SW07ES

Typical bogus advice of an American air conditioning company. Nippondenso builds compressors capable of lasting 500,000 miles (if they are operated correctly) which no American brand compressor can come close to.

Reminds me of the bogus advice American automakers & mechanics used to give the American public about Japanese cars (in the 70's & 80's): "The engines of those Jap imports are geared to spin at high RPM at freeway speeds so they will wear much faster than a slow turning American car engine."

damon

No offense but that is spoken like a man that has not paid for 3 compressors & service.
AC system repair cost is a known entity in our LS community it has not struck only my father.

My 94 LS has 200K and never any AC service but R-134A refills, I feel lucky but I wish to give it every chance to keep on churning.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Not to jinx myself,.. but my 94 LS, has 229k, and not a single touch on the AC Service.. Believe it or not, factory refridgerant. Blow very cold to this day. I'm not touching it till it starts leaking

Have to many other small things, mainly PS system to worry with.

PD, thanks for the link checking it out now.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

actually it is different, this isnt saying the compressor WILL fail preemptively, its saying there are some minor steps you can take to INCREASE its lifespan....

jboldt

I am replacing the a/c compressor on my 94' this weekend and I am unclear as to the steps necessary after the new compressor and drier are installed. I know I need to add 1.75lbs of R-134a through the low side shrader valve but where & how do I add the 8.5oz of POE 100 oil?

awhiteguy

Usually the oil goes in the compressor before you install it. Pour it in the low (suction) side, and turn slowly by hand to take it in. You also need to know if your replacement compressor has oil already or is shipped dry. They come both ways...

jboldt

Thanks awhiteguy. It was shipped dry so I will add 8oz to the low side port like you said. I am in the process of trying to get the old expansion valve off and it's turning into a nightmare. I am to the point where I am removing all the gold screws & nuts that hold the whole white plastic assembly to the firewall. I just don't know exactly which ones have to be removed and where they all are. Any help would be much appreciated!

nthach

That's what I did to revive my system, PO had Lexus replace the compressor but they didn't change out the TXV/EPC valve O-rings. I replaced all accessible O-rings and the drier with OEM pieces and coated them with Nylog, filled the system with roughly 9 oz. of BVA Auto 100 POE oil - all OEMs say PAG oil, specifically ND Oil 8 is best for automotive AC, but PAGs are sensitive to moisture and POE is proven in HVAC and not as sensitive to moisture but is more prone to electrolysis if moisture is present.

I had a tranny shop do the recharge. I know Toyota stocks a retrofit kit with a new fan switch and all the seals/O-rings/ND Oil 8. The trade equivalent to ND Oil 8 is PAG 46 - but be sure it's double-end capped. Denso/Visteon(Ford)/newer Delphi(GM)/Sanden/Keihin(Honda) compressors DO NOT TOLERATE LOW OIL CONDITIONS. The only compressors that can handle low oil are older GM A6, York and Borg-Warner compressors that use a separate crankcase.

nthach

I work at a Honda dealer and I've seen guys having to replace Denso, Sanden and Keihin/Honda Hadsys compressors due to oil starvation - especially on the newer Odyssey/Pilot/RidgeLine and the Civic Hybrid since Japanese OEMs only use 4-6oz of oil to help improve cooling at the cost of system lubrication. The same problem afflicts Chrysler, BMW/Mini/Rolls-Royce, Mercedes, and VW/Audi/Porsche/Bentley as well as they also use Denso or Sanden compressors.

Our Sienna had a TSB from Toyota stating that pretty much the WHOLE HVAC system had to be replaced due to oil starvation, we ate 2 Denso compressors due to lubrication failure and Toyota had to replace the compressor, condensor, front-end delivery lines, drier, TXV, and evaporator.

awhiteguy

My manual says there are 4 nuts and 2 screws attaching the blower box to the firewall. The first thing I did on my 91 was a new compressor, drier, and expansion valve. I feel your pain, it was a pita. Good luck...

damon

Not sure how many oz of oil are currently in the system of my 94. I was starting to have a lack of cool air issue so I had some maintenance performed.

I added freon & 4 oz of BG Frigi-Quiet II & compressor operation is now much smoother.

My mechanic refused to install the inline filter.
I listen to him on such issues.

jboldt

Thanks again awhiteguy. That blower box diagram is great. Too bad I didn't see it till this morning and I finally got it out last night. Turns out the problem I was having was the sensor that comes off the expansion valve & goes through the firewall. I forgot to disconnect it. I think I'll be ok now but who knows. Thanks again. And can u tell me where you got that blower box diagram? And does anyone know where can get all the o-rings for this system?

jboldt

Ok so I bought a complete A/C o-ring & gasket set from Advance Auto for about $10. The problem I have now is that I need to know the sizes of the o-rings in order to make sure I'm using the right size o-ring for each individual fitting. Specifically, I need to know the size o-ring for the low & high lines going on the compressor, low & high lines where they connect at the firewall(engine bay side) prior to going to the evaporator, and both lines on the drier. Any help would as always be greatly appreciated. Thanks fellas!