not blocked by the intake), its very easy, just four 10mm bolts, and you can visually inspect the timing belt. I wouldn't worry about the belt though, I never actually seen a timing belt break, usually the water pump goes first, and in order to replace it timing belt must be removed, so this is when most people replace timing belt. So you can just wait until your water pump goes, of if you still insist on replacing the timing belt, make sure you get the water pump as well, along with crank/cam seals, new o-ring for bypass pipe and water inlet housing, as well as new idler pulleys and tensioner.

Your car is 18 years old now, and it probably already has some minor leaks. I don't think it would be a good idea to switch to synthetic now.

Sixdown

I haven't found any leaks at all of any kind, except the suspicious power steering but I can't find the leak, yet sense it's there...(there are air bubbles in the fluid).

Outside of that, I actually didn't think of replacing any gaskets and pulleys. I'm sure I need a new pulley as one is not exactly turning on track, but instead wobbling a little.

The oil is my biggest concern. Switch to synthetic or not bother.
I'm more concerned about the car's longevity, so will synthetic be useless at this stage?

sonyman

I would just use a good group III "synthetic" if you have any doubts at all. With a group III, there is no higher risk of leakage than there would be with a non-synthetic, group II oil. Pennzoil Platinum is one of the best group III "synthetics" on the market. If you want to stick with Amsoil, XLF is also made from group III basestocks.

Och

iTrader: (3)

Well you might not see any leaks at first glance, but I guarantee you, remove the distributor covers and housings, remove crank gear, and you will see some wetness around crank/cam gears, and around valve covers. But these aren't a big deal, they can be relatively easily replaced. But as long as internal engine seals are fine, you dont have to worry much about these external leaks. You can fill up with synthetic on your next oil change, and run it for 3K miles, and check oil level every other day or so. As long as the car does not appear to be consuming oil, you're good.