Sportznuts

Thanks so much Jeff. I ordered Napa Premium Brake Rotors for $144 total. I'm buying front and back premium brake pads there for $120 total. I can have rotors/brake pads installed for $170 front and back.

Total = $435 for 4 new premium rotors with front and back brakes INSTALLED.
Great deal.
Thank you very much for your help.

Next thing I'm gonna do is Idle control valve to see if that fixes p/s leak. I don't know much about cars so I guess I have to buy new idle control valve and have mechanic replace it.

I've got a question. If the mechanic says the rack is leaking, could he be wrong? Could it really be from the control valve? I guess I'm a little confused.

I can't wait until I get the struts done. It's hard to live with bouncy Lexus with horrible handling. Atleast now my brakes will be responsive.

Thanks for all your help.

damon

I think the Kumhos are a much better strategy than tires you can't possibly date off of ebay or graigslist. Old rubber can be dangerous!

Save the strut change until you have funds & find a cheaper shop!!

trukn1

The rack could very well be leaking, but I dont think it would cause you to lose as much PS fluid as you say you are unless it is totaly shot. Anything is possible. Have the car jacked up and look under the car on the driver side to see if any leaks. This is a pic, borrowed, of the steering rack.

Generally if the leak is more on the dricer side of the car particularly around the large bolt in the pic, then the steering rack is most likely leaking. You can also get holes in the rubber bushings, shown, which will also give you a leak. If, you loke under the car and there seems to me more fluid leakage from the right side of the car, in all probability it is the IAC valve which is leaking and dripping down on to of your alternator and stuff. Really want to take care of that leak, because it WILL eventuially take out your alternator. Not saying your mechanic doesnt know what he is saying, but you need to have an idea as well.

I agree with this statement to, however, sometime you gotta do what you gotta do, on a temp basis. As long as you dont use it as a permanent fix, and you absolutely NEED them, then go for it. The Kumho's are a good tire. I run them in 18's myself. The only complaint that I and many others have had with that tire is that the tread life is not that great. I bought mine 2 years ago, and need 2 new ones in the rear already. Only 10K miles on them.

Sportznuts

I put just a little bit of p/s fluid every two weeks. It's not much. It doesn't drain, I just have to pour slowly for a couple seconds to fill to top.

Thanks for all great info Trukn1. I love seeing pictures.

I guess I can keep filling up p/s fluid for another year and hope it holds up until I can afford to fix everything. But like you said, it could just be the idle control valve.

On a side note, I have never seen oil residue on the ground, does that mean it's more likely to be the idle control valve than the rack?

jeffls400

Nice deal on the brakes. Over the weekend, I did a complete front and rear overhaul of the braking system. Napa Ultra Premium rotors, OEM brake pads, OEM caliper rebuild kits, OEM shim kits, OEM hardware and Goodridge stainless lines. The total cost shipped for all parts was about $450.

The Kumho Solus tires that I am running in the 205/65/15 size currently have 37,000 miles on them and are quiet, comfortable and reasonably reponsive. Based on the treadwear to date, I should have no problem getting close to 60,000 out of them. Hard to beat for the price.

On the PS issue, I would try the elimination of the IAC valve. Based on your mileage, and the indication that you are not seeing fluid in the driveway, I think this could be your issue.

Och

iTrader: (3)

Before you go ahead and buy the valve for $100, have your mechanic check it. If it's leaking indeed, you can just take it out, and plug it - $100 saved.

trukn1

The IAC valve sounds like the culprit, especially since you are not seeing leaks on the ground when you move the car. You can either buy a new one from the dealer (dealer only part) for $120 or as a few others suggested, just remove and have it plugged. Either way, something is gonna have to be done to it anyway. This is gonna be the cheapest alternative to eliminate first as opposed to having to buy a whole steering rack.

Och

iTrader: (3)

Just to clear up some confusion, the valve in question is the power streering air control valve. It is located on the bottom of the steering pump, and it's not really necessary, your car and power steering will function just fine without it.

It's often refered to as IAC, or idle air control valve. That's incorrect, the IAC is a different valve, located in the front of the intake manifold, and it's absolutely necessary for your vehicle to run properly.

Sportznuts

Thank you for clearing that up. It is quite confusing.