LS400 lunges when you drop it in (drive) '94
01-25-08, 10:49 AM
#31
ii got a broke egr pipe too. i might just get it redone when my starter goes out. so everything is easy to reach and what not. i just hope my starter doesn't break yet haha. since its getting close to that mark. i was thinkin of changing out all my motor mount, tranny mount, and diff mount. i only notice lunging on my car when i havent fullly warm it up for 2 minutes.
01-25-08, 10:55 AM
#32
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ii got a broke egr pipe too. i might just get it redone when my starter goes out. so everything is easy to reach and what not. i just hope my starter doesn't break yet haha. since its getting close to that mark. i was thinkin of changing out all my motor mount, tranny mount, and diff mount. i only notice lunging on my car when i havent fullly warm it up for 2 minutes.
Where are you located in Ca. Im at Point Mugu (Navy Base/Ventura). How did you determine that your EGR pipe was bad...do you here a leak???
Mark
01-25-08, 11:03 AM
#33
im in san diego california. the only reason we determine their was a leak. was because my mechanic friend heard a leak. he though it was my exhaust, and fooliooo broke my exhaust bolt lmaooo. so he took my exhaust apart and resealed it. the leak was still there so he use a hose. stuck it behind my motor try to listen to where the leak was comin from than bammm found out egr leak.
01-25-08, 01:24 PM
#34
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Wow,
I herd it was a (*%&(^(%) to fix. It is an exhaust leak, so would that allow cold air into the the valves, if so that could present a problem down the road. Not sure where the air would enter, or if it could get to the valves, maybe some one out there can give some imput.
Have a great day.
Mark
I herd it was a (*%&(^(%) to fix. It is an exhaust leak, so would that allow cold air into the the valves, if so that could present a problem down the road. Not sure where the air would enter, or if it could get to the valves, maybe some one out there can give some imput.
Have a great day.
Mark
01-25-08, 05:18 PM
#36
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You dont know how much I would appreciate that. I went through Toyota, and Chrysler Mech school, But the LS400 is not a toyota it is very much a one off, built from the ground up, there are a few sensors, but thats it.
Thank you.
Mark
01-26-08, 02:18 AM
#38
okay i talk to my lexus friend. he said if you gotten your tranny replaced. than your cable that goes into the tranny is or could possibly be stretch which is causing it. he said the other thing could be reseting your whole idle. you have to adjust the base idle and the tps. other than that they couldnt think of anythin else. i told him how people replace the tranny mount, motor mount, and diff mount. he said that wont resolve anything. so gl on tryin to fix it after that we are all stomped lmaoo. yea it could be somethin with the transmission being old and slipping. so it might be time to replace it. you might have to retighten your torque converter. but other than that cant think of anythin else
Last edited by PK_Celsior; 01-26-08 at 02:50 AM.
01-26-08, 10:17 AM
#40
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That is geat info, I do appreciate it. I think your mech is right on the money, and like I said earlier, it does feel like an adjustment, or torque converter. I know the mounts are all good...because I replaced them.
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Mark
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Mark
01-27-08, 09:25 AM
#41
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Well I have a Mercedes (Mech) buddy, and he went out and drove the car, he said it was strange, but came to the conclusion that it had to be the TPS (throttle position sensor). So I will look at that, and report my findings. This falls in line with what PK Celsior's mech friend said...so it must be. Thank you all for the great info, we might beat this yet.
Have a great day.
Mark
Have a great day.
Mark
01-28-08, 11:38 AM
#42
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Wow BIGBADDAD,
That's a head scratcher.. IF the tranny's been out before yeah, makes sense to look at that...
I just replaced my motor mounts.. What a Pain.. The local sears didn't have a 17MM Stubby for me.. ANd if any of you do this, Make sure you get the Stubby for the drivers side..
I actually used a normal 17mm wrench, I had to unbolt and move the compressor forward about 4 inches to get room, and I could only go about 2 notches on the closed box end at a time, but it went.. But yeah, You gotta take all that air cleaner stuff off and unhook all that PS holddown hoses 12MM , the one under the intake.. THe ones along the oil pan at the bottom.. THe wire loom along the crossmember, 3 10mm bolts.
Take off the oil sender plug... I had to lower my crossmember bolts to get the new mounts in because the old ones' ORiginal 1991 167K were a little flat..
You guys can tell if your mounts are bad, not necessary that you do the brake test, put in gear and brake and look at movement of engine.. THese mounts are soo soft, if you rev the car, you feel any vibrations at all, they are torn.... Mine were torn about 1/3 of the way around and really hard.. I just felt vibrations about 1500 RPM and when backing out in reverse... But now smooth as a baby...
It's kind of ****, because the mounts I think don't separate that often, unless you race..LOL.. But they just tear and harden up whick can be hard to handle on such smooth cars otherwise..LOL
GOOD LUCK Dad.
That's a head scratcher.. IF the tranny's been out before yeah, makes sense to look at that...
I just replaced my motor mounts.. What a Pain.. The local sears didn't have a 17MM Stubby for me.. ANd if any of you do this, Make sure you get the Stubby for the drivers side..
I actually used a normal 17mm wrench, I had to unbolt and move the compressor forward about 4 inches to get room, and I could only go about 2 notches on the closed box end at a time, but it went.. But yeah, You gotta take all that air cleaner stuff off and unhook all that PS holddown hoses 12MM , the one under the intake.. THe ones along the oil pan at the bottom.. THe wire loom along the crossmember, 3 10mm bolts.
Take off the oil sender plug... I had to lower my crossmember bolts to get the new mounts in because the old ones' ORiginal 1991 167K were a little flat..
You guys can tell if your mounts are bad, not necessary that you do the brake test, put in gear and brake and look at movement of engine.. THese mounts are soo soft, if you rev the car, you feel any vibrations at all, they are torn.... Mine were torn about 1/3 of the way around and really hard.. I just felt vibrations about 1500 RPM and when backing out in reverse... But now smooth as a baby...
It's kind of ****, because the mounts I think don't separate that often, unless you race..LOL.. But they just tear and harden up whick can be hard to handle on such smooth cars otherwise..LOL
GOOD LUCK Dad.
01-28-08, 12:21 PM
#43
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BIGBADDAD,
I had a similar problem with my 94 LS. When I would put it in Drive the car would lurch forward and when I would put it in Reverse the car would lurch backward. No amount of warming up would help it and this happened after I had the motor and trans mounts replaced, so that wasn't the cause. The indy mechanic I took it to rechecked all the mounts and couldn't figure it out. Needless to say, it bugged the @#&%! out of me.
Well, all these problems turned out to be symptoms relating to a cracked EGR pipe. I finally got around to replacing it and it was unbelievable... I had a new car. It now idles, shifts (both manually and automatically), and accelerates, all smooth as silk. It turned out that the exhaust leak that I thought I had was actually a cracked EGR pipe, which I fixed and ended up fixing a whole list of other problems along with it. The bad news is that changing the EGR pipe is a pain in the ****!!
I changed my own and believe me when I say you will want to do it in private away from the spouse and small children unless you want to expand their vocabulary. You're in luck if you have small hands and skinny forearms because one of the bolts is a pain to reach and unscrew. There's two bolts on the rear of the intake manifold to remove where the EGR pipe connects and then there's another two bolts that can be reached from underneath the car where the EGR pipe attaches to the passenger side exhaust near the front (or main) oxygen sensor. The difficult part is loosening the bolt that attaches the center of the EGR pipe to the rear of the engine block. It's difficult because of the tight space between the motor and the firewall that you have to squeeze your hand into to get at the bolt. When I attached the new EGR pipe I left the 5th PITA bolt off, so if/when I have to change it again, it will be tons more easy.
The alternative is to take it to the shop and have it done. Be warned though that the repair manual says to drop the transmission to remove the EGR pipe which means, expensive labor costs. Either way, with your symptoms being so close to what I experienced, it would be worth your while to have your EGR pipe checked out. Good luck.
In the pic, #2 is the EGR pipe.
I had a similar problem with my 94 LS. When I would put it in Drive the car would lurch forward and when I would put it in Reverse the car would lurch backward. No amount of warming up would help it and this happened after I had the motor and trans mounts replaced, so that wasn't the cause. The indy mechanic I took it to rechecked all the mounts and couldn't figure it out. Needless to say, it bugged the @#&%! out of me.
Well, all these problems turned out to be symptoms relating to a cracked EGR pipe. I finally got around to replacing it and it was unbelievable... I had a new car. It now idles, shifts (both manually and automatically), and accelerates, all smooth as silk. It turned out that the exhaust leak that I thought I had was actually a cracked EGR pipe, which I fixed and ended up fixing a whole list of other problems along with it. The bad news is that changing the EGR pipe is a pain in the ****!!
I changed my own and believe me when I say you will want to do it in private away from the spouse and small children unless you want to expand their vocabulary. You're in luck if you have small hands and skinny forearms because one of the bolts is a pain to reach and unscrew. There's two bolts on the rear of the intake manifold to remove where the EGR pipe connects and then there's another two bolts that can be reached from underneath the car where the EGR pipe attaches to the passenger side exhaust near the front (or main) oxygen sensor. The difficult part is loosening the bolt that attaches the center of the EGR pipe to the rear of the engine block. It's difficult because of the tight space between the motor and the firewall that you have to squeeze your hand into to get at the bolt. When I attached the new EGR pipe I left the 5th PITA bolt off, so if/when I have to change it again, it will be tons more easy.
The alternative is to take it to the shop and have it done. Be warned though that the repair manual says to drop the transmission to remove the EGR pipe which means, expensive labor costs. Either way, with your symptoms being so close to what I experienced, it would be worth your while to have your EGR pipe checked out. Good luck.
In the pic, #2 is the EGR pipe.
01-28-08, 03:48 PM
#44
hhaha because you wont pass smog in california lmao. the egr pipe is use for smog. so if you get rid of it. i really have no clue how you gona pass smog. its called the exhaust gas recirculation. it helps to reduce your NOx. since my egr pipe is leaking. i notice a high score on the NOx side of my smog test.
01-30-08, 12:51 PM
#45
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Ok, as for the (TPS)
I checked/re-checked/adjusted/re-adjusted, and no joy!!!! so I am back to the drawing board. What I have noticed is , when I start my car and drop it into reverse...(pause)...and then go into drive I feel a very light grab as the trans starts to lock into gear, and then a secound later another grab, but they are both pretty soft, like what it should feel like (except I dont think there should be a secound grab). Now if I start the car, move the shifter to neutral...(pause)...and then go into drive or reverse, the trans grabs(and I mean it grabs), gives me whipplash. I just dont know, oh yea, some times I will be driving at slow speeds, and the trans feels like it is going in and out of gear, back and forth, like it is searching, and then some other times it will shift and rock back and forth, very spungie feeling, like the whole engine and transmission is moving (I do have all new mounts). Its been doing this for a long time, but it is getting worse.
Does anyone know how to adjust the trans cable, or if it can be adjusted.
Thank you for listening.
Have a great day.
Mark
I checked/re-checked/adjusted/re-adjusted, and no joy!!!! so I am back to the drawing board. What I have noticed is , when I start my car and drop it into reverse...(pause)...and then go into drive I feel a very light grab as the trans starts to lock into gear, and then a secound later another grab, but they are both pretty soft, like what it should feel like (except I dont think there should be a secound grab). Now if I start the car, move the shifter to neutral...(pause)...and then go into drive or reverse, the trans grabs(and I mean it grabs), gives me whipplash. I just dont know, oh yea, some times I will be driving at slow speeds, and the trans feels like it is going in and out of gear, back and forth, like it is searching, and then some other times it will shift and rock back and forth, very spungie feeling, like the whole engine and transmission is moving (I do have all new mounts). Its been doing this for a long time, but it is getting worse.
Does anyone know how to adjust the trans cable, or if it can be adjusted.
Thank you for listening.
Have a great day.
Mark