brake pedal still pulsating after rotor and brake pad change
01-25-09, 06:09 PM
#31
lmao...so everytime u have excessive run out u should? just go buy new rotors? leave the old ones on and deal with the vibration? the only way it will pulsate again in a short period of time is if the job wasnt done correctly, e.g.>>>>the slide points were not lubed or the caliper is bad and sticking, this is why there is a book that indicates the specs of each cars rotors and tells u the discard measurement.....also rotor run out can be caused by improper torqueing of the lug nuts
http://books.google.com/books?id=mNIhYSCBfmUC&pg=PA171
&lpg=PA171&dq=discard+measurements+for+brake+rotors&source=web&ots=EdWSDxRZHK&sig=dJswY8n6J3UORQn4gAy8pOW4t5c&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=1&ct=result#PPA172,M1
refer to fig. 172
http://books.google.com/books?id=mNIhYSCBfmUC&pg=PA171
&lpg=PA171&dq=discard+measurements+for+brake+rotors&source=web&ots=EdWSDxRZHK&sig=dJswY8n6J3UORQn4gAy8pOW4t5c&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=1&ct=result#PPA172,M1
refer to fig. 172
01-26-09, 06:36 AM
#32
i'm not trying to be an *** or state i know it all.
From my experience and others as well, i find that first, you should not have excessive run out with a new rotor. Period. Over the life of the rotor it will eventually wear down to a point it is out of spec. Then it should be replaced.
Between the time of purchase and being worn out, you should not have to turn your rotor at all. Pad material builds up on the rotor which can cause pulsating.
I feel that removing material from the rotor reduces it's mass, reduces it's design criteria and reduces it's life. Also, removing rotor material from the rotor allows it to heat faster due to less material to spread heat over.
don't have any specific equation to prove that, but i have found it to be true.
If you get over 100,000 miles on a set of rotors from the factory, why not spend a few extra $$ and get a new OEM set to last the same amount of time. If you are trying to cut costs on all your parts you should have bought a chevy.
not attacking, just saying IMHO.
From my experience and others as well, i find that first, you should not have excessive run out with a new rotor. Period. Over the life of the rotor it will eventually wear down to a point it is out of spec. Then it should be replaced.
Between the time of purchase and being worn out, you should not have to turn your rotor at all. Pad material builds up on the rotor which can cause pulsating.
I feel that removing material from the rotor reduces it's mass, reduces it's design criteria and reduces it's life. Also, removing rotor material from the rotor allows it to heat faster due to less material to spread heat over.
don't have any specific equation to prove that, but i have found it to be true.
If you get over 100,000 miles on a set of rotors from the factory, why not spend a few extra $$ and get a new OEM set to last the same amount of time. If you are trying to cut costs on all your parts you should have bought a chevy.
not attacking, just saying IMHO.
01-26-09, 11:24 AM
#33
i'm not trying to be an *** or state i know it all.
From my experience and others as well, i find that first, you should not have excessive run out with a new rotor. Period. Over the life of the rotor it will eventually wear down to a point it is out of spec. Then it should be replaced.
Between the time of purchase and being worn out, you should not have to turn your rotor at all. Pad material builds up on the rotor which can cause pulsating.
I feel that removing material from the rotor reduces it's mass, reduces it's design criteria and reduces it's life. Also, removing rotor material from the rotor allows it to heat faster due to less material to spread heat over.
don't have any specific equation to prove that, but i have found it to be true.
If you get over 100,000 miles on a set of rotors from the factory, why not spend a few extra $$ and get a new OEM set to last the same amount of time. If you are trying to cut costs on all your parts you should have bought a chevy.
not attacking, just saying IMHO.
From my experience and others as well, i find that first, you should not have excessive run out with a new rotor. Period. Over the life of the rotor it will eventually wear down to a point it is out of spec. Then it should be replaced.
Between the time of purchase and being worn out, you should not have to turn your rotor at all. Pad material builds up on the rotor which can cause pulsating.
I feel that removing material from the rotor reduces it's mass, reduces it's design criteria and reduces it's life. Also, removing rotor material from the rotor allows it to heat faster due to less material to spread heat over.
don't have any specific equation to prove that, but i have found it to be true.
If you get over 100,000 miles on a set of rotors from the factory, why not spend a few extra $$ and get a new OEM set to last the same amount of time. If you are trying to cut costs on all your parts you should have bought a chevy.
not attacking, just saying IMHO.
case in point, turning 2 rotors at my local NAPA autoparts costs me between $16-20, and generally needs to be done Maybe once every 20-30k mi, (though i do have a habit of doing it pretty much every time we need brake pads, which is generally longer, around 40k mi) and it saves me over $200 from OEM rotors and ~$140 from buying new Brembo blanks.
01-26-09, 12:10 PM
#34
i'm not trying to be an *** or state i know it all.
From my experience and others as well, i find that first, you should not have excessive run out with a new rotor. Period. Over the life of the rotor it will eventually wear down to a point it is out of spec. Then it should be replaced.
Between the time of purchase and being worn out, you should not have to turn your rotor at all. Pad material builds up on the rotor which can cause pulsating.
I feel that removing material from the rotor reduces it's mass, reduces it's design criteria and reduces it's life. Also, removing rotor material from the rotor allows it to heat faster due to less material to spread heat over.
don't have any specific equation to prove that, but i have found it to be true.
If you get over 100,000 miles on a set of rotors from the factory, why not spend a few extra $$ and get a new OEM set to last the same amount of time. If you are trying to cut costs on all your parts you should have bought a chevy.
not attacking, just saying IMHO.
From my experience and others as well, i find that first, you should not have excessive run out with a new rotor. Period. Over the life of the rotor it will eventually wear down to a point it is out of spec. Then it should be replaced.
Between the time of purchase and being worn out, you should not have to turn your rotor at all. Pad material builds up on the rotor which can cause pulsating.
I feel that removing material from the rotor reduces it's mass, reduces it's design criteria and reduces it's life. Also, removing rotor material from the rotor allows it to heat faster due to less material to spread heat over.
don't have any specific equation to prove that, but i have found it to be true.
If you get over 100,000 miles on a set of rotors from the factory, why not spend a few extra $$ and get a new OEM set to last the same amount of time. If you are trying to cut costs on all your parts you should have bought a chevy.
not attacking, just saying IMHO.
01-26-09, 03:54 PM
#35
damn you guys are defensive as ****.
I'm not trying to start a pissing match. There are plenty of mechanics that have no issues with turning rotors. Fine by me.
I personally have never seemed to have luck with turned rotors. No matter what brand or who turns them. They will stop great for a little while after being turned but always in my experience seem to pulsate again shortly after.
That is my experience.
good luck with your turned rotors.
I'm not trying to start a pissing match. There are plenty of mechanics that have no issues with turning rotors. Fine by me.
I personally have never seemed to have luck with turned rotors. No matter what brand or who turns them. They will stop great for a little while after being turned but always in my experience seem to pulsate again shortly after.
That is my experience.
good luck with your turned rotors.
01-26-09, 05:10 PM
#36
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atoyot u must be hard as hell on them rotors! I use about 1/32 of front pad in 10,000 miles. Have u ever had your brakes bleed? I hate turning rotors your my kind of customer! I worked @ a very high end shop once & they didn't even have a brake lathe..peace but pro kill
01-26-09, 08:09 PM
#37
Not to keep this going but I agree with Pure that there is a minimum thickness for a reason. I always thought the added thickness was there in order for them to be turned. Seems silly to make them much thicker than minimum spec if they are not meant to be turned? I have turned my rotors only once and have 232k miles on the car. I guess it is pretty good given the car is a 95.
Now, I am using ceramic pads and can't comment on whether they cause deposits, etc. I only swapped OEM out to reduce dust and I did.
Clearly, I need to replace the rotors if I have less than minimum thickness. Since Brembo's are inexpensive I think I will go that route if I can't turn mine.
Now, I am using ceramic pads and can't comment on whether they cause deposits, etc. I only swapped OEM out to reduce dust and I did.
Clearly, I need to replace the rotors if I have less than minimum thickness. Since Brembo's are inexpensive I think I will go that route if I can't turn mine.
01-27-09, 08:01 AM
#38
the more i think about this the more i believe that most of my issues with rotors have been on "heavy" vehicles. The brakes on trucks that are 6,000 lbs or running 37 inch tires are working much harder then on the LS.
I am still new to the LS, so i will see how these rotors do. Right now they stop smooth as butter. Checked my pads and rotors the other day while investigating the bleeder valves and they have Lexus pads on and the rotors look to be relatively new OEM.
Time will tell.
Peace out....
I am still new to the LS, so i will see how these rotors do. Right now they stop smooth as butter. Checked my pads and rotors the other day while investigating the bleeder valves and they have Lexus pads on and the rotors look to be relatively new OEM.
Time will tell.
Peace out....
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