A real DIY CAI for the non-VVTi 1UZFE
06-25-08, 08:23 AM
#17
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Looks sweet... Time to do mine =D.
I remember seeing this thing on the speed channel thats called the tornado or something... all you do is slip it inside your cai and it spins the air, cooling it, and increases horsepower by 5 or so, and one more mpg. costs like 25 bucks. Ill look for a link.
heres a link...
http://www.tornadofuelsaver.com/272/...0dvjrr82iurb96
sorry, 40 bucks =P
I remember seeing this thing on the speed channel thats called the tornado or something... all you do is slip it inside your cai and it spins the air, cooling it, and increases horsepower by 5 or so, and one more mpg. costs like 25 bucks. Ill look for a link.
heres a link...
http://www.tornadofuelsaver.com/272/...0dvjrr82iurb96
sorry, 40 bucks =P
Last edited by Rocan; 06-25-08 at 08:27 AM.
06-25-08, 08:41 AM
#18
Looks sweet... Time to do mine =D.
I remember seeing this thing on the speed channel thats called the tornado or something... all you do is slip it inside your cai and it spins the air, cooling it, and increases horsepower by 5 or so, and one more mpg. costs like 25 bucks. Ill look for a link.
heres a link...
http://www.tornadofuelsaver.com/272/...0dvjrr82iurb96
sorry, 40 bucks =P
I remember seeing this thing on the speed channel thats called the tornado or something... all you do is slip it inside your cai and it spins the air, cooling it, and increases horsepower by 5 or so, and one more mpg. costs like 25 bucks. Ill look for a link.
heres a link...
http://www.tornadofuelsaver.com/272/...0dvjrr82iurb96
sorry, 40 bucks =P
06-25-08, 10:10 AM
#19
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I left the resonator attached to the intake piping that connects from the MAF to the Throttle body. Honestly, it would clean up the engine bay, but it would look like a hack job if I tried to remove it.
Plus you would need to fill the hole in the pipe.
If it helps, then it isn't work it.
So far, the CAI is holding up well. We've been driving all day with it and it doesn't seem to get heat soaked as badly as the stock setup.
Like I said, after I drive with it for a week and everything is still okay. I will take it off, clean up any imperfections, probably take some pictures of the parts and call it done.
Plus you would need to fill the hole in the pipe.
If it helps, then it isn't work it.
So far, the CAI is holding up well. We've been driving all day with it and it doesn't seem to get heat soaked as badly as the stock setup.
Like I said, after I drive with it for a week and everything is still okay. I will take it off, clean up any imperfections, probably take some pictures of the parts and call it done.
06-25-08, 10:40 AM
#20
The intake resonator has a place. There ave been articles online and the engineers who design based on flow dynamics have it there for a reason. When you change the initial intake, you also change how efficient the Helmholtz resonator was initially designed for that particular flow characteristic. The LS400's stock exhaust is a more obvious flow concern than the intake side.
Wikipedia write-up:
Wikipedia write-up:
When air is forced into a cavity, the pressure inside increases. Once the external force that forces the air into the cavity disappears, the higher-pressure air inside will flow out. However, this surge of air flowing out will tend to over-compensate, due to the inertia of the air in the neck, and the cavity will be left at a pressure slightly lower than the outside, causing air to be drawn back in. This process repeats with the magnitude of the pressure changes decreasing each time.
This effect is akin to that of a bungee-jumper bouncing on the end of a bungee rope, or a mass attached to a spring. Air trapped in the chamber acts as a spring. Air, being compressible, has a definite spring constant. Changes in the dimensions of the chamber adjust the properties of the spring: a larger chamber would make for a weaker spring, and vice-versa.
The air in the port (the neck of the chamber) is the mass. Since it is in motion, it possesses some momentum. A longer port would make for a larger mass, and vice-versa. The diameter of the port is related to the mass of air and the volume of the chamber. A port that is too small in area for the chamber volume will "choke" the flow while one that is too large in area for the chamber volume tends to reduce the momentum of the air in the port.
This effect is akin to that of a bungee-jumper bouncing on the end of a bungee rope, or a mass attached to a spring. Air trapped in the chamber acts as a spring. Air, being compressible, has a definite spring constant. Changes in the dimensions of the chamber adjust the properties of the spring: a larger chamber would make for a weaker spring, and vice-versa.
The air in the port (the neck of the chamber) is the mass. Since it is in motion, it possesses some momentum. A longer port would make for a larger mass, and vice-versa. The diameter of the port is related to the mass of air and the volume of the chamber. A port that is too small in area for the chamber volume will "choke" the flow while one that is too large in area for the chamber volume tends to reduce the momentum of the air in the port.
06-28-08, 05:00 AM
#23
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Fuel Economy UPDATE -
I was curious to see what this would do to my mileage. Yesterday was about 88 degrees and very humid in Indiana, but I recently filled up with some 93 BP and set the trip gauge.
Yesterday was mostly my commute to work and back plus a 40 mile round trip stint on the interstate to see some friends.
Last night I decided to fill up (was only at 3/4 of a tank), just to see my mileage.
Put in 5.23 gallons and the trip odo registered 99.8 miles. This about 19.1 MPG which is up by about 1 to 1.5 MPG compared to my other typical daily commutes.
Certainly not a scientific discovery by any means, but I was glad to see almost 20 mpg with mostly in town driving. I was fearful I would see like 15! But I didn't.
Also, drove through one hell of a rain storm yesterday. No problems.
I was curious to see what this would do to my mileage. Yesterday was about 88 degrees and very humid in Indiana, but I recently filled up with some 93 BP and set the trip gauge.
Yesterday was mostly my commute to work and back plus a 40 mile round trip stint on the interstate to see some friends.
Last night I decided to fill up (was only at 3/4 of a tank), just to see my mileage.
Put in 5.23 gallons and the trip odo registered 99.8 miles. This about 19.1 MPG which is up by about 1 to 1.5 MPG compared to my other typical daily commutes.
Certainly not a scientific discovery by any means, but I was glad to see almost 20 mpg with mostly in town driving. I was fearful I would see like 15! But I didn't.
Also, drove through one hell of a rain storm yesterday. No problems.
06-29-08, 10:30 AM
#26
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whered you get that info from? I see nearly 65% of all home made cai kits being made of pvc... never any problem.
Also he has it insulated...
06-29-08, 10:44 AM
#27
Well, I to did a CIA on my ES with PVC piping as a prototype but once, I found the turns, sizes, measurements & adapters I needed. I went on line and purchased all the parts in mandrel bent aluminum intake piping for the final product.
06-29-08, 09:33 PM
#28
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I've read it on other forums, but I don't know any scientific links. I found this though.
http://www.g1teg.org/howto/diy_intake.html
Please DO NOT use PVC pipe to make your intake. PVC pipe can melt at underhood temperatures and release toxic fumes into your car. No one wants to die from using a cold-air intake! Besides PVC piping would look ugly as sin under your hood =)
07-01-08, 11:13 AM
#29
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Polyvinyl chloride = PVC
Chlorine is in your tap water taking a hot bath release chlorine in the air and you breath it in large doses .
Chlorine is a toxic gas that irritates the respiratory system. Because it is heavier than air, it tends to accumulate at the bottom of poorly ventilated spaces. Chlorine gas is a strong oxidizer, which may react with flammable materials.
Chlorine is detectable in concentrations of as low as 1 ppm. Coughing and vomiting may occur at 30 ppm and lung damage at 60 ppm. About 1000 ppm can be fatal after a few deep breaths of the gas.[2] Breathing lower concentrations can aggravate the respiratory system, and exposure to the gas can irritate the eyes.
The best part is what are the plastics already made inside the engine bay made of already? Another version or derivative of PVC ?
If i set fire to my engine the intake is the last of my worries, even the plastic covering on the wires is worse.
Don't spread rumors and half truths without a valid and logical reason.
Chlorine is in your tap water taking a hot bath release chlorine in the air and you breath it in large doses .
Chlorine is a toxic gas that irritates the respiratory system. Because it is heavier than air, it tends to accumulate at the bottom of poorly ventilated spaces. Chlorine gas is a strong oxidizer, which may react with flammable materials.
Chlorine is detectable in concentrations of as low as 1 ppm. Coughing and vomiting may occur at 30 ppm and lung damage at 60 ppm. About 1000 ppm can be fatal after a few deep breaths of the gas.[2] Breathing lower concentrations can aggravate the respiratory system, and exposure to the gas can irritate the eyes.
The best part is what are the plastics already made inside the engine bay made of already? Another version or derivative of PVC ?
If i set fire to my engine the intake is the last of my worries, even the plastic covering on the wires is worse.
Don't spread rumors and half truths without a valid and logical reason.
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