I know I will need custom motor and transmission mounts along with the wiring. Which I know is complicated.
What transmission will I need to do a manual swap? (R154?)
If I choose to buy a 1J that comes with an automatic transmission can I stick with that transmission?

 

please search, your performance oriented questions have all been answered.

1jz is NOT the best option for the LS, the car weighs roughly 3800-4000lbs, the 2.5l motor will NOT put out enough torque to make it worthwhile

IF you decide to go for a swap, 2jz all the way.

again, please search.

 

Last time I checked a 1J is a very potent motor in itself and much cheaper to buy than a 2J. I don't plan on keeping the motor stock, especially if I spend the money to do a swap such as this. I have searched for this information and there is either not much to go on or the posts are from years ago. I'm sure there are other people that would like current information. And if you know something then give me a link, otherwise don't act like you know the information. And I do know how much the car weighs, thats not the point. This is a great chassis and there are to many of them out there just waiting to be tuned, people just need to realize how much fun you could have thinking outside the box.

 

the 1jz is also lacking low end torque, which is what you want with a heavy car and high rear end gearing...

last I checked you can get a nonturbo 2jz for <$1000, a headgasket for 1-200, and a 400hp+ turbo kit for $1200-1600. (+fuel, ecu, timing, and other supporting hardware which you would need for any build.)

you haven't searched enough and you havent searched enough forums (lextreme, TN, etc...). the information is ALL THERE, i know because back when i had similar ideas, when irealized its a lot easier to KEEP the 1uz, mod another car, and build the motor if i'm so inclined in the future. if you've done ANY homework you'd know just how strong the 1uz block is...

oh, and the swap info you read, regardless of the age of the posts, is STILL valid, engines don't just up and change their mounting requirements as they age

why should i give you the link? you've questioned me for every one of my responses, the information you seek is there, use the search, the power of the almighty internet, and find it

 

, well said puredrifter

 

Trying to make any LS400 go fast is an expensive task and kind of pointless, 1JZ will work tho, just will be more annoying for cruising. But no lack of torque on boost. I wouldnt do it though, Rather buy a car with a 1J in it already. Best bang for back is a M90 supercharger.

 

PD at his best.

http://www.1jz.com/

For something different, the 1UR-FSE would be a contrast. At ~380HP, a stock swap will be more than enough to revive a UCF 1X.

WRT the the 1JZ, I think this and the 2GR-FE would be a nice in my '80 Celica. I'd opt for the 2GR since parts are and will be abundant.

 

A 1jz makes more hp/tq stock then the engine in your car. Well at the wheels at least, most 1jz cars dyno at about 260-270hp stock, and the torque is about the same. If my 3450 lbs 1JZ supra with just bolt-ons can run a 12's, a LS400 weighing a couple more hundred pounds should be in the low 13's. At 18psi, and bolt-ons, running in the twelves should be a piece of cake.

The fastest stock twin 1jz cars are soarers running high 11's at about 120mph.

Cost wise, it would cost you a lot, but its a lot better route then finding a NA 2jz and, turboing it.

For the transmission you would probably have two routes, use the auto transmission that comes with the 1jz,and use a custom driveshaft, or find a adapter plate to use the transmission that you already have. If I can put a 1jz in a supra, and someone can put one in a 4 runner, or a Tacoma you can put a 1jz in a LS400.

 

its not a question of if it's possible, 1jz and 2jz use the same mounting points, but rather the RPM the peak torque appears, and the response you're going to get with the factory rear end (VERY high (numerically low) gearing).

 

Wouldnt it just be easier to SC or Turbo the 1UZ? Its been done before and if i can remember correctly, pushed out a buttload of power. Wouldnt have to deal with swapping a whole different motor/wiring/etc. in.

I predict you'll get over a 1JZ swap really quick as you research it more and see what it takes... they always do. Dont get offended, its only true. You see a jillion posts with "What do I do to swap a 1J/2J into my car" Then people tell you to search, then you never see that guy post ever again, he probably sells the car and moves on to the next fad...

 

the difference is that while the JZ series could take a "buttload" of power on a stock block, the 1UZ maxes out at rather low boost with the OEM pistons/rods, the block itself is nearly bulletproof.

 

So wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to upgrade the internals of the 1UZ than to swap in another motor? Which either way he wants to build up anyways?

Either way, more power to you whatever route you go. Lextreme forums would probably have more info about that kind of stuff than here.

 

nope, the going rate for 1uz internals (aftermarket) is rather high, lextreme for example sells a piston/rod combo (lextreme brand) for $1900, and that's NOT including bearings or anything else. so add in the rest of the stuff needed for the bottom end to be complete is going to be at least another $300ish, and then, you are left with a built, NATURALLY ASPIRATED, 1uz. so, another ~$900 for exhaust manifolds and say another $600-800 for an exhaust to be fabbed up, plus the ~$1000-1200 for the supercharger Manifold kit, and then whatever blower you pick, and the fuel injectors, fuel/ignition controller, and upgraded pump among other things...

basically $4000-5000 at LEAST and that is NOT including labor...

 

But that would be one bad *** ls400 =D

 

I beg to differ with Puredrifter. With boost, the 1JZ is an overperformer with respect to its displacement.

Here is my 1JZ dyno sheet on stock twins. Super flat torque curve all the way from full boost. 290 wtq destroys ALL 1UZs. Slap on a single and the sky's the limit.