+1 on others recommendation to drop your pan given the condition of the fluid.

To answer your question, I use an oil extractor I bought at a boat supply store that has long thin tubing that fits perfectly in the fill tube.

 

If you are not able to drop the pan, then you should go ahead and do a fluid flush, as described here: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/trans...ransflush.html

You can come back later, when you have an opportunity to drop the pan, to replace the filter screen and clean the magnets.

 

Dropping the pan would be the preferred way to check the screen. At minimal you can do the partial drain and refill and see how it goes. In this instance, I'd suggest doing this partial drain once a week till the colors goes from brown to red.

Since you are under the hood, check your PS and you may as well do the differential. If you pay to have the differential drained it is about the same cost as a regular oil change ~$30-$45 at an independent shop.

Keep us posted on the results.

 

I was always told doing a flush or anything on a transmission in this condition will only exacerbate the problem. Like putting synthetic in an engine that's already smoking. Is this not the case?

 

Pushing all that crud through the system with flushing is not suggested. Draining and filling with fresh fluid helps in not breaking down the big gunky residues that may be in the system. It remains risky either way because the fresh fluid has cleaners to prevent deposit build-up. One has to do something because letting it get progressively worse leads to a dead tranny.

Drain the pan and inspect the fluid. If it does not have particulates floating in it, the odds improve. The second drain after fresh fluid is introduced is the one to really inspect closely. If it remains free of obvious deposits the odds continue to improve. No guarantees, when it has been neglected for so long though. These are durable trannys so the fresh fluid usually revives it and it is happy again.

Same with the ABS/Trac systems. Keeping the fluid maintained prevents issues from occurring.

 

You may be confusing a flush performed using the transmission's own pump, actually a fluid exchange, with a power flush performed with an external machine. I did not intend to recommend a power flush. Refer to the tutorial.

 

I've always thought that brown fluid was a sign of overheating in the transmission. Wouldn't it be safer to leave it that way?

I know people that has started having slipping problems after changing/flushing the old transmission fluid since new fluid are too thin and you're taking away the old fluid with the particles that is built up in the transmission. Causing more clearance to free up and new fluid can't fill in the slack.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's my understand of brown fluid.

 

No. The additive package in the fluid has been expended. The lubricating and cleaning properties are gone leaving only the base carrier to provide lubricity and attempt to run the tranny as called for. This is where it fails and burns. Same applies to motor oil, PS and differential fluids. The attempt with synthetics is to provide a chemical structure that withstand the breakdown for longer periods but even synthetics will last only so long. There are plenty of oil analysis threads here and other forums that discuss them in detail. The basic premise remains similar.

The tranny is shot after having to work under poor conditions and following a proper change, the tolerances no longer can support proper operation. Slipping, no shifting, etc.

Bottom line, to avoid costly tranny fixes which in these older cars is a killer, change the fluid at regular intervals. Wonder how some cars get to 300K+, good maintenance and fluids are key.

 

Except for power steering pumps. I guess Toyota can't make an o-ring to save their life... I can't believe I have to fix my PS pump for a second time with only 68k on the car.

 

Yup, the small compression parts commonly wear, just like the suspension bushings too. Want to talk irritations about repeat repairs, I'm on the 3-rd starter.

Other wear items will be the A/C compressor, PS pump and rack & pinion. Not all of us will encounter them though.

 

But realize that only withdraws the oil in the pan and thats the same as removing the plug. You'd have to that and refill at least 4-5 time to make sure the oil is actually clean.

 

Hey everyone, I am new here but have been using the forums for a while during my search and purchase (yay!) of my 99 LS 400 a few months ago. I have been meaning to post an introduction with pics and car info but that is on the back burner as I catch up on maintenance. On to my question...


This past weekend I exchanged the ATF from the radiator as described on lexls.com. The car has 85k on it and I don't think the ATF had ever been exchanged, or drained and refilled, as it was a black/brown/dark dark red. Going 2 quarts at a time, I exchanged a total of 10 quarts before it came out red from the radiator.


On the last refill I only used 1.5 quarts (9.5 total refilled) as I wanted to see the level after running it through the gears. I've had a difficult time determining if it is too full (even though I only added 1.5 quarts after the last drain) and am hoping you can help me out.


I checked it this morning (about 45 degrees outside) and it seemed at the proper "C" level. After driving home from work I checked the level (take out the dipstick, clean it, and put if back in for the reading level) and the attached pics show the level I got.


What do you think? Do I have the correct amount even though I added 0.5 quarts less then I drained? There was a little fluid on the wire above the "HOT" area. That thing seems much more difficult to gauge than the engine dipstick.


Thanks in advance!

 

Total capacity is only 8.7qts so i think you might be a little over.

I say drop one qt and check again.

 

Thanks johnnyg66, I think I do need to drain some out. What confuses me though is through the fluid exchange I drained 10 quarts but only added 9.5.

I'll drain some this weekend to get it back within the "HOT" level. Am I going to do any damage driving it to and from work this week (13 miles roundtrip)?

 

Your not overfilled by much. You have been driving it already. Overfilling it can cause seals to bust and you start leaking fluid. Or it pushes out the dip stick and and smokes.

Like said your not off by much but sooner best to drop out some and check it again. My guess your trans may have been over filled some to start.

I think your still ok.