LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Hello LS forum, 92' LS4 on craiglist and I bought it.

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Old 09-11-10, 09:58 AM
  #226  
vinnie420
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Looks great! I had a Honda with a t3/t4 and it did take forever to spool and worked like a light switch. It had nothing til about 3700 rpm where it started to spool then by 4500 it was shredding the tires. Great in a straight line, but puttinmg the power on in the turns was kind of scary seeing as the car would just go straight. I like smaller turbos. I am thinking about Putting a twin setup on my Lightning with 2 very small turbos instead of 1 huge one so they spool quick and the power should be more linear.

Keep up the good work!!!
Old 09-12-10, 01:00 AM
  #227  
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Originally Posted by 3UZFTE
Hey thanks for the tip. I'm not familiar with welding cable but I'll find out more. Did you just run the power line up and connect it to the old battery connectors or did you re-wire everything? I just need to make sure I have jumper studs so that can access my battery even though my battery's dead and my trunk lock is ****ed. I could probably have my friend bend me a box for a few beers.
I ran it up to the old battery connectors as you said; grounding is done through a bolt that mounts the gas tank.
Old 09-15-10, 09:44 AM
  #228  
3UZFTE
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Hey guys, no update as we're still on the road. As I type we are driving through the farm land of Iowa. Since I brought my mobile wi-fi, I figured I would put some eye candy out for you guys to see as I can't possibly do any work on the road. Anyways, here it is... It's a 95' Ferrari 348 Spider. 3.4 V8 with a 5 speed gear box and tons of fun to drive. As expected flying out there, I think this guy is a huge douche bag, but it turns out he is a hot rodder like most of us. He explained to me the motto of the Ferrari club is never pay for Ferrari unless you have to. He went on to explain that the CV shafts are out of a late Audi, the ECUs are (2) VW Fox ECUs that work in tandem to achieve the goal. About the only thing he said that comes from Ferrari is the oil filter and a few other things. Anyways I'm running low on battery, but here are a few pictures.


Since I am an import boy, I didn't barrow anything, but I basically took a page from the import boys' books and did the 3M painters tape bra to avoid rock chips and bugs on the 1,300 mile trip.


View from either Utah, Wyoming or both I forgot..








The speedo must be a bit off.... I swear I was going the speed limit officer...


Just having a little fun at Cabela's, don't worry, I cleared the check and bought it....

Last edited by 3UZFTE; 09-15-10 at 09:47 AM.
Old 09-17-10, 06:09 PM
  #229  
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Update.
Hey all, we made the trip home and everything held up fine. I wouldn't bet otherwise, which is why I was there in the first place.

Although the trip was fun, it was nice to be back. I would like to say I've accomplished a lot more but unfortunately with customer's cars, last warm Saturday of the year, and a few others, I got a few things done, but now I am waning to build some funds up so I can buy my oil feed line, AN fittings, piggyback, etc. Unfortunately I live in Minnesota and it's probably going to start snowing soon... I gotta get my act in gear!

Here is a bracket that I fabbed up with a SC400 engine cooling fan reservoir and support bracket. I'm pretty sure this is the hydraulic circuit that power the engine cooling fans, but I don't know really, it fits my application, so it's happening.


Here is the mock up of the resv and bracket.


I was skeptical about the taurus fan clearance so I moved it forward and 2". This is the final product. I'm sure it'll make bleeding the air out difficult, but who cares, I think it's sick.

Painted the cap chrome, and was going to paint the rest and leave a little strip to gauge the level but in reality, no one will see it. I'm pretty sure that brown gunk is acid and has etched into the cap and resv, degreasing and scrubbing didn't even work.


After the enitial mock up the Tial and T3 came in contact so I had to extend the WG a bit, It sure isn't perfect, but it work, it clears everything however the merge is pretty close to the MAF and will need to be wrapped. I don't think there's any leaks, but I needed to let it cool, and I had just about had enough energy to take this picture and call it a day.


Had to weld the stud in because there wasn't enough room to slid a nut in, so I had to grind down a bolt and welded it in.


Next. I need to make a down pipe with the WG entrance. Order braided line, -3AN fittings, make a support bracket for the turbo. It's getting closer. Later guys, hope I'm not boring y'all....

Last edited by 3UZFTE; 09-17-10 at 06:27 PM.
Old 09-20-10, 06:16 PM
  #230  
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Update.
I finished up the merge. That's a lot of filler rod.


My favorite part.


Tested for leaks with water.


Wrapped the headers with wrap, I didn't have enough to wrap the entire header, so I did what I could.


Power steering mocking up, and IAC is plumbed.


Didn't like this mock up for the fact that it would be too close to my downpipe/wastegate.


Ended up with this, and I will use brass line to run underneath the turbo and a 90* bend to feed the pump.


The underneath plumbing...


Had to modify the power steering feed a bit.



Finished the merge.


Still need oil feed and return lines, make a turbo support bracket, and modify the existing power steering line, or have a new one made, I also need some more header wrap and I think I'll order a turbo heat blanket.

As far as electronics go, I am going to run stock setup for a while until I can source a complete Megasquirt setup for under $500, including ECU, coils, wires, etc. I would very much like to change the timing curves, run more boost, and get rid of all the unneeded junk like the dual dizzys, cam position sensors, etc.
Old 09-21-10, 01:03 AM
  #231  
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looks good but something to consider:

wrap something made of mild steel with exhaust wrap and expect it to rust through in no time. if heats a real concern then get it coated.
Old 09-21-10, 07:33 AM
  #232  
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
looks good but something to consider:

wrap something made of mild steel with exhaust wrap and expect it to rust through in no time. if heats a real concern then get it coated.
I was a bit concerned with that as well. You may have just talked me into getting it ceramic coated.... I have not only heard horror stories with wrap, but even the cheap paint sucks, last time I check, there was a guy that does an entire load for $100 or something.
Old 09-21-10, 08:33 AM
  #233  
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Progress goes fast, you update alsmost every day
Old 09-21-10, 11:09 AM
  #234  
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Subscribed. Sweet progress! Btw, can you do us new commers a favor and go back to your first post and change the title to your thread to something along the lines of turbo LS or something? Thx.
Old 09-21-10, 03:13 PM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by Asia-H.T.
Progress goes fast, you update alsmost every day
Patients was never my strong suit, besides there's probably a month left of good weather, I need every minute.
Originally Posted by CACressida
Subscribed. Sweet progress! Btw, can you do us new commers a favor and go back to your first post and change the title to your thread to something along the lines of turbo LS or something? Thx.
That's not a bad idea, I guess my thought process is that if you don't spend a little more time searching and thinking outside the box, you miss out on something great.

Thanks to PD, I called around and found a single place that's about 30 minutes north of the Twin Cities that does ceramic coating for around $200, depending on the size. I figured since it was probably in my best intrest I would invest. I decided to make sure my headers weren't going to leak, especially after I spent money to have them coated. I spent a few hours testing with water and air pressure. Here is everything on the way to being ceramic coated.


The only down side is a 1 week turn around, so I better have the oil lines and power steering pressure line ready to go when their back as well as a battery relocation kit.
Old 09-22-10, 08:14 AM
  #236  
3UZFTE
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Wideband:
AEM Uego vs Innovate LC-1.... Opinions are welcome.
Old 09-22-10, 11:43 AM
  #237  
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+1 for the LC-1.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ebandShootout/
^written by Mike Kojima of many import mag fame and motoiq.com
Old 09-22-10, 09:46 PM
  #238  
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Default Support the turbo

Have you thought about running two gaskets and leaving the fixture plate in place to help support the weight of the turbo. The only drawback I can think of is that since the fixture plate bolts to the PS pump there will be some heat soak. Because your crossover pipe is not rigid The bulk of the load of your turbo is carried by the passenger's side exhaust manifold. Depending on how you build the down pipe it can also be used to support some of the turbo load, I just think the stainless fixture would be good extra insurance.
Old 09-23-10, 09:06 AM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
+1 for the LC-1.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ebandShootout/
^written by Mike Kojima of many import mag fame and motoiq.com
Thanks for the link, the one thing I hate about FM is that you have to have a paid subscription to read just about any article they have. I was really torn between the AEM and Innovate units. I ended up going with the AEM for the fact that I got the entire setup for $140 shipped. I could have purchased an Innovate LC-1 for $125, but it wasn't complete and needed a gauge. Both units were basically the same to me, but for different reasons. Since both could be hooked up to a PC, I just choose the easy decision, one that had everything included and cheaper. It was a good read though, I like the 8 O2 sensors within about 6" of each other.
Originally Posted by e57820
Have you thought about running two gaskets and leaving the fixture plate in place to help support the weight of the turbo. The only drawback I can think of is that since the fixture plate bolts to the PS pump there will be some heat soak. Because your crossover pipe is not rigid The bulk of the load of your turbo is carried by the passenger's side exhaust manifold. Depending on how you build the down pipe it can also be used to support some of the turbo load, I just think the stainless fixture would be good extra insurance.
I have thought about that, however technically it's not mine. I was planning on sending it back to you upon completion of my project. I don't think it would be that difficult to make an easy support for the turbo. The only down side I see is that I would have to modify the power steering feed, again. I suppose if I had to I would just sink the nipple down into the support bracket, but then I would need to cut out the T3 pattern, and stainless is a biotch. I just think it would be just as easy just use 1-2" wide 1/4" stainless and weld an L bracket that would be used like a washer, on the side of the turbo, and have it drop down and stand on the inside of the engine bay/frame rail...? I can always weld a stud there so it can be bolted in place, in fact there might be one left over from the ABS module...

Off to pick up my mad scientist creations from the powder coating place. Pics to come.
Old 09-23-10, 12:02 PM
  #240  
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Pure sex and worth every Andrew Jackson.


Ordered 1/8 NPT to -3AN, premade braided oil line with -3AN fittings on both sides and an AEM Uego for $140. I am also probably picking up a boost gauge tonight for $25. I haven't decided where to locate both gauges, but I don't want to be the douchebag that has a sleeper but gives it away by having a gauge pod or two gauges mounted on the dash of a Lexus. Decisions..

Also, I am contemplating the idea of making a homemade power steering line using an AN fitting on the rack side and a banjo bolt style fitting on the pump side. Line will hold up to 300psi, pump shouldn't see more than that. Either that, or I take my line and have a hydraulic shop cut and splice mine. I'm leaning toward the AN line.


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