LS400 1991 Engine wash now car run bad. [me like home sky is blue right now]
#16
I open the spark plug area is easy from begining to end, I found one spark plug with moisture and one that is wet so I clean the plugs and put it back clean all the spark plug wires and do oil change, clean all the contacts with compressed air, but is still not running good any way thanks guy. I will buy a new spark plug wires and spark plug then it will run good, beause on of the wires is cut I put a tape on it. It did not work is still idle rough and misfire.
Last edited by newconcept; 11-01-08 at 11:19 PM.
#20
You got water in the spark plug tubes this is where the spark plugs are, i have seen this problem before you will have get air into the spark plug tubes and dry them out this should clear up this problem.
#23
I am now just started to use the iridium plugs and they are great I understand you can run them up to 100,000 to 120,000 miles this is something I have to see. I did run my platium plugs to 102,000 miles and they looked great nice and gray and hardly any loss of the tip. Also I ran Arco gas the 102,000 miles and the plugs are perfect and no carbon in the valve area. I had heard that Arco gas wasn't as good as other gas on the market place I asked the people here in the Los Angeles area gas refinerys and they said all gases are about the same?????
#25
I am now just started to use the iridium plugs and they are great I understand you can run them up to 100,000 to 120,000 miles this is something I have to see. I did run my platium plugs to 102,000 miles and they looked great nice and gray and hardly any loss of the tip. Also I ran Arco gas the 102,000 miles and the plugs are perfect and no carbon in the valve area. I had heard that Arco gas wasn't as good as other gas on the market place I asked the people here in the Los Angeles area gas refinerys and they said all gases are about the same?????
Arco uses a generic add pack and slightly more ethanol than usual.
#26
On an older car (like 1976 and older in general) its OK to run the engine when washing... in fact its recommended.... especially if its a 1974 and older model with "points" rather than an electronic
distributor.
One thing you mentioned has me confused. I have always been told to never wash a hot engine unless its on. I have been told that cold water on a hot engine could crack the block.
I guess if you are using hot water to wash it, then it would be OK if the engine was hot? Is that what you are referring to?
I had washed engines on my older American cars with no fanfare, but when I got one of my first imports in the late 90s (Honda) it was an 80s Honda... a 88' Civic if I recall. I washed the engine and regretted it for awhile... it misfired for days. It had for wet down in the plugs. Then I washed the engine on another Honda... again- same problem. I vowed then and there I would not wash another engine on a newer car.
distributor.
One thing you mentioned has me confused. I have always been told to never wash a hot engine unless its on. I have been told that cold water on a hot engine could crack the block.
I guess if you are using hot water to wash it, then it would be OK if the engine was hot? Is that what you are referring to?
I had washed engines on my older American cars with no fanfare, but when I got one of my first imports in the late 90s (Honda) it was an 80s Honda... a 88' Civic if I recall. I washed the engine and regretted it for awhile... it misfired for days. It had for wet down in the plugs. Then I washed the engine on another Honda... again- same problem. I vowed then and there I would not wash another engine on a newer car.
NEGATIVE. Do not wash your engine bay while the car is running. If it can damage electrical components while your car is NOT running, what do you think the consequences of current arcing while they are in use?
Proper way to wash your engine:
1) Make sure engine bay is nice and hot. After quick 10 minute drive. Engine and all electrical is now off. Disconnect and remove battery.
2) Cover all electrical components with glads sandwich bag or plastic wrap.
3) Buy some of that OrangeBrite or suitable engine foam cleaner. Spray liberally. Give it the suggested time to loosen the grime and oil.
4) Give it a wash.
5) With the baggies still on, go ahead and use compressed air (not the can stuff, from a compressor) and blow the remaining moisture off. Take baggies/wrap off and repeat, be sure to be sensitive around the sensor areas not to blow directly into them (like the MAF sensor) as it may damage them.
Proper way to wash your engine:
1) Make sure engine bay is nice and hot. After quick 10 minute drive. Engine and all electrical is now off. Disconnect and remove battery.
2) Cover all electrical components with glads sandwich bag or plastic wrap.
3) Buy some of that OrangeBrite or suitable engine foam cleaner. Spray liberally. Give it the suggested time to loosen the grime and oil.
4) Give it a wash.
5) With the baggies still on, go ahead and use compressed air (not the can stuff, from a compressor) and blow the remaining moisture off. Take baggies/wrap off and repeat, be sure to be sensitive around the sensor areas not to blow directly into them (like the MAF sensor) as it may damage them.
Last edited by 91LS400LEX; 11-18-08 at 05:40 PM.
#30
One thing I should add -
If you're changing your plugs, it's a good idea to apply some dielectric grease on the inner plug boots to help seal out dirt and moisture as well as help make removal slightly easier. Don't use silicone spray or plain petroleum based grease.
If you're changing your plugs, it's a good idea to apply some dielectric grease on the inner plug boots to help seal out dirt and moisture as well as help make removal slightly easier. Don't use silicone spray or plain petroleum based grease.