PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

power steering will most likely blow out a normal push lock or -AN fitting. you can however have any hydraulic hose shop fab you up a new line for ~$80-100 though.

http://tunertools.com/articles/FordMuscle.pdf (complete link)
the AEM isn't a bad choice, it came in 2nd to the innovate

e57820

If I am understanding you correctly then I think you will need to choose a different place to mount a support. Remember that the engine is on rubber mounts, it moves. Linking the turbo to the frame will cause even more stress in the manifolds as the engine torques around on its mounts. You could however tie the support back into the engine block, maybe behind the alternator.

BTW, those pipes look really cool in black!

e57820

What is wrong with the PS line that is on the car? puredrifter is right, the AN stuff won't hold. Just make sure the PS system is solid or you have a recipe for a car fire. Especially considering the proximity to the hot turbo. I used AN on the low pressure return and on the pump feed, but the pressure line to the rack has to be the good stuff.

3UZFTE

Hey, thanks PD for the whole article. It was a pretty good read, and now I know a little more of what the downfalls are from someone who knows what their talking about. As far as the power steering line, Earls makes a kit that could easily be adapted by using a 1/2 NPT female to -6AN male adapter, then use Earl's power steering line to a 14mm -6AN banjo bolt. I am quite sure that the line will hold, I just think it might be easier for me to have the high pressure line modified like you said. We had custom lines built for our 64' Falcon for $85 by a company called Piretek, I'm going to give them a call and see what they say.

Once you put it like that, it makes sense. Since the engine tends to shift from side to side, instead of back and forth, I think I could either come up with a hinge in the support to allow it move side to side. Use a nut/bolt to allow some movement but yet be rigid enough to hold the turbo in a time of need. Maybe that won't work, just a thought. I could also just copy your support bracket and just use the front bolt of the PS pump to one of the footprint bolts. Unfortunately, it rained all friggin day so I didn't have a chance to do a thing except remove the high pressure line to weigh my options. I will have to look for another spot tomorrow. Thanks, I was super happy with the outcome of them.

The reason why my high pressure line won't work in stock fashion is that my hotside piping feeds up the back side of the alternator/PS pump and I can't afford to have it swoop back any more. I need to have the line drop straight down from the pump to the frame rail, then down to the pan. The current setup IIRC swoops forward a few inches, swoops back, then drops back behind the alternator, then wraps around the front of the oil pan. It's basically altering it to make a more direct route to the oil pan. I stumbled across Earl's power steering line and fittings. I am pretty sure I could make a safe high pressure line alternative, unfortunately it wouldn't be cost effective as I'm looking at about $80 in fittings, line, etc. Earl's says it holds up to 2,000+psi, and I wouldn't see why the fitting would fail provided that I used hydraulic fittings that had metal sleeves. Since I have the line off the car, I am going check with Piretek, tomorrow and see what they can do for me.

3UZFTE

Update.
Went to Pirtek today, ended up dropping $80 and had the existing line modified. It's exactly what I wanted, but about 2" too long. I decided to improvise and ran the hose in a totally different direction. Again, it's too long, but it should be find for now. He actually went through the process of making the line with me so I could actually shorten it, but I think it'll be fine unless it's too close to the downpipe/turbo.


Welded a bracket to support the line up over the driver's hot pipe.


I wasn't at all happy with having a rubber line so close to the turbo, downpipe and wastegate. So my friend and I came up with this simple solution.


Minus the clamps, this is how it'll look when I'm done.


It's close, but everything clears, the line to pulley and the line to frame. The driver's hot line crosses under the steel line and has about 1" clearance between the two. Since I have the extra header wrap, I'm going to wrap the electrical wiring and the power steering line and likely oil drain line. I am pretty sure the oil drain line will need to come out at an angle instead of straight up and down. Problem: Oil drain line would gave to come with an inch or so of both of the hot pipes. Solution: bring oil Pan drain adapter out at an angle, create a copper line that runs by the pipes and still creates a downhill slope of around 45*, I know that oil drain lines need to be steep.


Pretty much the money shot, space is a premium.


Here's my idea of a less bulky turbo support, and weld a peg on the back so the pump stops the support from falling.


My ideal location for the boost gauge. I would obviously enclose it in something but I don't see why not.


Only had the boost gauge, but this is where the A/F gauge is going. Again, will use something to make a nice housing.


This is likely where I'll put oil pressure and either oil or water temp, tranny temp gauge would be nice too.


My oil line came in today, all I need now is the -3AN to 1/8NPT which hopefully will come tomorrow. With the power steering plumbed, oil almost plumbed, I need to wrap everything up and tie/clamp it, order the last to silicone reducers, make the downpipe and relocate the battery to the trunk and gaskets. Hopefully within a week or two I should be twisting this beast over.

3UZFTE

After thinking about how close I actually starting this car, I can't help but set my first actual goal other than getting it running. I am not very concerned with the power levels as that will come with time. My first goal is to convert to a standalone ECU, with the option of running E85. I will be purchasing a Megasquirt DIY setup before too long. Along with the ECU I will be purchasing much larger injectors so I can operate on E85. For the stated power that I will be hovering around, I will roughly need 42# injectors. I am quite sure the Walbro 255 will support the 40% more fuel as well as the factory lines should also be able to maintain as well. This is nothing new, and this idea has been around for a while, mainly for boosted rides.

I need a Megasquirt 2 or 3 ECU which I planned on anyways, (8) 42# injectors, and I'd need to replace the OE rubber lines with teflon lined fuel hose. I haven't totally figured out if the Ford edis module is strong enough for the E85 spark (I don't see why not, they currently run flex fuel vehicles) but I am still debating on my ignition setup. And the last thing is that I am going to run a flex fuel sensor so that my Megasquirt ECU will pretty much compensate for whatever mixture I happen to be running at any given point. The reason being that some states don't run E85, where as Minnesota does, and I don't want to have to deal with swapping MAP sensors in order to keep the proper tune.

The reason why I want to make the switch is because Ethanol allows for more timing with less possibility of detonation, which essentially means more power. Now, since it isn't my daily driver, I'm not afraid to put E85 in this because it won't see any winter street time. However, if for some reason I happen to run premium or E100, I don't want to have to reprogram the ECU or switch MAP sensors according the fuel ratio, instead the sensor does it for you and then adjust fuel and timing accordingly.

Any thoughts?

3UZFTE

Update.
Got my wideband in today, it looks almost brand new.


Got an idea and made a template out of cardboard, then transferred it over to sheetmetal. It's basically a rounded rectangle with a 2" hole in the center to snuggly hold the gauge in place.


I decided to gut the center vents to allow some cover for the gauges, instead of leaving them exposed.


Not totally finished, but pretty sure this is what the final result will end up looking like. I truthfully won't know until the I am driving the vehicle around and either get used to it or not. I am not crazy about having to look through the bars to read the gauges, but I think I have enough visibility.


I was going to do something out of PVC, something like a tweeter looking gauge thing, but I figured the gauge idea was a little cooler.

sdls

I like the PVC boost gauge surround. I slipped an old intercooler hose over my $5 eBay boost gauge and then wrapped it with leather from a seat I threw away, and wedged it between the pillar and the dashboard. It's ghetto fabulous!

3UZFTE

I like the idea, I pretty much did the same thing, minus the leather wrap to test the wideband in my GS430. It might not make it into an Super Street anytime soon, but this being a budget sleeper, I can't justify going out of my way to make a gauge pod or buy some trick setup, el-cheapo setup is fine with me.

3UZFTE

Update.
I was a little worried about my oil return setup having my hotside run right through the original space for the return. I ended up making a trip to Home Depot and spending a total of like $5 on 1/2" plumbing piping and like $3 on 1/2" brass barbed hose fittings with the final result of this, which should provide enough angle to allow easy flow back to the pan.


Underneath view, everything has clearance, as well as a steep enough angle to allow oil to flow well.


Should have enough angle for proper drainage.


Another angle with the power steering feed in place.




Overhead view of it all...


AN fittings showed up, so I finished the turbo oil feed.


With the driver's mani removed, but space isn't really an issue.


Motivation:



I know Ethanol will ultimately cost more to run, but the benefits far outweigh the cost difference.

3UZFTE

Oh yeah, I had to make my own turbo oil drain because the space that I had was very minimal, and I needed every inch possible. It is nothing special, but works because it comes out at a 45* angle right away as opposed to dropping down some and then going to 45*.

CarGuy89

Bumped into this thread last night and just skimmed 17 pgs. If it weren't for the fact that I have to go to physics lab, I would be reading this more carefully. I give huge props to you for tackling such an elaborate project! It seems like you have gained a ton from this project. Turning a NA car to FI is one helluva task! Look forward to more updates.

3UZFTE

Hey, thanks for taking the time and checking out my build. I certainly have taught myself quite a bit. I sure do understand as I spent most of college cruising forums and getting the idea. It all started because I couldn't afford a MKIV Supra. When I first started, my budget was like $1,700, I couldn't even tell you where I am at now, boost ain't cheap.

Update.
Waiting for parts so I figured I would splash a little soap and water on the LS and take about 6 months of dirt off.


Started to mock-up my 3" downpipe.


And the wastegate, not the prettiest thing in the world, but it should work fine.


As usual, I am waiting for parts.

3UZFTE

Update.
Welded in the O2 bung that I robbed from the turbo kit I bought.


Close up, ready for some turbocharged action.

3UZFTE

Update.
Sorry for the delay, I have been waiting for a few parts to arrive via USPS. Got my 2.5" v-band clamp in the mail this morning. I spent most of the day chasing an electrical problem on my brother's Ferrari. I do manage to do a bit of fitting and managed to plumb and weld my downpipe and wastegate.


Downpipe to pulley clearance is a bit tight, I'm either going to flatten the downpipe or underdeive the powersteering pump, but I don't really like the idea of changing the pulley as opposed to a couple whacks of the hammer.


An overall shot of the goodness. Notice the length of the drive belt now is a lot shorter. Clearances are a bit tight but I didn't think it was going to be this easy...


Also got my 3" to 3.5" reducing 90* and a 2.5" to 3" reducer in the mail at the end of the day, after I put everything away so I figured I'd just snap a pic.




As always, comments, questions and concerns can all be aired out for all to discuss. Obviously more to come.