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I can't see the extra bushings in the pics but that might be because I'm on my phone posting.
Compare the Dayco pulley on the left (front and back sides in pics 1 & 3) to the original pulley. Note the much larger silver-colored inner surface on the Dayco pulley. That's the inner bushings on both sides that the original bearing doesn't have. So, the Dayco bearing is probably a 17 mm I.D. bearing with flange bushings reducing the I.D. to the stock 12 mm size to fit the bolt.
The current Lexus catalog idler pulley replacement is a Dayco brand (#89154). Apparently, the same idler pulley is used in 2nd Gen ('95 - '97) LS - (shared Lexus part #16604-0F010 with 2nd & 3rd Gen LS). (Gates pulley #36026 same). The Dayco pulley is available online for the low $40's. The idler pulley lists for $63 + tax/shipping at Lexus.
The original idler pulley bearing in the '01 is NSK #BD20-15DUL. Bearing size: 37 mm O.D. x 12 mm I.D. x 15 mm width. This bearing size is not generally available (anymore). In fact, the Dayco (#89154) replacement pulley has a different bearing than the original > #6203RS, and a different size, 17 mm I.D. x 12 mm width. The newer replacement pulley bearing also has flange bushings installed on each side of the 6203 RS bearing to bring the final dimensions of the bearing with bushings to 12 mm I.D. x 15 mm width (equal to OE sizes). Problem: the original pulley bearing may not have the flange bushings that you'd need to re-use if you were going to replace just the bearing. Check the idler pulley bearing to see if it has flange bushings. If it does, you could order a replacement bearing and install it with the bushings.
Tensioner Pulley & Bearing:
Tensioner pulley replacement in 3rd Gen LS is Lexus #16603-0W030 (Dayco #89006). Websites incorrectly show Dayco #89026 as the replacement tensioner pulley - the #89026 pulley is not correct - doesn't fit. (For 2nd Gen LS, Dayco #89055 is the tensioner pulley replacement.)
The correct Dayco #89006 pulley with high-quality bearing is available online for as low as +/- $15. This is far better than buying a whole new Lexus tensioner pulley ($67), or worse, the tensioner pulley and bracket assembly at Lexus for list price of $70 + tax/shipping.
You only need a new bearing in the original tensioner pulley. (You don't need a new bracket, nor do you need the new steel portion of the pulley.) Bearing in the original tensioner pulley is NTN brand #6203LU. Bearing size: 40 mm O.D. x 17 mm I.D. x 12 mm width. This is a very common bearing used in many auto engine applications. It is widely available, but you get what you pay for. Find brand name, Japanese-made bearings like NTN, Naichi, etc. - all are high quality, OE equivalent. Expect to pay around $10 online for a high-quality replacement bearing for this pulley. Install the new bearing in the OE pulley.
For 2nd Gen LS, check the OE bearing number and measure the size; buy new high-quality bearing and replace just the bearing in the OE pulley.
NOTE: Be sure that the tensioner assembly spring is operating correctly before you repair/replace only the tensioner pulley. The tensioner must operate correctly so as to not put undue torque on the alternator and A/C pulley bearings.
This thread is gold. Ordered 2 new bearings for the serpentine tensioner pulley from McMaster. The OEM bearing started making a loud noise so probably better I replace it.
I dont think my idler pulley bearing is making any noise yet so might put that off.
Has Anyone ever had to replace the bearing in the Power Steering Pulley?
No bearing on the PS pulley. It mounts to the PS pump shaft and drives the pump. There's a bearing inside the PS pump but that's a completely different issue...
No bearing on the PS pulley. It mounts to the PS pump shaft and drives the pump. There's a bearing inside the PS pump but that's a completely different issue...
awesome, that's what I like to hear. I guess I should have replaced the serpentine tensioner and idler bearings when I did the 90k maintenance at 270k
With mileage like that the tensioner itself should be replaced as the spring inside it eventually becomes weak. It's not a quick job though as it's buried deeper than you think. TB service is the perfect time to do it...
Well I already did the timing belt job recently so I won't be tearing things apart again for awhile. Luckily the spring in mine seems fine. Tensioner pulley bearing started making noise though so I will replace that
I just ordered some new NTN bearings off Ebay a few days ago. Got both the tensioner and idler bearings for 14.79 shipped through the same seller. I'll let you know how they are when I have them installed.
I've been getting this noise only when cold so I figured the bearings are getting old and the grease is no longer doing its job and is used up or dried out. Plus there might be some bearing wear so I figured I'd do both. If that doesn't take care of it, then next is the serpentine belt.
Apparently it is a common bearing used for alternators, power steering, clutch pilot, generators, A/C compressors, etc.
Remember to buy TWO (2) of them.
in my 98 ucf20 the OEM serpentine tensioner pulley only had 1 bearing in it.
The serpentine idler pulley seems like it might have more than one, though
I just replaced my Idler and Tensioner bearings. The ones I linked two posts above are an exact fit. They took about 15 min or so to press in and out with my rented balljoint remover from Oriellys, its basically a big C-clamp with a screw. I also had a 1/2" impact gun to hammer them in/out and 22mm socket so that made it easy, but I guess you can also do it manually, might take a little longer though.
Here's some pics:
The pulleys as I removed them. The Idler bearing is shot, grinds and is very rough when spun, idler was OEM and had NSK stamped on it so I'm thinking its all original with 286k miles. My tensioner bearing was still good so I saved it just in case. That bearing isn't OEM, has made in China on the covers so someone probably replaced the tensioner pulley or assembly in the past. I still replaced both anyway since I bought new ones.
OEM Idler
cleaned them with brake cleaner to confirm the numbers: 6301 for idler and 6203 for tensioner
New bearings pressed in. Had to use a 13mm socket to push out the idler and a 17mm socket for the tensioner. I used the old bearings to get the new ones in. On the idler pulley, I used a flat washer combined with a 24mm socket for the final 10% since the old bearing was starting to get pressed back in! oops! I quickly pryed it out with a flathead once I realized this. For the tensioner pulley, I used the old bearing to push it all the way in.
quality post, so i guess there's only one bearing in the idler pulley huh? My friend seemed to think there was 2. Works for me!
yeah on my 97' non vvti engine there is just that one. The bearing I removed was an NSK, so I have full confidence it was original. I didn't see a sleeve or anything come off when I removed it.
Pulley lined up perfectly with the others, just as I had removed it.
Notice the inner sleeve on my 98 idler pulley and the replacement pulley. I guess your 97 is different.
yeah it must be only a 98+ thing. The engine is slightly different, so I presume there are tweaks here and there. I'm just glad all I had to do was swap bearings and I was done. This was the easiest part of the job.
The damn clutch fan stumped me for a bit since I forgot how to remove it. Then I realized I could use my 3/8th's extension with ratchet to put some weight on one side to keep it from spinning while loosening the other 12mm nuts. I know there's probably a tool, but I didn't have it at the time.
As for an update, my engine is A LOT quieter now especially when the temperatures are below 25 outside on a cold start. It used to make chirping noises for the first five minutes when warming up but now all I hear is the engine on fast idle. So not bad for $15.
08-20-16, 07:06 PM
