Leaking head gasket? Death of my car?
02-18-08, 07:09 PM
#17
So I spoke to the mechanic.. he told me it would be a $2K job to replace the gasket because of the labor involved of taking it out,and the head would need to be machined to make sure the surface is perfectly flat.
He also told me that he didn't think it was a good idea to fix just the gasket-- he said that given the age of the motor (212K miles), that I should just replace with a newer motor.
He found another 1UZ from Japan and quoted me $4800 installed.
I'll take it to another place for a second opinion, but I don't even know where to go.
He also told me that he didn't think it was a good idea to fix just the gasket-- he said that given the age of the motor (212K miles), that I should just replace with a newer motor.
He found another 1UZ from Japan and quoted me $4800 installed.
I'll take it to another place for a second opinion, but I don't even know where to go.
And $2000 is just too expensive, even given the labor. You should find a place that would do it for $1200 tops, but given the age of the engine, it'd be wise to replace it, if it does indeed have a blown headgasket. But you can get a 1uz engine for like $800, and swapping it in shouldnt cost you more than $1500. Defenately not 4800, thats ridiculous.
In any case, find a place to get a second opinion. The 1uz engine is all aluminum, and headgaskets just dont fail on aluminum engine unless you majorly overheat.
02-18-08, 09:14 PM
#20
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I'm not an expert on this, but I've heard conflicting opinions on machining (shaving) the head. In any case, it's not absolutely necessary.
And $2000 is just too expensive, even given the labor. You should find a place that would do it for $1200 tops, but given the age of the engine, it'd be wise to replace it, if it does indeed have a blown headgasket. But you can get a 1uz engine for like $800, and swapping it in shouldnt cost you more than $1500. Defenately not 4800, thats ridiculous.
In any case, find a place to get a second opinion. The 1uz engine is all aluminum, and headgaskets just dont fail on aluminum engine unless you majorly overheat.
And $2000 is just too expensive, even given the labor. You should find a place that would do it for $1200 tops, but given the age of the engine, it'd be wise to replace it, if it does indeed have a blown headgasket. But you can get a 1uz engine for like $800, and swapping it in shouldnt cost you more than $1500. Defenately not 4800, thats ridiculous.
In any case, find a place to get a second opinion. The 1uz engine is all aluminum, and headgaskets just dont fail on aluminum engine unless you majorly overheat.
02-18-08, 11:39 PM
#21
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Wheres the puddle coming from? Is it the front of the engine or the sides of the engine? If he's saying you can visibly see where the coolant's leaking, take a look for your self. If he can see it, so can you, just look along both sides of the head for any whiteish red residue, unless it's been converted to green coolant, then it will be greenish white. Also when was the last time that your waterpump was replaced. Theres a weep hole on the water pump that will let coolant drip and puddle up when the interal seal goes bad on the waterpump.
02-19-08, 11:43 AM
#22
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You can also "borrow" a head gasket tester from Autozone or similar store. It tests, I believe, for exhaust gas in the coolant. Good luck. I changed head gaskets in my SBF and I had no experience. You learn a lot about your engine!
02-20-08, 06:52 PM
#24
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Okay so I've been monitoring the coolant level, it is dropping slowly. I have to top off the overflow resevoir every 2-3 days. Here's the thing though.. I'm seeing puddles on the ground, but I can't determine if the puddles are just water or coolant? What would be an easy way to tell ?
What surprises me is that the engine runs strong! On the highway when I'm cruising at 45-60mph, and then go WOT, the car pulls pretty well...
What surprises me is that the engine runs strong! On the highway when I'm cruising at 45-60mph, and then go WOT, the car pulls pretty well...
02-21-08, 09:51 AM
#27
Put your hand in the puddle and rub your fingers together. It will have a different feel to it. You know how water feels if you rub your fingers together.. This will be a little slicker and could have a slight odor to it.
(A kleenex/toilet paper/paper towel etc.. wouldn't be a bad idea for color).
(A kleenex/toilet paper/paper towel etc.. wouldn't be a bad idea for color).
04-08-08, 02:23 AM
#28
If at least one other shop confirms the leak is an external head gasket leak and the leak is small (a tablespoon or less of coolant leaks per day) you could probably seal it using a high silicate content antifreeze and Bar's stop leak. That's how I stopped an external head gasket leak 6 years ago on a Toyota 20R engine and it has worked all this time. Just be sure to change high silicate antifreezes every year or else there is a danger you could clog the radiator.
I might be right there with you Suneet, even though I'm sure you've taken care of your problem.
Though I know this leak (if it is a HG leak) is small. I haven't noticed the coolant drop in weeks.. So its just a small bit here and there. But I imagine these things can go from small to large in a split second. So it isn't prudent to let a HG leak go.
With that said, I have 229,000 miles on the engine -- Though it runs great,.. it otherwise doesn't seem to be in any mechanical trouble. No oil leaks, no smoke (aside from this white smoke for a few minutes on startup that doesn't always happen) -- Which leads me to this HG issue.
Now with all of that said, yes it has a ton of miles,.. but
A) Would getting an indie to replace the HG be worth it on this engine? (I'm thinking yes).
B) I quoted you there, because you said you used Barrs stopleak and it stopped your leak for a long time. Considering this is a small leak, I might stand a chance that it would do the same. Or is that type of leak sealant only for 'external leaks' not internal?
Let me know -- I might give Barr's a shot if it would stop the leak and buy me some time. It just irks me that I bought into a high mileage car that might have one of the worst problems you can have on a high mileage engine.. A blown headgasket.. sigh.
The seller who is an ASE master mech. should give me a break on labor cost to fix a bad headgasket on a car he sold me 2 months ago, saying it was in 'tip top' shape and he had replaced seals and what not just 30k ago. (T-belt, waterpump, and all that goes with it).
But on the same token, even a 'deal' would be what, 500$ at best, 1000$ at worse from an indie? (I know shops will charge you 2grand full price.. ) -- But I think some people have gotten them done for closer to 500-800.
I don't have 800$ lying around in spare change, so the Barr's is something I'd definitely try -- If it is safe. Basically if it works, great, if it doesn't I'm still in the same shape I am right now. IE: It won't clog or mess anything up if I use it.
Thanks,
04-08-08, 09:15 AM
#30
Yup, exhaust gas in coolant tester. I had one run on my turbo maxima when it blew its headgasket. The one I used mounted over the radiator cap and had like a 3 stage filtering system. Based on the "score" from the tester card, you can see how bad the leak is...very cool...
There are also two types of head gaskets leaks: 1 that comes into the combustion chamber most common), and the other that leaks out of the headgasket without going into the combustion chamber. It sounds like you have the latter.
I agree with a low mileage used engine, just have the compression checked on each cylinder, replace all the gaskets on it and you'll still be saving money over what this mechanic wants to charge you.
There are also two types of head gaskets leaks: 1 that comes into the combustion chamber most common), and the other that leaks out of the headgasket without going into the combustion chamber. It sounds like you have the latter.
I agree with a low mileage used engine, just have the compression checked on each cylinder, replace all the gaskets on it and you'll still be saving money over what this mechanic wants to charge you.