Have you ever used "Motor Flush" when doing an oil change?
03-17-08, 03:12 PM
#16
I think it is time we should get a royalty check from SeaFoam since many of us have made very positive claims for it 
just kidding but I will say I have used it several times and the last time I had it inspected on the smog machine I got very clean numbers - the tech said he had never seen such low numbers - even with a modified exhaust. I never tried soaking a part in it - theoretically it is an additive and I guess of used on a regular basis it will clean. Sounds like this will keep going like octane ratings has.
just kidding but I will say I have used it several times and the last time I had it inspected on the smog machine I got very clean numbers - the tech said he had never seen such low numbers - even with a modified exhaust. I never tried soaking a part in it - theoretically it is an additive and I guess of used on a regular basis it will clean. Sounds like this will keep going like octane ratings has.
03-17-08, 03:47 PM
#17
Hard to imagine oil has the same properties as an flammable substance such as seafoam 
But we need to do the little study. I need to do a time lapse on oil/seafoam and throw in some other chemicals, maybe some synthetic in a jar, some fuel inj. cleaner in one.. etc. At the very least take some pictures at 24hours, 48, 72 etc.. Be interesting to see what chemicals do on a real engine part exposed outside.
Carbon build up -- The intake procedure is the most beneficial of sea-foams imo. The gas is second,.. the crankcase.. meh -- Maybe , maybe not. But I'll try anything once.
'much' is key.. I agree -- you get some cleaning from these products but it isn't like dismantling and scrubbing yourself. Still makes me feel better to use some fuel inj. cleaner ever once in a while, and seafoam every once in a while -- Ya know?
Yup, and there inlies the danger..
Wish there was an exterior' non invasive way to determine the condition of your seals.. ie: rear main and so on. I have a high mileage motor -- but the previous owner claims to have rebuilt part of it.. New seals in many areas about 30-40k ago. I don't think he had the engine completely apart.. but maybe he did. Hard to prove.
But we need to do the little study. I need to do a time lapse on oil/seafoam and throw in some other chemicals, maybe some synthetic in a jar, some fuel inj. cleaner in one.. etc. At the very least take some pictures at 24hours, 48, 72 etc.. Be interesting to see what chemicals do on a real engine part exposed outside.Carbon build up -- The intake procedure is the most beneficial of sea-foams imo. The gas is second,.. the crankcase.. meh -- Maybe , maybe not. But I'll try anything once.
'much' is key.. I agree -- you get some cleaning from these products but it isn't like dismantling and scrubbing yourself. Still makes me feel better to use some fuel inj. cleaner ever once in a while, and seafoam every once in a while -- Ya know?
Yup, and there inlies the danger..
Wish there was an exterior' non invasive way to determine the condition of your seals.. ie: rear main and so on. I have a high mileage motor -- but the previous owner claims to have rebuilt part of it.. New seals in many areas about 30-40k ago. I don't think he had the engine completely apart.. but maybe he did. Hard to prove.
Then you have the rear main seal, and to replace it you will have to drop the transmission - major pain in the ***.
With that said, those are the easy seals, and usually its pretty easy to tell if they are leaking. But there are internal seals, such as valve seals and piston rings. If those are leaking, it will allow for oil to get into the combustion cylinder and burn, also contaminating your oil, resulting in sludge buildup faster than usual. And of course the engine will lose compression. Replacing those is pretty much considered to be an engine rebuild, and can be quite costly.
By the way the fact that engine exaust gases and other combustion by products contaminate oil is exactly why I don't buy the claim that synthetic oil can last longer than conventional oil. Some companies claim that it can last up to 15,000 but I dont buy it. I'm sure the oil itself could, but it still gets dirty and contaminated and loses its properties. I use synthetic oil in my GS because I believe it has superior lubricating properties, especially on cold starts, but I still change it every 2-2.5k miles. I would use it in my LS as well, but my cam seals and valve cover gaskets have small leaks, and I dont want to escalate them. I also have a leak somewhere on the bottom of the engine, apapretly the oil dipstic seal, that is kind of making me concerned, and I'm going to try and figure out how to fix it.
03-17-08, 03:49 PM
#18
Hard to imagine oil has the same properties as an flammable substance such as seafoam But we need to do the little study. I need to do a time lapse on oil/seafoam and throw in some other chemicals, maybe some synthetic in a jar, some fuel inj. cleaner in one.. etc. At the very least take some pictures at 24hours, 48, 72 etc.. Be interesting to see what chemicals do on a real engine part exposed outside.
But we need to do the little study. I need to do a time lapse on oil/seafoam and throw in some other chemicals, maybe some synthetic in a jar, some fuel inj. cleaner in one.. etc. At the very least take some pictures at 24hours, 48, 72 etc.. Be interesting to see what chemicals do on a real engine part exposed outside.
03-17-08, 09:47 PM
#19
Glad to hear from everyone I had to have my valves ajusted due to a lot of noise on my 91 lexus while the valve train was open my engine was as clean as a new engine which I was suprised. I do drive about 35-45,000 miles a year as a salesman and I know this will keep your engine clean because the oil is going through the filter and keeping the engine clean. I forgot to tell that I use Amsoil filters and I use the longer one that fits the ls400 engine. The Amsoil filters I think are about 5 micron I also see that mobil has thier own filter with about the same micron as Amsoil. They aren't cheap but do a great job keeping the oil filtered. My last car a 1986 cressida with 440,000 miles on it used mobil one and I changed it every 10,000 miles and when I pulled of the head to check a leak the honing marks in the engine were still clear and the engine showed no wear at 440,000 miles. in 1990 mobil took 4 bmw's put them on rollers and ran the engines 1 million miles and then took apart the engines and found little wear on them this was on their website a couple years ago. I heard that the new lexus 460 is now coming with synthetic oil I think it is private labeled by Mobil one can't be sure. A lot people are running synthetic oil in 1990 to 2007 lexus with no leaks. I also need to replace my front crank seal and it only leaks just a little bit with 5w-30 syn oil.
03-17-08, 10:07 PM
#20
Well, you dont have to take the engine apart to replace most of the "exterior seal". You have the crank seal which is usually replaced during timing belt job, and you have cam seals that could be replaced during a timing belt job with some extra effort. The of course you have the valve cover gaskets, that aren't that hard to replace. And it seems that you have oil dipstick seal, and apparently its leaking on my car... I have to figure out how to replace it.
Most of the seals you are talking about are front seals. I've done it 3 or 4 times.. So I am familiar with the inside of a general engine. From what work I've done on my LS 400 , suprisingly, it is not that complicated compared to some other, same year, engines. Like my brother had a 1990 Nissan 300ZX, they didn't use gaskets hardly anywhere where the engine mates metal (aluminum) on metal. That was a pain to work on.. then starting in 1991 (my year 300ZX) They used gaskets/seals .. much , much easier to work with.
Yup, there is a seal on any piece that has oil running through it, pressurized or not. The dipstick seal is actually a pain in the **** to do on alot of cars. It isn't a hard procedure, but getting to it is usually pain. I haven't really looked at it on the Lexus,.. maybe they have left decent enough room where not much or (nothing hah), has to be removed to replace the seal.
That seal isn't a big worry,.. but it is only to the extent that if it pops worse near the bottom you could lose pressure and oil at a decent rate going down the highway one day and cause some trouble. I'm sure you realize that.. so fixing it soon should be a reasonable priority.. which it seems to be. Doing it yourself should also be very feasible,.. if you are mechanically inclined which judging by your posts, you definitely are.
Then you have the rear main seal, and to replace it you will have to drop the transmission - major pain in the ***.
The tranny has been dropped or raised at least 3 times from the accounts he has told me on the history for various procedures.. But I am not sure if the rear main has been replaced. I hope it has, but most likely not.
With that said, those are the easy seals, and usually its pretty easy to tell if they are leaking. But there are internal seals, such as valve seals and piston rings. If those are leaking, it will allow for oil to get into the combustion cylinder and burn, also contaminating your oil, resulting in sludge buildup faster than usual. And of course the engine will lose compression. Replacing those is pretty much considered to be an engine rebuild, and can be quite costly.
I hate the internal seals!
-- With the mileage on my motor I am fairly sure my valve seals perhaps guides are worn a decent amount. I don't burn oil and the level stays solid.. But I still have to go with age and mileage on that suspicion. I'd like to do a compression check when I do the plugs in the next few months... How much is a tool to check compression? Where is the best place to purchase?Also, speaking of a general rebuild, replacing seals (timing belt maybe) (mine has 20-30k on it).. rear main.. and specifically valve seals, piston rings and so forth. What are we talking here? Parts about , what? 400-500$ -- Labor about 12-15 hours? So maybe 2 grand or so on a rebuild?
I've heard people quoted under a grand for a rebuild,.. what is that all about?
By the way the fact that engine exaust gases and other combustion by products contaminate oil is exactly why I don't buy the claim that synthetic oil can last longer than conventional oil. Some companies claim that it can last up to 15,000 but I dont buy it. I'm sure the oil itself could, but it still gets dirty and contaminated and loses its properties. I use synthetic oil in my GS because I believe it has superior lubricating properties, especially on cold starts, but I still change it every 2-2.5k miles. I would use it in my LS as well, but my cam seals and valve cover gaskets have small leaks, and I dont want to escalate them. I also have a leak somewhere on the bottom of the engine, apapretly the oil dipstic seal, that is kind of making me concerned, and I'm going to try and figure out how to fix it.
The leaks you describe are minor,.. and frankly the best places you want leaks. Just grab some plugs and wires -- Take the time to get to your plugs -- By that time you will have alot of stuff that is in the way so you can get a better look and feel for replacing the seals. The valve cover is easy as pie, just getting to it. This is the same for all of them,.. I'd make a weekend out of it. Parts will be very cheap. Get some High Temp RTV as well.. Because there are spots that don't mate that well on some seals that can use some spot touching with RTV. IE: Valve Cover Gasket.. some spots don't mate as well as one would like and it is prudent to use the RTV in those areas. (I am usually liberal with it)
As for your oil change intervals,.. smart man. A bit 'too' early -- But you can never change oil too much. If one were to change every 500 miles it would benefit the engine to some small degree -- I have about 1200 miles since my last oil change.. I will probably do about the same milage as you.. around 2500. I know I can go 4-5k very safely,.. but it just makes me feel better with constant fresh oil and filter in there. especially the new filters to rid the engine of the contaminants that have been in there from 5k oil changes in the past.
03-17-08, 10:19 PM
#22
How loud was the engine tapping/knocking when you decided you needed this done? (compare to another common sound).
Also these engines stay clean,.. a large reason they last so long. Unlike say the ES series there was a good run of them that had big sludge problems. So it isn't to say Lexus builds ALL long lasting sludge free (or resistant) engines.. But the LS from 90-2000 at least, is a solid , seemingly clean engine if maintained reasonably.
I do drive about 35-45,000 miles a year as a salesman and I know this will keep your engine clean because the oil is going through the filter and keeping the engine clean.
My last car a 1986 cressida with 440,000 miles on it used mobil one and I changed it every 10,000 miles and when I pulled of the head to check a leak the honing marks in the engine were still clear and the engine showed no wear at 440,000 miles.
No wear whatsoever? That is hard to believe after half a million miles.
in 1990 mobil took 4 bmw's put them on rollers and ran the engines 1 million miles and then took apart the engines and found little wear on them this was on their website a couple years ago. I heard that the new lexus 460 is now coming with synthetic oil I think it is private labeled by Mobil one can't be sure. A lot people are running synthetic oil in 1990 to 2007 lexus with no leaks. I also need to replace my front crank seal and it only leaks just a little bit with 5w-30 syn oil.
The whole debate on Synthetic providing drasticly better protection for the engine in normal 3k oil change intervals is where I disagree. But everyone picks a side on this debate.. And the bottom line is changing the oil and filter frequently is going to do the job regardless of if you use Synth or Dino.
Also,.. You can run synthetic in a car with extreme high mileage.. The whole trick is that the car was started on synthetic at under 100k.. So the seals are 'clogged' proverbially with the synthetic oil atomically sized particles.. vs having a high mileage engine that has been on Dino for 15 years and throwing Synthetic in there one day and discovering leaks.. Had that engine been on synthetic it wouldn't leak of course.. and dropping in Dino from synthetic wouldn't leak either (bigger isn't going to hurt this seal property that happens over time).
I change my oil often,.. very often.. So I really don't justify the price of synthetic with how often I do it. Now for others,.. my girlfriend for example,.. I put synthetic in her car. The extended variation for 15k. Can't trust her to change her oil, and it gives me a long time to work with on having to change hers again.
It is great for women imho. Though don't let them know it could potentially last a full year without serious side effects.. or they will go 2-3yrs without an oil chage. (Ouch) -- *Of course not all women, for any women who might view this site.. just some of you.
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