Radio replacement
#1
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Radio replacement
Has anyone found a harness to fit 95 ls400 still trying to replace factory unit the shops sound here charges between $100-150 to install radio they all say they will have to rewire the entire system.
#4
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I can't speak for a 95, second gen. But I got so many 'the sub will not work' if you put an aftermarket headunit in. Which is untrue, completely. It is all a matter of proper wiring. The sub amp simply needs a signal going to it, and it operates. Just try to mimic what the factory headunit is doing.
Shops install headunits in Second gen's all day long,.. even just headunits. Some , maybe most, don't get the sub working -- but it definitely doable in first gen. I would venture to guess it is a similar scenario in the second gen.
Shops install headunits in Second gen's all day long,.. even just headunits. Some , maybe most, don't get the sub working -- but it definitely doable in first gen. I would venture to guess it is a similar scenario in the second gen.
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I can't speak for a 95, second gen. But I got so many 'the sub will not work' if you put an aftermarket headunit in. Which is untrue, completely. It is all a matter of proper wiring. The sub amp simply needs a signal going to it, and it operates. Just try to mimic what the factory headunit is doing.
Shops install headunits in Second gen's all day long,.. even just headunits. Some , maybe most, don't get the sub working -- but it definitely doable in first gen. I would venture to guess it is a similar scenario in the second gen.
Shops install headunits in Second gen's all day long,.. even just headunits. Some , maybe most, don't get the sub working -- but it definitely doable in first gen. I would venture to guess it is a similar scenario in the second gen.
#6
Lexus Test Driver
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yup you can make everything work i didnt get a chance to try since i had an aftermarket subwoofer. i got all 4 channels to work by runnin rca into my deck. so im sure if i ran an rca for my sub into the deck it would would some how. but i knoe the GS have a big issue on that one.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
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Not sure if this will help, but check out the diagram:
http://www.lextreme.com/misc.html
Also -- I simply used the sub pre-out (RCA) from my Alpine 9886 unit and sent that signal to my factory amplifer and the sub works fine. It is also separately controlled due to the Sub function of this unit. It was a little under powered by the voltage of that pre-out, so I put in a power driver to bump the voltage and it sounds better than stock of course.
It wasn't hard at all to wire. I used the metra harness for 4 speakers, and my own rig from RCA to regular speaker wire (soldered) for the sub input to amp.
You can use part of the metra for the 95 -- But might as well just manually wire it, no big deal.
This might help as well, these are connections in 95:
Battery / Memory Blue / Yellow Yellow
Ignition / Accessory Gray Red
Ground Brown Black
Power Antenna Black / Red
Pink / Blue Blue
Amplifier Turn On N/A Blue / White
Illumination Green Orange
Dimmer N/A Orange / White
S P E A K E R S O E M C O L O R S T A N D A R D
Front / Right +
Light Green Gray
Front / Right - Blue Gray / Black
Front / Left + Pink White
Front / Left - Purple White / Black
Rear / Right + Red Purple
Rear / Right - White Purple / Black
Rear / Left + Black Green
Rear / Left - Yellow Green / Black
--
The remaining will be the sub out -- This amp , factory, relies on about 3-5volts IIRC (maybe 12, but I think lower) -- from this input. So it has to be powered via the headunit.. which it should do from an RCA pre-out. Again I manually wired this, and went rca splice to regular 18 gauge wire into the factory wire (I think) -- I remember seeing an RCA in the factory wiring, forgot how I used that.. but a speaker wire trace helps alot if you cut it all and start going to town. I used my tracer mainly for finding the sub.
Hope that helps some.
http://www.lextreme.com/misc.html
Also -- I simply used the sub pre-out (RCA) from my Alpine 9886 unit and sent that signal to my factory amplifer and the sub works fine. It is also separately controlled due to the Sub function of this unit. It was a little under powered by the voltage of that pre-out, so I put in a power driver to bump the voltage and it sounds better than stock of course.
It wasn't hard at all to wire. I used the metra harness for 4 speakers, and my own rig from RCA to regular speaker wire (soldered) for the sub input to amp.
You can use part of the metra for the 95 -- But might as well just manually wire it, no big deal.
This might help as well, these are connections in 95:
Battery / Memory Blue / Yellow Yellow
Ignition / Accessory Gray Red
Ground Brown Black
Power Antenna Black / Red
Pink / Blue Blue
Amplifier Turn On N/A Blue / White
Illumination Green Orange
Dimmer N/A Orange / White
S P E A K E R S O E M C O L O R S T A N D A R D
Front / Right +
Light Green Gray
Front / Right - Blue Gray / Black
Front / Left + Pink White
Front / Left - Purple White / Black
Rear / Right + Red Purple
Rear / Right - White Purple / Black
Rear / Left + Black Green
Rear / Left - Yellow Green / Black
--
The remaining will be the sub out -- This amp , factory, relies on about 3-5volts IIRC (maybe 12, but I think lower) -- from this input. So it has to be powered via the headunit.. which it should do from an RCA pre-out. Again I manually wired this, and went rca splice to regular 18 gauge wire into the factory wire (I think) -- I remember seeing an RCA in the factory wiring, forgot how I used that.. but a speaker wire trace helps alot if you cut it all and start going to town. I used my tracer mainly for finding the sub.
Hope that helps some.
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