Instrument Cluster Circuit Board is Bad! $1000 bucks!!!
10-06-09, 03:51 AM
#271
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I've re-read all 18 pages of posting. Lots of useful info. Here's my take on the instrument cluster problems:
1. dash has no light when cold. light comes on after inside of car has warmed up - replace C212
2. fuel gauge irregular movement (not moving, sluggish, slow, etc) - replace C142
3. stuck needle(s) - tach, speedometer - this is likely a mechanical problem, open up the whole instrument cluster and examine the back of the tach and speedom and use a Qtip with a light solvent to clean off any noticeable sticky substance.
final note on the cap ratings. the cap is very susceptible to heat. over time, the electrolyte inside the cap dries up and its capacitance value changes (usually to a much lower value) when the temperature drops. the change in the capacitance value means that the timing circuits (oscillator and inverter) will fail to work. As the cabin is warmed up, the cap restores to its nominal value and the timing circuits work again. the repeated flickering means that the capacitance is getting close to its nominal value and the timing circuit begins to kick in and out. as the inside of the cab continues to warm up, the cap finally restores to its nominal value and voila, the timing circuit runs and the cold cathode light is finally on. If you live in the south where summer temperature are always in the 3 digits, you really need a cap with 155C rating so that you don't have to replace them again for years to come.
Thanks again to everyone who gave valuable info on solving these instrument cluster problem. The info has saved me a lot of time and $$$.
1. dash has no light when cold. light comes on after inside of car has warmed up - replace C212
2. fuel gauge irregular movement (not moving, sluggish, slow, etc) - replace C142
3. stuck needle(s) - tach, speedometer - this is likely a mechanical problem, open up the whole instrument cluster and examine the back of the tach and speedom and use a Qtip with a light solvent to clean off any noticeable sticky substance.
final note on the cap ratings. the cap is very susceptible to heat. over time, the electrolyte inside the cap dries up and its capacitance value changes (usually to a much lower value) when the temperature drops. the change in the capacitance value means that the timing circuits (oscillator and inverter) will fail to work. As the cabin is warmed up, the cap restores to its nominal value and the timing circuits work again. the repeated flickering means that the capacitance is getting close to its nominal value and the timing circuit begins to kick in and out. as the inside of the cab continues to warm up, the cap finally restores to its nominal value and voila, the timing circuit runs and the cold cathode light is finally on. If you live in the south where summer temperature are always in the 3 digits, you really need a cap with 155C rating so that you don't have to replace them again for years to come.
Thanks again to everyone who gave valuable info on solving these instrument cluster problem. The info has saved me a lot of time and $$$.
Last edited by lawbut2468; 10-06-09 at 03:55 AM.
10-15-09, 12:02 PM
#272
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As I haven't opened this up yet...
Anyone able to tell me the approximate SMD dimension or size of the capacitors? From the pictures, would it be closer to 3.2mm length and 1.6mm width?
Anyone able to tell me the approximate SMD dimension or size of the capacitors? From the pictures, would it be closer to 3.2mm length and 1.6mm width?
10-16-09, 01:23 AM
#273
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If you look at the picture posted by Ukamath (post #76 on page 6), the original SMD C212 is identical in size to C221 (bottom right on picture under the R266 label.
10-18-09, 08:24 PM
#274
Will non-polarized capacitors work for this application? The only 10uf 50volt capacitor I could find at Radio Shack (just trying to sell the car and don't want to go higher budget than that) is a non-polarized electrolytic capacitor.
10-20-09, 06:30 AM
#276
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Cap Substitution
Hey, reading up on the Caps replacements....Will replacing an Electrolytic cap with say a Tantalum, Mylar, or Ceramic Cap of the same value work? Or is that a Frequency issue?
thanks
thanks
Last edited by Loo-10-ant; 10-20-09 at 06:33 AM.
10-20-09, 08:26 AM
#277
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tantalium is a good replacement. it's more stable and therefore should last longer. you probably won't find a suitable ceramic or mylar replacement as these two types are usually made for small capacitance values (under 1 uF). I hope this info helps.
11-10-09, 07:47 PM
#279
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I've read all 18 pages of this thread looking for a fix for my dead/lazy (sometimes, it would move to 1/4 tank) gas gauge. Everything else on the cluster is working nice and bright. I've checked the different places where I can send it, i.e. Mikado Tech, Mr. Whizard and Jim Walker but I was wondering if there was a place locally in SoCal that can do it. As I was reading on, I was surprised to see that the thread started back in 2003. Anyways, there was a post that showed a place locally (LexusTech) but I am afraid they are no longer open since they do not have their web site up. Does anyone know of a place that does it in SoCal. I would appreciate any info.
11-19-09, 08:07 AM
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Capacitor Substitution
I just replaced the C212 cap with a tantalum non polar cap from Radio Shack as suggested by others on this thread. It works great. I have a 1993 LS400 with 170K miles on it. The dealer "fixed" the dash lighting problem when cold about four years for around $1000 and it only lasted 2 years. They apparently replaced the daughter board. I noticed that the cap on the "new" daughter board was not a surface mount chip cap -- it was actually an electrolitic cap with surface mount tabs instead of wire leads. Anyway the job took about an hour including removing and replacing the dashboard.
11-28-09, 10:08 AM
#282
Bad Instrument CLuster---Here is Your "FIX"
Rebuild the 2 circuit boards that are inside the instrument cluster. $225 This rebuild fixes the most common problems that most people have.
Recondition the needles $150. Many people have partially lit needles. I recondition all 4 needles to restore them to normal and save them from complete failure. Once a needle goes completely out, it cannot be reconditioned. It would require replacement at a much higher cost.
Rebuilding the tach and speedometer gauge assemblies. $250 for both. The tach and speedo have the same problem and if you have one of them that sticks at zero, the other one will do it too after a while. I rebuild them both at the same time for 1 price.
So, it sounds like you just need #3 done unless you have other problems that you haven't mentioned. Also, if I have to remove the circuit boards as in #2 or #3, I check all the incandescent bulbs in the cluster and replace all that need it at no charge. If you have more than one of those above problems such as 1 and 3, I will give you a break in the combined price.
My prices include return shipping using Priority Mail
Jim Walker
1776 W. Wrenwood Ave
Fresno, CA 93711
559-240-5235
TheLexpert@yahoo.com
TERMS AND CONDITIONS
If you have a Lexus LS400 1993 or 1994 and have a problem with Dash Lights (also called Instrument Cluster or Combination Meter) I may have an inexpensive repair that I can do for you. The problem that I'm referring to is very specific and seems to be a fairly common problem among these vehicles.
My Experience:
My own personal 1993 Lexus LS400 began having a problem where the instrument lights would not come on right away especially in cooler weather. They would rapidly blink on and off for a few minutes and finally would come on and stay on for the rest of the day. This condition continued to get worse until they finally just refused to come on at all. In addition to not being able to see the instruments, I couldn't tell the speed or how much fuel I had. As a result, my wife received a speeding ticket and has run out of fuel in traffic! The Lexus dealer here in Fresno wanted about $1400 to repair the problem. They told me that they were familiar with this problem, and that it was fairly common. They told me that I had to replace some expensive circuit boards called the power source behind the instrument cluster. At that point I decided to research the problem and try to repair the problem myself. I am not a mechanic. I'm an electronics engineer. I design a variety of electronic circuitry mostly having to do with security. I design printed circuit boards myself as well.
The Symptoms:
No dash lights
Flickering dash lights
No or flickering dash background lighting
One or more needles not lit or dim
Fuel gauge sometimes won't work (shows empty)
Fuel gauge is slow to come up and never reaches the full mark
Climate control LCD won't display
Climate control button LEDs won't light or flicker in tandem with dash light flicker
Some of the small lights on the center console are intermittent
Dash lights take a long time to come on
Dash lights only work when it's warm or hot
The odometer does not accumulate miles sometimes
The problems seems to be temperature related
The problems are more evident in colder weather
Keep in mind that any one of these symptoms alone can be caused by some other device failure but if you have more than one of these symptoms the likelihood of the power source circuit boards being your problem increases dramatically.
What if I have other problems in addition to what you have mentioned in the symptoms?
Yes, there are other problems that your LS400 can have. I can repair some of those other problems, but they are NOT part of the circuit board rebuild that is being talked about above and there will be additional charges for those other problems if you elect to have me do those repairs for you.
For instance, the LS400 also have another common problem with the actual needles themselves (Temperature, Tachometer, Speedometer, Fuel). Those four needles have a conductive paint on the backs of the needles. When that conductive paint cracks and peels, the needle will only light up partially. For example, the speedometer will only light up half way to the tip of the needle. This is a fairly common problem with all year models of the LS400. If you take your car to Lexus, they can fix the problem for about $500 to $600 per needle!!! Why so much? Because the dealer will replace the whole gauge (such as the speedometer gauge assembly) and that's not including the labor!
Here is what I will do for you instead. For an additional $150 I will remove all 4 of those needles and then remove the conductive paint from them and apply a conductive epoxy. This process is called reconditioning the needles. This will solve the problem of partially lit needles for good. The needle reconditioning is normally $225 if done by itself. That is, if it's not done when I rebuild the circuit boards. When I do both jobs at the same time, I can do the reconditioning part of it for only $150.
There is another, less common problem, that you could have with your instrument cluster needles. You could have a needle (or needles) that do not light at all. Not even momentarily or partially. This condition happens if you allow a partially lit needle to continue for too long. What happens is that the crack in the conductive paint causes a tiny arc and will actually cause the glass needle to fracture at that location. When this happens, the needle cannot be reconditioned. It must be replaced. I have replacement needles for $150 each plus. These needles are not for sale for you to install yourself. I will install them for you (replace the bad one) when I recondition the other needles. For example, if you need your circuit boards rebuilt and you need your needles reconditioned and you need your speedometer needle replaced it will be a total of $225 (for the circuit board rebuild) plus $150 (for the needle reconditioning) plus $150 (for the replacement needle itself). Although this is a very rare example, it does happen occasionally.
In order for me to recondition your needles and/or replace a bad needle, it will require you to ship the whole instrument cluster to me rather than just the 2 circuit boards from within the instrument cluster. If you only need your circuit boards rebuilt, I prefer that you ship only those 2 circuit boards. The needle work, however, requires you to ship the whole instrument cluster. The instrument cluster is much more susceptible to shipping damage than the circuit boards alone. So, if you are shipping the whole instrument cluster, please use lots of bubble wrap on all 6 sides.
Is there any other problems that you fix? Yes, but they are even less common than what I have mentioned so far. If you have another problem that I have not covered so far, please email me with a detailed description of your symptoms and I'll be happy to get back to you right away with a quote.
What about the Climate Control displays. Do you fix those too?
Yes, I have the parts now to repair the 93/94 LS400 climate control displays in addition to the 90-92 LS400 displays that I have had for a few years now. I don't want to cover all there is to cover about that here. If you'll email me and ask for information about having your climate control display replaced, I'll send all the information, prices, etc. Be sure to tell me which year and model you are asking about. For example: Send info on repairing my 94 LS400 climate control display that is turning black and is unreadable at times.
Finding the Problem:
The problems that I have found is that some components have changed value over the years. When these components changed value, the circuits became detuned and damaged other components including an IC (Integrated Circuit). All these components are "surface mount" devices of very fine pitch. It requires specialized equipment to desolder these components as well as to resolder the replacement parts. I do not recommend that your neighborhood electronics repair shop attempt repairs on these boards, they could very easily damage them beyond repair. The copper traces on the boards as well as other near-by components can be easily damaged if the proper equipment is not used. I do have the proper equipment and experience to do these repairs. In addition, I have fabricated a test fixture for testing the repaired boards.
Getting Your Instrument Lights Fixed By Me:
If you have the exact problem and vehicle that is described in this letter and you are interested in having me repair it for you, here's what you have to do:
1. Email me at jimlwalker@sbcglobal.net so that we get to know each other first and so I can make sure you have the correct symptoms and vehicle. I'll also email instructions from the factory manual on how to remove and reinstall the Instrument Cluster (combination meter) and remove and handle the circuit boards.
2. Send me $225 through PayPal, they can take credit cards etc. (go to https://www.paypal.com and read about how to pay someone using their service). It's very easy, you can use a credit card. It's what most people use on EBAY to buy and sell.
3. As soon as I see the $225 deposited in my PayPal account (usually takes about 15 minutes) I will email you back with any final instructions and let you know when to expect them back (usually 4 days total turn-around time).
4. If you are going to have your mechanic swap out these boards, make an appointment with him ahead of time. If you are going to swap them out yourself, give yourself at least 2 hours to remove your instrument cluster. It's really not difficult and only requires a philips screw driver.
5. Pack your boards carefully and get a free shipping box from the Post Office for Express Mail package. They're free when you ship Express Mail. The weight is 2 pounds and the cost is about $21.00 to anywhere in the US. Please don't ask for a signature delivery confirmation because the post office won't leave it at my door if I'm not home. Then I have to try and run it down with the post office and it may delay the whole process. If you're not in a big hurry, you can use US Postal Service Priority Mail. Priority Mail that takes about 2 days average (each way) and only costs about $9. They will give you a free shipping box for this too.
6. Once I have received your boards and have made the repairs. I will email you that they are on their way back to you so that you can schedule your time accordingly. Once you receive your boards back it is very important that you reinstall them with all the correct screws in the right places.
What I Won't Do:
I will not assume any responsibility for any other problems. That is, if you or your mechanic damage something during this process, that's not my responsibility, it's yours! I won't be responsible for anything that you claim used to work before I reworked your boards but now it no longer works. That can be dismissed as you or your mechanic may be at fault for incorrect removal or installation of the boards. I'm not trying to scare anyone away, these are very unlikely scenarios but I just want to protect myself against any type of nuisance or unsubstantiated claims. I won't charge you if I can't fix the "warm / cold intermittent illumination problem". I'll just charge you to ship them back to you if repairs are not possible. I would only retain enough of your funds to ship them back to you (about $30 which includes Paypal fees).
What I Will Do:
I will discuss with you the possibility of me attempting repair of your circuit boards that exhibit the warm / cold intermittent illumination problem but are of a different model such as a 90 - 92 LS400. Another thing I will do is guarantee my work and only my work. Only the components that I replace on your boards, not the whole circuit board. These boards do many different things besides light up the instrument cluster, but that's the only part that I accept responsibility for. Also, I'll send the removal instructions as an attachment to this email.
OK That Sounds Fair What Do I Do Next?
1. Reply to this Email and state in your email that you've read my Terms and Conditions above and agree to them and that you want to proceed. Tell me what year your Lexus is and what model it is. Tell me exactly what your dash lights are doing when they malfunction. Also tell me about any other problems your car has, not that I can do any thing about those other problems, but there could be some interrelated problems.
2. If your vehicle seems to fit the problem that I can help you with I'll then Email the Instrument Cluster, circuit board removal instructions from the factory manual. The attached file is in Adobe Acrobat format. You will need this program installed on your computer in order to view it. It is a free program that you can download by following this link: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html
Recondition the needles $150. Many people have partially lit needles. I recondition all 4 needles to restore them to normal and save them from complete failure. Once a needle goes completely out, it cannot be reconditioned. It would require replacement at a much higher cost.
Rebuilding the tach and speedometer gauge assemblies. $250 for both. The tach and speedo have the same problem and if you have one of them that sticks at zero, the other one will do it too after a while. I rebuild them both at the same time for 1 price.
So, it sounds like you just need #3 done unless you have other problems that you haven't mentioned. Also, if I have to remove the circuit boards as in #2 or #3, I check all the incandescent bulbs in the cluster and replace all that need it at no charge. If you have more than one of those above problems such as 1 and 3, I will give you a break in the combined price.
My prices include return shipping using Priority Mail
Jim Walker
1776 W. Wrenwood Ave
Fresno, CA 93711
559-240-5235
TheLexpert@yahoo.com
TERMS AND CONDITIONS
If you have a Lexus LS400 1993 or 1994 and have a problem with Dash Lights (also called Instrument Cluster or Combination Meter) I may have an inexpensive repair that I can do for you. The problem that I'm referring to is very specific and seems to be a fairly common problem among these vehicles.
My Experience:
My own personal 1993 Lexus LS400 began having a problem where the instrument lights would not come on right away especially in cooler weather. They would rapidly blink on and off for a few minutes and finally would come on and stay on for the rest of the day. This condition continued to get worse until they finally just refused to come on at all. In addition to not being able to see the instruments, I couldn't tell the speed or how much fuel I had. As a result, my wife received a speeding ticket and has run out of fuel in traffic! The Lexus dealer here in Fresno wanted about $1400 to repair the problem. They told me that they were familiar with this problem, and that it was fairly common. They told me that I had to replace some expensive circuit boards called the power source behind the instrument cluster. At that point I decided to research the problem and try to repair the problem myself. I am not a mechanic. I'm an electronics engineer. I design a variety of electronic circuitry mostly having to do with security. I design printed circuit boards myself as well.
The Symptoms:
No dash lights
Flickering dash lights
No or flickering dash background lighting
One or more needles not lit or dim
Fuel gauge sometimes won't work (shows empty)
Fuel gauge is slow to come up and never reaches the full mark
Climate control LCD won't display
Climate control button LEDs won't light or flicker in tandem with dash light flicker
Some of the small lights on the center console are intermittent
Dash lights take a long time to come on
Dash lights only work when it's warm or hot
The odometer does not accumulate miles sometimes
The problems seems to be temperature related
The problems are more evident in colder weather
Keep in mind that any one of these symptoms alone can be caused by some other device failure but if you have more than one of these symptoms the likelihood of the power source circuit boards being your problem increases dramatically.
What if I have other problems in addition to what you have mentioned in the symptoms?
Yes, there are other problems that your LS400 can have. I can repair some of those other problems, but they are NOT part of the circuit board rebuild that is being talked about above and there will be additional charges for those other problems if you elect to have me do those repairs for you.
For instance, the LS400 also have another common problem with the actual needles themselves (Temperature, Tachometer, Speedometer, Fuel). Those four needles have a conductive paint on the backs of the needles. When that conductive paint cracks and peels, the needle will only light up partially. For example, the speedometer will only light up half way to the tip of the needle. This is a fairly common problem with all year models of the LS400. If you take your car to Lexus, they can fix the problem for about $500 to $600 per needle!!! Why so much? Because the dealer will replace the whole gauge (such as the speedometer gauge assembly) and that's not including the labor!
Here is what I will do for you instead. For an additional $150 I will remove all 4 of those needles and then remove the conductive paint from them and apply a conductive epoxy. This process is called reconditioning the needles. This will solve the problem of partially lit needles for good. The needle reconditioning is normally $225 if done by itself. That is, if it's not done when I rebuild the circuit boards. When I do both jobs at the same time, I can do the reconditioning part of it for only $150.
There is another, less common problem, that you could have with your instrument cluster needles. You could have a needle (or needles) that do not light at all. Not even momentarily or partially. This condition happens if you allow a partially lit needle to continue for too long. What happens is that the crack in the conductive paint causes a tiny arc and will actually cause the glass needle to fracture at that location. When this happens, the needle cannot be reconditioned. It must be replaced. I have replacement needles for $150 each plus. These needles are not for sale for you to install yourself. I will install them for you (replace the bad one) when I recondition the other needles. For example, if you need your circuit boards rebuilt and you need your needles reconditioned and you need your speedometer needle replaced it will be a total of $225 (for the circuit board rebuild) plus $150 (for the needle reconditioning) plus $150 (for the replacement needle itself). Although this is a very rare example, it does happen occasionally.
In order for me to recondition your needles and/or replace a bad needle, it will require you to ship the whole instrument cluster to me rather than just the 2 circuit boards from within the instrument cluster. If you only need your circuit boards rebuilt, I prefer that you ship only those 2 circuit boards. The needle work, however, requires you to ship the whole instrument cluster. The instrument cluster is much more susceptible to shipping damage than the circuit boards alone. So, if you are shipping the whole instrument cluster, please use lots of bubble wrap on all 6 sides.
Is there any other problems that you fix? Yes, but they are even less common than what I have mentioned so far. If you have another problem that I have not covered so far, please email me with a detailed description of your symptoms and I'll be happy to get back to you right away with a quote.
What about the Climate Control displays. Do you fix those too?
Yes, I have the parts now to repair the 93/94 LS400 climate control displays in addition to the 90-92 LS400 displays that I have had for a few years now. I don't want to cover all there is to cover about that here. If you'll email me and ask for information about having your climate control display replaced, I'll send all the information, prices, etc. Be sure to tell me which year and model you are asking about. For example: Send info on repairing my 94 LS400 climate control display that is turning black and is unreadable at times.
Finding the Problem:
The problems that I have found is that some components have changed value over the years. When these components changed value, the circuits became detuned and damaged other components including an IC (Integrated Circuit). All these components are "surface mount" devices of very fine pitch. It requires specialized equipment to desolder these components as well as to resolder the replacement parts. I do not recommend that your neighborhood electronics repair shop attempt repairs on these boards, they could very easily damage them beyond repair. The copper traces on the boards as well as other near-by components can be easily damaged if the proper equipment is not used. I do have the proper equipment and experience to do these repairs. In addition, I have fabricated a test fixture for testing the repaired boards.
Getting Your Instrument Lights Fixed By Me:
If you have the exact problem and vehicle that is described in this letter and you are interested in having me repair it for you, here's what you have to do:
1. Email me at jimlwalker@sbcglobal.net so that we get to know each other first and so I can make sure you have the correct symptoms and vehicle. I'll also email instructions from the factory manual on how to remove and reinstall the Instrument Cluster (combination meter) and remove and handle the circuit boards.
2. Send me $225 through PayPal, they can take credit cards etc. (go to https://www.paypal.com and read about how to pay someone using their service). It's very easy, you can use a credit card. It's what most people use on EBAY to buy and sell.
3. As soon as I see the $225 deposited in my PayPal account (usually takes about 15 minutes) I will email you back with any final instructions and let you know when to expect them back (usually 4 days total turn-around time).
4. If you are going to have your mechanic swap out these boards, make an appointment with him ahead of time. If you are going to swap them out yourself, give yourself at least 2 hours to remove your instrument cluster. It's really not difficult and only requires a philips screw driver.
5. Pack your boards carefully and get a free shipping box from the Post Office for Express Mail package. They're free when you ship Express Mail. The weight is 2 pounds and the cost is about $21.00 to anywhere in the US. Please don't ask for a signature delivery confirmation because the post office won't leave it at my door if I'm not home. Then I have to try and run it down with the post office and it may delay the whole process. If you're not in a big hurry, you can use US Postal Service Priority Mail. Priority Mail that takes about 2 days average (each way) and only costs about $9. They will give you a free shipping box for this too.
6. Once I have received your boards and have made the repairs. I will email you that they are on their way back to you so that you can schedule your time accordingly. Once you receive your boards back it is very important that you reinstall them with all the correct screws in the right places.
What I Won't Do:
I will not assume any responsibility for any other problems. That is, if you or your mechanic damage something during this process, that's not my responsibility, it's yours! I won't be responsible for anything that you claim used to work before I reworked your boards but now it no longer works. That can be dismissed as you or your mechanic may be at fault for incorrect removal or installation of the boards. I'm not trying to scare anyone away, these are very unlikely scenarios but I just want to protect myself against any type of nuisance or unsubstantiated claims. I won't charge you if I can't fix the "warm / cold intermittent illumination problem". I'll just charge you to ship them back to you if repairs are not possible. I would only retain enough of your funds to ship them back to you (about $30 which includes Paypal fees).
What I Will Do:
I will discuss with you the possibility of me attempting repair of your circuit boards that exhibit the warm / cold intermittent illumination problem but are of a different model such as a 90 - 92 LS400. Another thing I will do is guarantee my work and only my work. Only the components that I replace on your boards, not the whole circuit board. These boards do many different things besides light up the instrument cluster, but that's the only part that I accept responsibility for. Also, I'll send the removal instructions as an attachment to this email.
OK That Sounds Fair What Do I Do Next?
1. Reply to this Email and state in your email that you've read my Terms and Conditions above and agree to them and that you want to proceed. Tell me what year your Lexus is and what model it is. Tell me exactly what your dash lights are doing when they malfunction. Also tell me about any other problems your car has, not that I can do any thing about those other problems, but there could be some interrelated problems.
2. If your vehicle seems to fit the problem that I can help you with I'll then Email the Instrument Cluster, circuit board removal instructions from the factory manual. The attached file is in Adobe Acrobat format. You will need this program installed on your computer in order to view it. It is a free program that you can download by following this link: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html
12-02-09, 07:38 PM
#283
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Thank You guys!!!
$15 and 3 hours of my time save me so much money! Had similar problem with speedometer - lighting on'n'off all the time and tachometer and speedometer needle was sticking up. Followed the easy instructions and changed c212 cap and wiped the gauge with q-tip! Everything back to normal! Feels great!!! Thank You Guys!!!
$15 and 3 hours of my time save me so much money! Had similar problem with speedometer - lighting on'n'off all the time and tachometer and speedometer needle was sticking up. Followed the easy instructions and changed c212 cap and wiped the gauge with q-tip! Everything back to normal! Feels great!!! Thank You Guys!!!
12-07-09, 12:02 PM
#285
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New Guy Here
Just got my board back for my '93 Ls400. I won an auction on Ebay for 74.00 + 30.00 for shipping. Took two or three weeks and it came back in perfect working order. BBS wa the name of the company and they gave me a lifetime gaurantee. Thought you might be interested.