Instrument Cluster Circuit Board is Bad! $1000 bucks!!!
04-28-08, 08:48 PM
#227
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Help
1991 Ls-400 Mileage Meter Stop ,cant See Clock Or Air Condition Temperature, And Also Need Fog Lamp Bulbs, Can I Get Some Help
New To The Lexus But Loving My Ls-400
1991 Ls-400 Mileage Meter Stop ,cant See Clock Or Air Condition Temperature, And Also Need Fog Lamp Bulbs, Can I Get Some Help
New To The Lexus But Loving My Ls-400
04-30-08, 12:51 PM
#229
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I replaced the circuit board on my 93 LS 400 in 2000, and now I am having the same problem with the new one. They don't make new ones, they are the same as the originals.
07-28-08, 08:42 PM
#231
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replacement cluster on ebay
I may have the cheap inexspensive answer there is a guy from o.c calif. that ssells and repairs these cluster gauges for the lexus he matches your milage with a rebuilt easy to install 4 bolts and easy plug in a girl can do it ???LOL for around 300.00 heres his email or you can find him on ebay keyword cluster gauge ****info@laspeedometer.com **
08-11-08, 04:28 AM
#232
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inexpensive and quick way to have your Lexus speedo fixed
I may have the cheap inexspensive answer there is a guy from o.c calif. that ssells and repairs these cluster gauges for the lexus he matches your milage with a rebuilt easy to install 4 bolts and easy plug in a girl can do it ???LOL for around 300.00 heres his email or you can find him on ebay keyword cluster gauge ****info@laspeedometer.com **
I am in the cars business, and I have been using that guy to fix my Lexus speedos issues such as sticky needles, dead needles, unlit backlights...
The guy is real good and reasonnable. I think his website is:
www.LAspeedometer.com
08-23-08, 07:45 PM
#233
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1st Time Poster.
Instructions on page 6 were flawless.
LexLS.com made it even easier.
Bought 3 cap's @ radioshack, spend like 2 hours carefully opening and removing cluster. 20 minutes to solder on the CAP's even though I'm a first time solderer. ( youtube ftw ), while there I dissembled the instrument cluster to fix my sticky needles.
Overall a great day, all problems resolved, spent 20 bucks and here I am.
Instructions on page 6 were flawless.
LexLS.com made it even easier.
Bought 3 cap's @ radioshack, spend like 2 hours carefully opening and removing cluster. 20 minutes to solder on the CAP's even though I'm a first time solderer. ( youtube ftw ), while there I dissembled the instrument cluster to fix my sticky needles.
Overall a great day, all problems resolved, spent 20 bucks and here I am.
09-10-08, 03:31 PM
#234
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The laspeedometer guy wanted $400 bucks to fix the dead instrument panel cluster on my 1994 LS 400 and give a one-year guarantee. Instead, I took a chance on Mister Whizard Technical Services of Manitoba, Canada, and could not be more pleased with the result.
I just installed the repaired unit and it lit up immediately and brightly. The company's initial quote was $289, including shipping both ways, but they charged me only $189 because they found the gauge needles didn't need fixing, which is often the case. You pay them through PayPal.
They've really got their stuff together. They e-mail you a prepaid UPS label and detailed instructions on how to remove and package the unit for shipping, as well as other instructional information. I'm a bit of an idiot manually, but following their instructions, I had no problem removing or re-installing the unit. And they had the repaired unit back to me in about two weeks.
Their guarantee is two years, parts and labor. In view of the service they've provided, I have no doubt they'll honor the guarantee.
Given my experience to date, I can't recommend them too highly. My dealer in Los Angeles wanted TWO GRAND to replace the unit.
Their e-mail address is whizard@mts.net. The Web site is www.mrwhizard.com.
I just installed the repaired unit and it lit up immediately and brightly. The company's initial quote was $289, including shipping both ways, but they charged me only $189 because they found the gauge needles didn't need fixing, which is often the case. You pay them through PayPal.
They've really got their stuff together. They e-mail you a prepaid UPS label and detailed instructions on how to remove and package the unit for shipping, as well as other instructional information. I'm a bit of an idiot manually, but following their instructions, I had no problem removing or re-installing the unit. And they had the repaired unit back to me in about two weeks.
Their guarantee is two years, parts and labor. In view of the service they've provided, I have no doubt they'll honor the guarantee.
Given my experience to date, I can't recommend them too highly. My dealer in Los Angeles wanted TWO GRAND to replace the unit.
Their e-mail address is whizard@mts.net. The Web site is www.mrwhizard.com.
09-11-08, 09:53 PM
#235
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***just joined, 1st post, 1st problem***
'93 LS400
LOL, 'so easy a girl could do it' nice. ;-P
and right on with page 6- as soon as i find a radioshack not closed for the hurricane i am on that- i might have most of that in the garage come to think of it- chasing grimlins...my new favorite sport
this is my first Lexus, but my other ride...
USDM ST-204 [Celica GT] fully swapped with JDM ST-185RC 3S-
GTE 2.0l Turbo Engine. Goodies include: 8.8:1 Pistons, ARP
Head Studs, HKS Metal Headgasket, HKS Turbo Timer,
Blitz Blowoff Valve, 2SRUS MBC, Front Mount Intercooler,
Custom Welded IC Piping, APEX'i Induction Kit/Filter,
AFM/3" Intake/Turbo Inlet [minimal bend], Custom Full 2.5"
DP/BP, AEM UEGO Wideband o2 Sensor/Gauge, 3" Magnaflow High
Flow Cat, GReddy SP2 Catback Exhaust, Kirkasaurus Poly
Motor Mounts, NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, MSD 8.5MM
Superconductor Wires, MSD Blaster 2 Coil, ACT Stage 2
Clutch with Stage 3 Pressure Plate, TRD quickshifter kit
TRD Boost Gauges, KOYO Racing Radiator
Body Includes all stock ST-205 WRC GT4 Body panels, skirts,
wing and hood and Acura RSX Nighthawk Black Pearl Paint.
100% Hand Modified - little or no shop work.
we're on 6gc.net
i hope this site proves as helpful ;-)
'93 LS400
LOL, 'so easy a girl could do it' nice. ;-P
and right on with page 6- as soon as i find a radioshack not closed for the hurricane i am on that- i might have most of that in the garage come to think of it- chasing grimlins...my new favorite sport
this is my first Lexus, but my other ride...
USDM ST-204 [Celica GT] fully swapped with JDM ST-185RC 3S-
GTE 2.0l Turbo Engine. Goodies include: 8.8:1 Pistons, ARP
Head Studs, HKS Metal Headgasket, HKS Turbo Timer,
Blitz Blowoff Valve, 2SRUS MBC, Front Mount Intercooler,
Custom Welded IC Piping, APEX'i Induction Kit/Filter,
AFM/3" Intake/Turbo Inlet [minimal bend], Custom Full 2.5"
DP/BP, AEM UEGO Wideband o2 Sensor/Gauge, 3" Magnaflow High
Flow Cat, GReddy SP2 Catback Exhaust, Kirkasaurus Poly
Motor Mounts, NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, MSD 8.5MM
Superconductor Wires, MSD Blaster 2 Coil, ACT Stage 2
Clutch with Stage 3 Pressure Plate, TRD quickshifter kit
TRD Boost Gauges, KOYO Racing Radiator
Body Includes all stock ST-205 WRC GT4 Body panels, skirts,
wing and hood and Acura RSX Nighthawk Black Pearl Paint.
100% Hand Modified - little or no shop work.
we're on 6gc.net
i hope this site proves as helpful ;-)
09-26-08, 06:43 PM
#236
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hey guys, im goin to DIY the fix myself. Question, If I start the car with no cluster, will that be a problem? and is the c212 cap the fix that fixes the lighting?
09-30-08, 01:04 AM
#237
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I have one strange problem...
My boards were fixed by Mr. Jim, so the lights on the cluster are working great.
My gauges (fuel, temp, RPM...) work great.
Only the SPEED gauge and ODOMETER is not working...
SPEED needle is not moving at all, and ODOMETER is not counting any miledge.
Is there any specific Cap, or something to it?
I know electronics, and I have tools prepared...
Any help, please
My boards were fixed by Mr. Jim, so the lights on the cluster are working great.
My gauges (fuel, temp, RPM...) work great.
Only the SPEED gauge and ODOMETER is not working...
SPEED needle is not moving at all, and ODOMETER is not counting any miledge.
Is there any specific Cap, or something to it?
I know electronics, and I have tools prepared...
Any help, please
11-17-08, 06:36 PM
#238
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So I had the same symptoms as many others and after reading this entire thread I decided to dig in. Just to clarify, my symptoms were...
1. When the outside temp. was approx. below 50 deg. the instrument panel, climate control unit, and radio backlights would not work until the car had sufficient warmup time.
2. The odometer and fuel guage would also not work at all when it was under 50 deg.
3. All of the above mechanisms would flicker many times until finally completely coming on after the car was thoroughly warmed
Please keep in mind that I only replaced the C212 capacitor on the PCU (Power Control Unit) board because this cap has already been proven by others to cause all of these issues. I am also a huge believer in the "if it ain't broke it don't fix it" theory. Please note that this will not fix sticky tach or speedo needles.
So here is a pic of that C212 (10uF 16V) cap that I replaced and therefore fixed all of the above mentioned issues.
Just remember that it is directly above the left corner of the orange connector. Good Luck!
1. When the outside temp. was approx. below 50 deg. the instrument panel, climate control unit, and radio backlights would not work until the car had sufficient warmup time.
2. The odometer and fuel guage would also not work at all when it was under 50 deg.
3. All of the above mechanisms would flicker many times until finally completely coming on after the car was thoroughly warmed
Please keep in mind that I only replaced the C212 capacitor on the PCU (Power Control Unit) board because this cap has already been proven by others to cause all of these issues. I am also a huge believer in the "if it ain't broke it don't fix it" theory. Please note that this will not fix sticky tach or speedo needles.
So here is a pic of that C212 (10uF 16V) cap that I replaced and therefore fixed all of the above mentioned issues.
Just remember that it is directly above the left corner of the orange connector. Good Luck!
11-18-08, 01:50 PM
#239
Well, I think I have a "soon to be failing" cluster as well. It only started this year when it started getting cold... when it drops below 30° when I first start the car, the left side of the cluster comes on, but is not as bright as the right side of the cluster. After about 25 seconds, it brightens to match the right side in intensity. It did not do this last winter, even when we had harsh bitter cold outbreaks in when it got as cold as 10°! This year, its having this behavior at 30°... I am wondering, is this the first sign of a dying cluster and how long after this starts before it dies completely?
For you see, I am giving this car to my mother and already having to put about $500 into it (motor/transmission mounts, power steering pump leaking internally, etc).
Thanks for any info.
For you see, I am giving this car to my mother and already having to put about $500 into it (motor/transmission mounts, power steering pump leaking internally, etc).
Thanks for any info.
