Whoo hoo, no more clunk in R!
#1
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Whoo hoo, no more clunk in R!
Today I've gotten around to changing my tranny mount which isn't a hard job compared to say the motor mounts and it's a common wear and tear part on the 1LS. I've wished I've had my camera on me, but I didn't. But it's a simple job anyway.
If you want to tackle this job yourself, be sure you have a beefy floor jack and good jackstands. I have the luxury of a lift and support stands at work which made the job go by smoothly.
1. Raise and support the vehicle with a method that works best for you - obviously a lift was best
2. Once the car is supported on jackstands, ramps or it's securely in the air support the tranny. I've used a Lincoln 3/4 ton jack-screw type support stand with the support pad wedged between the oil pan and the mount. The mount is on a aluminum crossmember. If you're on the ground, use a floorjack and a hunk of wood to support the tranny - I'd imagine the oil pan would be OK.
3. DO NOT PROCEED UNLESS YOU'RE ABSOLUTELY SURE THE TRANNY IS SUPPORTED - Using a 14mm socket and a long extension, remove the crossmember to body bolts in a criss-cross fashion. The tranny will drop a little bit, that's ok since you can compensate for that by raising the jack or stand a bit higher. Then with a 12mm socket and the same extension, remove the 4 crossmember to mount bolts. Remove the crossmember.
4. Again with the 12mm socket, remove the 4 mount to tranny bolts and the mount is off.
5. Installation of the new mount is the reverse of removal. I cleaned the crossmember in Ozzyjuice, which amazingly took 18 years of road grime off in 5 minutes. The factory calls for 19ft-lbs on the body to crossmember bolts, I just tightened everything as tight as I could. You can also apply Loctite to the threads on the bolts if it makes you feel better.
Test the car, hopefully any clunking during gear engagement from a standstill should be gone or lessened. This is a pretty easy job, took me 45 minutes from start to finish.
If you want to tackle this job yourself, be sure you have a beefy floor jack and good jackstands. I have the luxury of a lift and support stands at work which made the job go by smoothly.
1. Raise and support the vehicle with a method that works best for you - obviously a lift was best
2. Once the car is supported on jackstands, ramps or it's securely in the air support the tranny. I've used a Lincoln 3/4 ton jack-screw type support stand with the support pad wedged between the oil pan and the mount. The mount is on a aluminum crossmember. If you're on the ground, use a floorjack and a hunk of wood to support the tranny - I'd imagine the oil pan would be OK.
3. DO NOT PROCEED UNLESS YOU'RE ABSOLUTELY SURE THE TRANNY IS SUPPORTED - Using a 14mm socket and a long extension, remove the crossmember to body bolts in a criss-cross fashion. The tranny will drop a little bit, that's ok since you can compensate for that by raising the jack or stand a bit higher. Then with a 12mm socket and the same extension, remove the 4 crossmember to mount bolts. Remove the crossmember.
4. Again with the 12mm socket, remove the 4 mount to tranny bolts and the mount is off.
5. Installation of the new mount is the reverse of removal. I cleaned the crossmember in Ozzyjuice, which amazingly took 18 years of road grime off in 5 minutes. The factory calls for 19ft-lbs on the body to crossmember bolts, I just tightened everything as tight as I could. You can also apply Loctite to the threads on the bolts if it makes you feel better.
Test the car, hopefully any clunking during gear engagement from a standstill should be gone or lessened. This is a pretty easy job, took me 45 minutes from start to finish.
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