LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

tick tick goes the 4.0 ?

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Old 03-01-11, 08:30 PM
  #31  
dvourthis
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my 97 "ticks" but i know its an exhaust manifold leak.....
Old 03-04-11, 10:20 PM
  #32  
Amskeptic
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You can distinguish between exhaust leaks and valve ticking by how the noise changes under load. Exhaust will get worse under load, and is commonly worse when cold.

I went through the valve adjustment procedure as mentioned earlier up in this thread and elsewhere. I had the noisy tacktacktacktack at the left rear intake area. Adjusted the valves . . . carefully. Tacktacktack came back, wtf?

Tore the valve covers off again, and this time removed the camshafts (replaced the timing belt while I was here as well). UNDER the #7 intake lifter bucket was the culprit . . . the valve stem was shellacked with goop and there was oil starvation between the valve and the lifter bucket's hardened pad. The clearance had opened up over .010" of an inch. You could see the valve stem trying to drill its way through the lifter bucket. Replaced the bucket, adjusted the valves reassembled this mess, and have enjoyed well-lubricated whisper hush serious V8 performance ever since. The work is quite easy if you are well focused and methodical:





Old 03-05-11, 06:07 PM
  #33  
randal
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Originally Posted by Amskeptic
You can distinguish between exhaust leaks and valve ticking by how the noise changes under load. Exhaust will get worse under load, and is commonly worse when cold.

I went through the valve adjustment procedure as mentioned earlier up in this thread and elsewhere. I had the noisy tacktacktacktack at the left rear intake area. Adjusted the valves . . . carefully. Tacktacktack came back, wtf?

Tore the valve covers off again, and this time removed the camshafts (replaced the timing belt while I was here as well). UNDER the #7 intake lifter bucket was the culprit . . . the valve stem was shellacked with goop and there was oil starvation between the valve and the lifter bucket's hardened pad. The clearance had opened up over .010" of an inch. You could see the valve stem trying to drill its way through the lifter bucket. Replaced the bucket, adjusted the valves reassembled this mess, and have enjoyed well-lubricated whisper hush serious V8 performance ever since. The work is quite easy if you are well focused and methodical:
Thank you, Amskeptic, for that information. I commend you for digging in and figuring out the root cause. Not for the faint-hearted but as you show, it is within the skill level of those of us who will take the time, be focused and methodical. Props on a job well done!
Old 03-06-11, 10:03 PM
  #34  
gemigniani
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Originally Posted by Amskeptic
the valve stem was shellacked with goop. Replaced the bucket
Great info. Amskeptic. Are you saying there was thick varnish/sludge of some sort under the lifter bucket that blocked oil circulation? Your valvetrain looks clean to me so I wonder how that goo happened? Previous owner stretched oil changes?

Also, did you get a new lifter bucket from the dealer or a junkyard 1UZ-FE? Any fitmint / clearance issues using a new lifter inside a worn lifter bore? Thanks.
Old 03-07-11, 05:29 PM
  #35  
Amskeptic
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Originally Posted by gemigniani
Great info. Amskeptic. Are you saying there was thick varnish/sludge of some sort under the lifter bucket that blocked oil circulation? Your valvetrain looks clean to me so I wonder how that goo happened? Previous owner stretched oil changes?

Also, did you get a new lifter bucket from the dealer or a junkyard 1UZ-FE? Any fitmint / clearance issues using a new lifter inside a worn lifter bore? Thanks.
Yes, gooey coffee-colored varnish. There is an Actual Answer as to why #7 intakes are so susceptible to being out of adjustment. The circulation of crankcase vapors is introduced on the right bank and driven to the left bank where it is ingested by the intake manifold. That's why the left bank is always dirtier looking than the right bank which takes in the fresh air from the air filter box. Interesting, huh? It is here in the upper reaches of the left head air space that still-cool moisture-laden oil vapor is far more prone to leaving sludgy goo.

The PO was a short distance winter commuter in NYC. Synthetic oil may be less prone to leaving these goopy deposits that prevent what is somewhat poorly engineered splash lubrication between the stem tips and buckets. New bucket was $13.00 from Sewell Lexus in Dallas (no way I would use used parts inside of these beautifully precise engines), it fit fine in its bore. Change your dino oil frequently in winter if you are a short-drive commuter and I think you'll be fine. I refuse to start the engine unless it is getting a good full warm-up work-out. The entire lubrication system and exhaust runs have to get above 200* to evaporate the acidic exhaust condensate in all of those crankcase/head passages and in those expensive silencers and joints.
Colin
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