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Water Wetter. (Where does your temp gauge max at?)

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Old 03-13-08, 10:24 AM
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Neofate
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Default Water Wetter. (Where does your temp gauge max at?)

Just thought I'd add my experience with it. I've been a long time fan of the product, and a little goes a long way.

I added 3/4th's of a bottle to my coolant reservoir about a week ago. I drained the equivalent amount out via siphon and then added the Water Wetter.

Previously my temperature needle gauge would stay a hair under the mid-way mark at maximum temperature. Never go above it, but would get there quickly.

With Water Wetter, it now has dropped below the first needle under the halfway mark. If that makes sense. That is where is stays at max. So it made a significant difference.

Instead of basically running at half tilt on the temp needle, I run one notch less. (What that equates to in temperature I am unsure,.. but I know the engine is thankful for it,.. and it is isn't 'overcooling' I'm sure )

Anyone else use this stuff? Or interested in it?

I don't advise it to fix any problems, but it is good for states like mine where it can go 30-45days in a consecutive row at 100+ Degree's. Also dropping the engine temp 10-20, 30 degree's isn't a bad thing unless your engine already runs very cool.

9.99$ a bottle,..

Old 03-13-08, 01:51 PM
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tbilisi79
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I have used it in the past in my 5 speed Lincoln. It worked very well. It helped cool down faster and would run 5-10 degrees cooler. I had autometer temp gauge in that car. I havent used it in any other cars since then.
I read somewhere it is good for the cooling system, keeps the water pump oiled up and fights corrosion.
Old 03-14-08, 03:51 PM
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en11871
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Post water wetter

Neo,

Can I just add the water wetter without removing that same amount of coolant? How often do I need to use the water wetter after the first time?

Originally Posted by Neofate
Just thought I'd add my experience with it. I've been a long time fan of the product, and a little goes a long way.

I added 3/4th's of a bottle to my coolant reservoir about a week ago. I drained the equivalent amount out via siphon and then added the Water Wetter.

Previously my temperature needle gauge would stay a hair under the mid-way mark at maximum temperature. Never go above it, but would get there quickly.

With Water Wetter, it now has dropped below the first needle under the halfway mark. If that makes sense. That is where is stays at max. So it made a significant difference.

Instead of basically running at half tilt on the temp needle, I run one notch less. (What that equates to in temperature I am unsure,.. but I know the engine is thankful for it,.. and it is isn't 'overcooling' I'm sure )

Anyone else use this stuff? Or interested in it?

I don't advise it to fix any problems, but it is good for states like mine where it can go 30-45days in a consecutive row at 100+ Degree's. Also dropping the engine temp 10-20, 30 degree's isn't a bad thing unless your engine already runs very cool.

9.99$ a bottle,..

Old 03-14-08, 04:56 PM
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ur coolant will overflow otherwise....

just use a turkey baster
Old 03-14-08, 07:44 PM
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Neofate
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Originally Posted by en11871
Neo,

Can I just add the water wetter without removing that same amount of coolant? How often do I need to use the water wetter after the first time?
en,..

If your coolant level is of proper level,.. then no. You will have to siphon (drain) about 12oz of coolant. (Not much.. ) -- Then just pour the water wetter in your overflow reservoir.

A turkey baster,.. or a siphon pump.. or a piece of water hose and your mouth will work just fine to drain out the coolant.

IE: place hose in reservoir/overflow -- kneel down beside car.. have other end lower than tank. Suck on end of hose for a split second, then direct it into a container. After 12-16oz is drained, kink the hose (or put thumb over it).. remove hose. Pour in water wetter.

Now, often coolant levels are 10-30oz low anyways.. so just check your levels out. If the car has been sitting a while,.. if the 'cold level' is more than 5-6mm below the bottom line.. you can pour in the water wetter without draining any coolant out.

If it is where it is supposed to be.. On or slightly above the bottom line (cold) drain. (siphon)

Keep in mind,.. its better to drain too much than not enough. Coolant is cheap, and you can buy some 50/50 pre-mix at autozone and just eyeball the drain amount. (Drain a little more than you need to). Then pour in the entire bottle of water wetter, and top it off with the 50/50 mix you bought to the line on 'cold level'.

As for your second question:

You only need to add Water wetter each time you flush/change your coolant. So about every 2 years.

It is good stuff.. does no harm, and is really amazing at the immediate difference it makes in the level of your engine temperature.

Hope that helps.
Old 03-14-08, 08:38 PM
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seems like pretty good stuff. might even improve gas mileage (and performance) a small bit.
Old 03-15-08, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Neofate
Just thought I'd add my experience with it. I've been a long time fan of the product, and a little goes a long way.

I added 3/4th's of a bottle to my coolant reservoir about a week ago. I drained the equivalent amount out via siphon and then added the Water Wetter.

Previously my temperature needle gauge would stay a hair under the mid-way mark at maximum temperature. Never go above it, but would get there quickly.

With Water Wetter, it now has dropped below the first needle under the halfway mark. If that makes sense. That is where is stays at max. So it made a significant difference.

Instead of basically running at half tilt on the temp needle, I run one notch less. (What that equates to in temperature I am unsure,.. but I know the engine is thankful for it,.. and it is isn't 'overcooling' I'm sure )

Anyone else use this stuff? Or interested in it?

I don't advise it to fix any problems, but it is good for states like mine where it can go 30-45days in a consecutive row at 100+ Degree's. Also dropping the engine temp 10-20, 30 degree's isn't a bad thing unless your engine already runs very cool.

9.99$ a bottle,..


This is the first time i heard of it and i'm going to try this when the temp here hit 100's cuz Vegas is already started hitting 80's. Last summer it was 115-118 like almost everyday.
Old 03-15-08, 06:31 AM
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good post here........redline makes great products
Old 03-15-08, 07:35 AM
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Remember, Waterwetter cannot make your coolant temps go below the thermostat temperature setting.

Waterwetter is great for keeping the temps from getting too high when the thermostat is open.
Old 03-16-08, 12:14 PM
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Bill Dowd
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besides using water wetter use synthetic oil in the engine in vegas or any hot climate it will drop your oil temp and this will help drop your water temp according to all the different ads and talking to oil people. The synthetic oil is really good for cold climate starts protecting the engine from oil starvation in cold start ups. Mobil one now makes a 15,000 mile oil which can be changed once a year or 15,000 miles BMW Mercedes Porche Corvette and all high performace cars from Italy and other countries have been going to 15,000 mile oil changes since 1999 go to google and look up snythetic oil and read all the great things it will do for your car. I use it my trans- motor- power steering and rear end. A story I hear is that it supposed to help our starters from working as hard to start a cold engine if this so our starters cost about 900.00 to 1100.00 to get replaced by the dealer it might just make our starters last a bit longer.
Old 03-16-08, 01:11 PM
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All speculative information. Again synthetics main advantage is durability.. That is it. You can wait a long time between changing the oil. Quite frankly, I don't like that. Car manufacturers do because it is a nice thing to sell to a customer and keeping synthetic in, changing once a year, would be more apt to occur than every 3-5k on Dino by people who just don't get that oil is very important.

I used to be big into synthetic for motor oil ,.. but after alot of research I've come to the above conclusion.

Now synthetic for Transmissions and so forth I value a great deal. Due to the length of time we do leave fluids in the tranny's, differentials and so on -- It makes sense to have a very durable compound. The heat properties are also nice.

Though if it makes you feel more comfortable, spend the money on synthetic,.. no harm. I just don't like the extreme (1yr) changes because I don't like oil and especially a filter sitting there for that long.

Also, a simliar result from the 'weight' of the oil could be achieved with a dino oil of a lesser weight than normal for hot climates. (Which is why some smart people use Xw-Y in winter and Aw-B in summer)

Not trying to knock your synthetic,.. it is not any worse than Dino -- I just don't think it is any better than Dino while both are 'new' and during their comparative 3-5k or 15k intervals.

Some people will even go so far to say an engine will do better in the long run off Dino vs Synthetic. I don't take that stance...

But the Dino has been proven in 99.9% of the highest mileage cars in the world.. The Synthetic has not.. (Due to rarity of use compared to Dino, and the 'relative' newness in comparison to Dino).
Old 03-16-08, 05:51 PM
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Bill Dowd
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Hi Neofate thanks for the come back on synthetic oil I did a years research on all type of oils and even visited a couple of oil companies looking at dino oil verses synthetic oil and found a lot of things that were different. I also looked into independent researchers information on snythetic and dino oils and found many different interesting ideas. Yes dino oil is does a great job and today a person can run dino oil to 7500 miles and still get hundreds of thousands of miles as well as 15,000 miles with snythetic. I drive about 2,000 miles to 3,500 miles per month as a salesman so I am changing oil every few months. I guess the best thing to say what ever kind of oil a person uses change it when it is needed and your lexus will last hundreds of thousands of miles.

Last edited by Bill Dowd; 03-16-08 at 06:03 PM.
Old 03-16-08, 10:24 PM
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Yup -- wasn't trying to argue with you Bill.. just my take on things. We all have our opinions and experiences. Be dull if without it

You drive quite a bit,.. =)

My biggest thing is change your oil and filter every 3k and your golden. People can push to 5k easily on Dino.. but it isn't THAT expensive.. so given what is at stake.. just get it done every 3k, ya know?

So many people who neglect an oil change just do it because they don't realize the severity of what they are doing,.. or just don't care. There is no excuse anymore -- Anywhere you live you can get an oil change sitting in your car in 10-15minutes max. (I prefer to change my own, but to each his own).

I remember when I was 16 , a friend of mine had an older friend (like 38 or so..) he was rich and had a new M3 (I believe) -- Anyhow.. he got it and never changed the oil.. 18 months later he had it in the shop and just didn't know why. They quickly informed him it might have something to do with the black TAR in the engine

He basically cost himself thousands of dollars because he didn't spend, oh,.. 80$ total on the oil changes he needed.

He's rich though, right? Who cares ? -- It did put him at an inconvenience having to deal with it, so that still makes even he richest person want to avoid it.

Pet peeve are women who drive around without an oil change for like a year,.. and then CONTINUE to drive with a big red oil light on for weeks on end. It amazes me.

(No disrespect meant to any women on here.. if you are here, you know your stuff )
Old 03-17-08, 10:01 PM
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Bill Dowd
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Neofat this is great come back and yes a lot of people don't take care of thier cars my living depends on my car it is on the road 5 to 6 days a week 10 to 12 ours a day including 3to4 hours in bumper bumper traffic here in Southern California. I am under the hood 2-3 times a week just checking everything this way I know my lexus will run 300 to 400,000 miles.
Old 03-17-08, 10:27 PM
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Indeed your lexus will run 400k -- If maintained it will beat 400k, it will do every bit of what your cressida did. I say the LS is a lost cause (engine wise and perhaps tranny) at 600k plus.. 500k is pushing it. At that point if the shell is exceptional and interior (rarely).. then a 'used' lower mileage engine swap and maybe tranny is worth it. Otherwise, just get rid of it or part it and get another one

Smart man being so cautious , checking your fluids and visual inspection of things under the hood that often. You are right, so many (the majority) of people don't.. and it leads to very inconvenient problems in the middle of a work day or trip, general errands whatever it might be. (When 99% of the time it could have been prevented by looking at things and noticing wear and tear or low fluid levels etc) -- Sort of why they call it preventative maintenance


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