Hello LS forum, 92' LS4 on craiglist and I bought it.
#241
BahHumBug
iTrader: (10)
power steering will most likely blow out a normal push lock or -AN fitting. you can however have any hydraulic hose shop fab you up a new line for ~$80-100 though.
http://tunertools.com/articles/FordMuscle.pdf (complete link)
the AEM isn't a bad choice, it came in 2nd to the innovate
http://tunertools.com/articles/FordMuscle.pdf (complete link)
the AEM isn't a bad choice, it came in 2nd to the innovate
#242
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: AZ
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Thanks for the link, the one thing I hate about FM is that you have to have a paid subscription to read just about any article they have. I was really torn between the AEM and Innovate units. I ended up going with the AEM for the fact that I got the entire setup for $140 shipped. I could have purchased an Innovate LC-1 for $125, but it wasn't complete and needed a gauge. Both units were basically the same to me, but for different reasons. Since both could be hooked up to a PC, I just choose the easy decision, one that had everything included and cheaper. It was a good read though, I like the 8 O2 sensors within about 6" of each other.
I have thought about that, however technically it's not mine. I was planning on sending it back to you upon completion of my project. I don't think it would be that difficult to make an easy support for the turbo. The only down side I see is that I would have to modify the power steering feed, again. I suppose if I had to I would just sink the nipple down into the support bracket, but then I would need to cut out the T3 pattern, and stainless is a biotch. I just think it would be just as easy just use 1-2" wide 1/4" stainless and weld an L bracket that would be used like a washer, on the side of the turbo, and have it drop down and stand on the inside of the engine bay/frame rail...? I can always weld a stud there so it can be bolted in place, in fact there might be one left over from the ABS module...
Off to pick up my mad scientist creations from the powder coating place. Pics to come.
I have thought about that, however technically it's not mine. I was planning on sending it back to you upon completion of my project. I don't think it would be that difficult to make an easy support for the turbo. The only down side I see is that I would have to modify the power steering feed, again. I suppose if I had to I would just sink the nipple down into the support bracket, but then I would need to cut out the T3 pattern, and stainless is a biotch. I just think it would be just as easy just use 1-2" wide 1/4" stainless and weld an L bracket that would be used like a washer, on the side of the turbo, and have it drop down and stand on the inside of the engine bay/frame rail...? I can always weld a stud there so it can be bolted in place, in fact there might be one left over from the ABS module...
Off to pick up my mad scientist creations from the powder coating place. Pics to come.
BTW, those pipes look really cool in black!
#243
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: AZ
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What is wrong with the PS line that is on the car? puredrifter is right, the AN stuff won't hold. Just make sure the PS system is solid or you have a recipe for a car fire. Especially considering the proximity to the hot turbo. I used AN on the low pressure return and on the pump feed, but the pressure line to the rack has to be the good stuff.
#244
Instructor
Thread Starter
power steering will most likely blow out a normal push lock or -AN fitting. you can however have any hydraulic hose shop fab you up a new line for ~$80-100 though.
http://tunertools.com/articles/FordMuscle.pdf (complete link)
the AEM isn't a bad choice, it came in 2nd to the innovate
http://tunertools.com/articles/FordMuscle.pdf (complete link)
the AEM isn't a bad choice, it came in 2nd to the innovate
If I am understanding you correctly then I think you will need to choose a different place to mount a support. Remember that the engine is on rubber mounts, it moves. Linking the turbo to the frame will cause even more stress in the manifolds as the engine torques around on its mounts. You could however tie the support back into the engine block, maybe behind the alternator.
BTW, those pipes look really cool in black!
BTW, those pipes look really cool in black!
What is wrong with the PS line that is on the car? puredrifter is right, the AN stuff won't hold. Just make sure the PS system is solid or you have a recipe for a car fire. Especially considering the proximity to the hot turbo. I used AN on the low pressure return and on the pump feed, but the pressure line to the rack has to be the good stuff.
Last edited by 3UZFTE; 09-23-10 at 08:17 PM.
#245
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update.
Went to Pirtek today, ended up dropping $80 and had the existing line modified. It's exactly what I wanted, but about 2" too long. I decided to improvise and ran the hose in a totally different direction. Again, it's too long, but it should be find for now. He actually went through the process of making the line with me so I could actually shorten it, but I think it'll be fine unless it's too close to the downpipe/turbo.
Welded a bracket to support the line up over the driver's hot pipe.
I wasn't at all happy with having a rubber line so close to the turbo, downpipe and wastegate. So my friend and I came up with this simple solution.
Minus the clamps, this is how it'll look when I'm done.
It's close, but everything clears, the line to pulley and the line to frame. The driver's hot line crosses under the steel line and has about 1" clearance between the two. Since I have the extra header wrap, I'm going to wrap the electrical wiring and the power steering line and likely oil drain line. I am pretty sure the oil drain line will need to come out at an angle instead of straight up and down. Problem: Oil drain line would gave to come with an inch or so of both of the hot pipes. Solution: bring oil Pan drain adapter out at an angle, create a copper line that runs by the pipes and still creates a downhill slope of around 45*, I know that oil drain lines need to be steep.
Pretty much the money shot, space is a premium.
Here's my idea of a less bulky turbo support, and weld a peg on the back so the pump stops the support from falling.
My ideal location for the boost gauge. I would obviously enclose it in something but I don't see why not.
Only had the boost gauge, but this is where the A/F gauge is going. Again, will use something to make a nice housing.
This is likely where I'll put oil pressure and either oil or water temp, tranny temp gauge would be nice too.
My oil line came in today, all I need now is the -3AN to 1/8NPT which hopefully will come tomorrow. With the power steering plumbed, oil almost plumbed, I need to wrap everything up and tie/clamp it, order the last to silicone reducers, make the downpipe and relocate the battery to the trunk and gaskets. Hopefully within a week or two I should be twisting this beast over.
Went to Pirtek today, ended up dropping $80 and had the existing line modified. It's exactly what I wanted, but about 2" too long. I decided to improvise and ran the hose in a totally different direction. Again, it's too long, but it should be find for now. He actually went through the process of making the line with me so I could actually shorten it, but I think it'll be fine unless it's too close to the downpipe/turbo.
Welded a bracket to support the line up over the driver's hot pipe.
I wasn't at all happy with having a rubber line so close to the turbo, downpipe and wastegate. So my friend and I came up with this simple solution.
Minus the clamps, this is how it'll look when I'm done.
It's close, but everything clears, the line to pulley and the line to frame. The driver's hot line crosses under the steel line and has about 1" clearance between the two. Since I have the extra header wrap, I'm going to wrap the electrical wiring and the power steering line and likely oil drain line. I am pretty sure the oil drain line will need to come out at an angle instead of straight up and down. Problem: Oil drain line would gave to come with an inch or so of both of the hot pipes. Solution: bring oil Pan drain adapter out at an angle, create a copper line that runs by the pipes and still creates a downhill slope of around 45*, I know that oil drain lines need to be steep.
Pretty much the money shot, space is a premium.
Here's my idea of a less bulky turbo support, and weld a peg on the back so the pump stops the support from falling.
My ideal location for the boost gauge. I would obviously enclose it in something but I don't see why not.
Only had the boost gauge, but this is where the A/F gauge is going. Again, will use something to make a nice housing.
This is likely where I'll put oil pressure and either oil or water temp, tranny temp gauge would be nice too.
My oil line came in today, all I need now is the -3AN to 1/8NPT which hopefully will come tomorrow. With the power steering plumbed, oil almost plumbed, I need to wrap everything up and tie/clamp it, order the last to silicone reducers, make the downpipe and relocate the battery to the trunk and gaskets. Hopefully within a week or two I should be twisting this beast over.
#246
Instructor
Thread Starter
After thinking about how close I actually starting this car, I can't help but set my first actual goal other than getting it running. I am not very concerned with the power levels as that will come with time. My first goal is to convert to a standalone ECU, with the option of running E85. I will be purchasing a Megasquirt DIY setup before too long. Along with the ECU I will be purchasing much larger injectors so I can operate on E85. For the stated power that I will be hovering around, I will roughly need 42# injectors. I am quite sure the Walbro 255 will support the 40% more fuel as well as the factory lines should also be able to maintain as well. This is nothing new, and this idea has been around for a while, mainly for boosted rides.
I need a Megasquirt 2 or 3 ECU which I planned on anyways, (8) 42# injectors, and I'd need to replace the OE rubber lines with teflon lined fuel hose. I haven't totally figured out if the Ford edis module is strong enough for the E85 spark (I don't see why not, they currently run flex fuel vehicles) but I am still debating on my ignition setup. And the last thing is that I am going to run a flex fuel sensor so that my Megasquirt ECU will pretty much compensate for whatever mixture I happen to be running at any given point. The reason being that some states don't run E85, where as Minnesota does, and I don't want to have to deal with swapping MAP sensors in order to keep the proper tune.
The reason why I want to make the switch is because Ethanol allows for more timing with less possibility of detonation, which essentially means more power. Now, since it isn't my daily driver, I'm not afraid to put E85 in this because it won't see any winter street time. However, if for some reason I happen to run premium or E100, I don't want to have to reprogram the ECU or switch MAP sensors according the fuel ratio, instead the sensor does it for you and then adjust fuel and timing accordingly.
Any thoughts?
I need a Megasquirt 2 or 3 ECU which I planned on anyways, (8) 42# injectors, and I'd need to replace the OE rubber lines with teflon lined fuel hose. I haven't totally figured out if the Ford edis module is strong enough for the E85 spark (I don't see why not, they currently run flex fuel vehicles) but I am still debating on my ignition setup. And the last thing is that I am going to run a flex fuel sensor so that my Megasquirt ECU will pretty much compensate for whatever mixture I happen to be running at any given point. The reason being that some states don't run E85, where as Minnesota does, and I don't want to have to deal with swapping MAP sensors in order to keep the proper tune.
The reason why I want to make the switch is because Ethanol allows for more timing with less possibility of detonation, which essentially means more power. Now, since it isn't my daily driver, I'm not afraid to put E85 in this because it won't see any winter street time. However, if for some reason I happen to run premium or E100, I don't want to have to reprogram the ECU or switch MAP sensors according the fuel ratio, instead the sensor does it for you and then adjust fuel and timing accordingly.
Any thoughts?
#247
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update.
Got my wideband in today, it looks almost brand new.
Got an idea and made a template out of cardboard, then transferred it over to sheetmetal. It's basically a rounded rectangle with a 2" hole in the center to snuggly hold the gauge in place.
I decided to gut the center vents to allow some cover for the gauges, instead of leaving them exposed.
Not totally finished, but pretty sure this is what the final result will end up looking like. I truthfully won't know until the I am driving the vehicle around and either get used to it or not. I am not crazy about having to look through the bars to read the gauges, but I think I have enough visibility.
I was going to do something out of PVC, something like a tweeter looking gauge thing, but I figured the gauge idea was a little cooler.
Got my wideband in today, it looks almost brand new.
Got an idea and made a template out of cardboard, then transferred it over to sheetmetal. It's basically a rounded rectangle with a 2" hole in the center to snuggly hold the gauge in place.
I decided to gut the center vents to allow some cover for the gauges, instead of leaving them exposed.
Not totally finished, but pretty sure this is what the final result will end up looking like. I truthfully won't know until the I am driving the vehicle around and either get used to it or not. I am not crazy about having to look through the bars to read the gauges, but I think I have enough visibility.
I was going to do something out of PVC, something like a tweeter looking gauge thing, but I figured the gauge idea was a little cooler.
#248
Lexus Champion
I like the PVC boost gauge surround. I slipped an old intercooler hose over my $5 eBay boost gauge and then wrapped it with leather from a seat I threw away, and wedged it between the pillar and the dashboard. It's ghetto fabulous!
#249
Instructor
Thread Starter
#250
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update.
I was a little worried about my oil return setup having my hotside run right through the original space for the return. I ended up making a trip to Home Depot and spending a total of like $5 on 1/2" plumbing piping and like $3 on 1/2" brass barbed hose fittings with the final result of this, which should provide enough angle to allow easy flow back to the pan.
Underneath view, everything has clearance, as well as a steep enough angle to allow oil to flow well.
Should have enough angle for proper drainage.
Another angle with the power steering feed in place.
Overhead view of it all...
AN fittings showed up, so I finished the turbo oil feed.
With the driver's mani removed, but space isn't really an issue.
Motivation:
I know Ethanol will ultimately cost more to run, but the benefits far outweigh the cost difference.
I was a little worried about my oil return setup having my hotside run right through the original space for the return. I ended up making a trip to Home Depot and spending a total of like $5 on 1/2" plumbing piping and like $3 on 1/2" brass barbed hose fittings with the final result of this, which should provide enough angle to allow easy flow back to the pan.
Underneath view, everything has clearance, as well as a steep enough angle to allow oil to flow well.
Should have enough angle for proper drainage.
Another angle with the power steering feed in place.
Overhead view of it all...
AN fittings showed up, so I finished the turbo oil feed.
With the driver's mani removed, but space isn't really an issue.
Motivation:
I know Ethanol will ultimately cost more to run, but the benefits far outweigh the cost difference.
#251
Instructor
Thread Starter
Oh yeah, I had to make my own turbo oil drain because the space that I had was very minimal, and I needed every inch possible. It is nothing special, but works because it comes out at a 45* angle right away as opposed to dropping down some and then going to 45*.
#252
Lexus Test Driver
Bumped into this thread last night and just skimmed 17 pgs. If it weren't for the fact that I have to go to physics lab, I would be reading this more carefully. I give huge props to you for tackling such an elaborate project! It seems like you have gained a ton from this project. Turning a NA car to FI is one helluva task! Look forward to more updates.
#253
Instructor
Thread Starter
Bumped into this thread last night and just skimmed 17 pgs. If it weren't for the fact that I have to go to physics lab, I would be reading this more carefully. I give huge props to you for tackling such an elaborate project! It seems like you have gained a ton from this project. Turning a NA car to FI is one helluva task! Look forward to more updates.
Update.
Waiting for parts so I figured I would splash a little soap and water on the LS and take about 6 months of dirt off.
Started to mock-up my 3" downpipe.
And the wastegate, not the prettiest thing in the world, but it should work fine.
As usual, I am waiting for parts.
#255
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update.
Sorry for the delay, I have been waiting for a few parts to arrive via USPS. Got my 2.5" v-band clamp in the mail this morning. I spent most of the day chasing an electrical problem on my brother's Ferrari. I do manage to do a bit of fitting and managed to plumb and weld my downpipe and wastegate.
Downpipe to pulley clearance is a bit tight, I'm either going to flatten the downpipe or underdeive the powersteering pump, but I don't really like the idea of changing the pulley as opposed to a couple whacks of the hammer.
An overall shot of the goodness. Notice the length of the drive belt now is a lot shorter. Clearances are a bit tight but I didn't think it was going to be this easy...
Also got my 3" to 3.5" reducing 90* and a 2.5" to 3" reducer in the mail at the end of the day, after I put everything away so I figured I'd just snap a pic.
As always, comments, questions and concerns can all be aired out for all to discuss. Obviously more to come.
Sorry for the delay, I have been waiting for a few parts to arrive via USPS. Got my 2.5" v-band clamp in the mail this morning. I spent most of the day chasing an electrical problem on my brother's Ferrari. I do manage to do a bit of fitting and managed to plumb and weld my downpipe and wastegate.
Downpipe to pulley clearance is a bit tight, I'm either going to flatten the downpipe or underdeive the powersteering pump, but I don't really like the idea of changing the pulley as opposed to a couple whacks of the hammer.
An overall shot of the goodness. Notice the length of the drive belt now is a lot shorter. Clearances are a bit tight but I didn't think it was going to be this easy...
Also got my 3" to 3.5" reducing 90* and a 2.5" to 3" reducer in the mail at the end of the day, after I put everything away so I figured I'd just snap a pic.
As always, comments, questions and concerns can all be aired out for all to discuss. Obviously more to come.
Last edited by 3UZFTE; 10-05-10 at 08:03 AM.