damon

Wow!!
Don't know where nosechunks has been but that guy knows his ****.
The Karman Vortex sensor of your LS has been damaged. He is exactly right it is not a MAF.

I also learned this lesson the hard way.

nosechunks

Och nailed it, the meter is working as there is nothing electronically wrong with it, nothing is shorted or open, but the frequency it is sending out is incorrect.

It will start and then die because theres a delay for the AFM to be looked at. The computer has a basic start map before it looks at the sensors. as soon as it looks at the AFM it sees either little or no air speed and turns off the fuel.

Damon: thanks, im huge into supra's witch use the same basic engine control it seems.

I should note i said that mk3 supra's use the same AFM i should have specified its the turbo models with the 7M engine. im unsure if the 1jz or 1g uses the same AFM, but for sure a turbo 7m supra uses the same AFM electronics with a smaller housing.

Och

iTrader: (3)

Actually I'm still not 100% sure it's his MAF. When I tried cleaning my MAF (or AFT to be correct) the car's RPM jumped like crazy, and CEL would go on and off. After about 30 minutes everything returned to normal, steady RPMs, no CEL.

The thing is, he's saying that the same thing happens with MAF disconnected, but our cars should run almost fine without MAF, using ECUs base fuel maps. There's a good chance he has an air leak.

Only 7m engine uses the same MAF, or almost the same, other engines are completely different.

LittleMous

Did you leave the engine on for 30 mins?
My car can't stay running for 30 sec (Same with out AFM)...no help with gas.. so..it should be something to do with air....air leak or AFM
How do you check air leaks
when I removed the parts I see the silver stuff between it, is that something to prevent air leak?

Och

iTrader: (3)

If your car doesn't run with MAF disconnected, even if you give it gas, it's gotta be an air leak. I don't know about any silver stuff, just make sure all the hoses are on tight. Listen if you hear any hissing, but it usually takes a major air leak to have your engine stall out like this. Most of the small hoses will cause rough idle, and larger hoses will cause stalling at idle, but once you give it gas, it should run, maybe a little rough. In any case, replace your AFM and see what happens, and keep us updated.

LittleMous

OK I will replace my AFM first


Do I take the AFM out and replace it or replace with the whole thing show in the picture?

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

pretty sure u replace the black thing with 3 screws.

Och

iTrader: (3)

No, replace the whole housing, each one is calibrated differently. There's an adjusting screw on the side of the housing.

nosechunks

eh they don't change the mixture that much, could just change the electronics, but if you have the whole housing might aswell do that.

LittleMous

I end up change the electronic unit only and it's all good now....
When start, it idle at 1200 RPMs (normal?)


I bought two AFM..... just in case...
Now I need to sell one....
I pay $100 + for it and now selling for $90 shipped
PM me if anyone is interesting on it

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear it!

On a cold start (engine not at operating temp) -- 1200RPM's is perfectly fine. However, it should settle down well below 1000RPM's once it hits operating temperature. (Mine personally idles at 500-600RPMS when warm).

You could keep the extra MAF, and never have to worry about damaging this one by cleaning it in the future

But you shouldn't have any problems selling the MAF.. especially if you have an exceptional price.