PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

congrats on the startup!

Garage7RP

iTrader: (1)

Good start-up! I am afraid that oil drain line might not work because of the 2 exhaust pipes.

Marklouis

Awesome sound! congrats, your almost at the starting line!

mamooshac

if u find another one with this price but diferrent problem then u r good to go

3UZFTE

Thank you.

Thanks, as far as of now, which isn't far at all, the drain seems to be fine. I haven't really gotten out on the road much but the rubber line that is wrapped in header wrap only goes about 12", than terminates into steel plumbers tubing to ensure the oil return has a safe passage back to the pan. I was skeptical of the oil line running under the turbo like that, but it seems that others have done this with success, so it's a waiting game I guess, which is why I decided to wrap it in header wrap to reduce the chances of burning through.

Thanks, it has been a long time coming, and now I'm just happy to have it moving again. It really screams up around 4k RPM, unfortunately I am waiting for good weather to test it, so I am cautious of pissing my neighbors off.

I am not totally sure what your getting at, but all that this thing will really need in the end is a some suspension/steering work, such as bushings, bearings, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar links, and an interior clean-up job with new seats, etc, and I think it's good to go.


Update.
My friend finally got his act in gear and bend me up a box from some scrap metal he had. He used galvanized, which I was going to just buff and shine, but instead painted it flat black to provide a little more stealthy look for the battery relocation. I used the 4 sheet metal screws to secure the box to the frame rail, the two pieces of hose to line the battery cables from the battery box in order to prevent a premature ground. I also made sure there was thick foam or felt underneath and around the battery in order to stop any vibrations or sliding around.


We decided to size the box for a universal size, rather than just one specific one. This was done to provide room for a future upgrade to a drycell, racing, or any other battery thats smaller than 7"Wide x 12"Long x 10"High. The battery cables were purposely left a little long to allow polarity reversal if a battery change is required. The battery ground cable is a OE cable from a 94' Honda Accord, with the extra ground being mounted to a stud on the inside.


Mounted, wired, and ready-to-go... We are still trying to figure out an idea for latching the top to the box without ruining it, i.e. screws are out, velcro, hinges, or snaps are all within the question. Yes, my trunk is my storage box.


I also order my Megasquirt 3 today. I am planning on running Ford's EDIS (electronic distributorless ignition system) for a little while, with the hopes of switching over to xUZ or LSx coil over plugs, or COPs. With the new MS3/x setup, I am about to run 8 individual coils and get rid of the once cool, but now outdated, dual distributor setup. I will likely switch over to COPs like the ones on my GS430 or the ones you can find on LSx powered trucks and cars for a decent price. The other benefit of MS3 is that I can run sequential injection instead of running the factory batch fire system, which fires 2 sets of injectors, bank 1 and 2. Whereas with sequential, I can fire 1 injector at a time, and tune on a per cylinder basis. Until then, here is my Ford EDIS setup I pulled it from a Ford Crown Victoria with a 4.6 modular 3-valve V8 for a whopping $15. The only thing I need now is either an additional 36-1 wheel to the factory 12 tooth wheel and run the OE ECU to run only the tranny. Or I turn the 12 tooth wheel into a 36-1 and build a module to control the A340e tranny with my MS3. Or I can try to reprogram the MS3 ecu code to read a 12-1 wheel... They all seem like viable options, just not sure which one is the easiest/most beneficial.


Hopefully the weather clears up so I can actually get to driving it around. Here is what it looks like now, everything is plumbed and leak free as of now.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

looks good but you really need to vent that battery box to atmosphere....

hydrogen collecting in the box and/or the trunk doesnt sound good.

e57820

PD does have a valid point, personally I have never worried about it but it is good advice. If you are really worried about venting your box then you may want to look into buying caps for the battery cells that are set up for venting so it can be done directly at the battery. Venting a box that is not sealed won't do you any good. Also hydrogen is much lighter than air so any hydrogen produced will quickly move to the top of whatever compartment it is trapped in. Meaning, that if you do seal your box and vent it then a good place to put the vent tube will be in the top of the box. If your box is not sealed then venting it is basically a placebo since hydrogen (smallest molecule) is really good at escaping containment. This is why I mentioned the caps with lines for vents. I noticed you are running an interstate battery; these caps will be available through them. It would be interesting to do the calculations to see how much chemical reaction must take place in the battery in order to cause the hydrogen volume to come into ratio with the trunk volume and reach LEL (lower explosive limit). Hydrogen LEL 4.0%+ and I am pretty sure the chemical reaction has a direct relationship to the Ah. Now I am curious, I will have to look into it, probably depends on how homogeneous the compartment mixture is.

Give the people what they want,

BURNOUT VIDEO!!!

3UZFTE

Hey thank PD and Adam for taking me to science class . I am actually not even going to run either battery, but instead I'm going to run a sealed battery. IIRC Walmart sells a NASCAR line that is sealed, like Ultima's Y/B/R tops. If I do have to run a standard battery, I will look into the venting method as there's a battery's plus a few miles away.

About the burn out, I will not disappoint, once I get it out of the driveway, the tires will hopefully come back as slicks.

Happy Halloween everybody, enjoy the weekend.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

make sure you not only get a "sealed" battery, but specifically something of gel-cell construction.

e57820

What is left to do? How are you going to anchor your battery and box? Have you got your calipers working yet? Are you done with your truck?

3UZFTE

Will do.

Adam... Today, I couldn't help but getting the bug and getting Snow White moving. It started right up (with a bit of blue smoke) and chugged a bit, then high idled, than dropped to about a 1000. I started to back it out, and that's where the videos start. I'm pretty sure I understand what your saying about having to back out of it. Haha, the truck is another project, and as far as they go, are projects ever done? I'm going to email you my newest project, I started to weld up some square tubing for some rock sliders for my Truck. Anyways, here ya go.

Update, sorry for the quality, I had to take it with my iPhone as my gf's at work.

The hockey laces are holding up the wheel liners, not the piping.


1st drive, I looked down and realized I had no gas, had to bee-line to the nearest station, and didn't wanna boost.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cgm_NNY-F0

2nd drive, w/ gas, no coolant... Forgot an upper radiator hose... What I thought was fuel cut, was probably the lack of timing, but who knows, but next spring it will be MS'd..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNBW5ez1Y6I

Marklouis

still, it sounds awesome! just a few more tweaks...your so close my man, so close. i may have missed it in your posts but did you bypass your MAF and are you using stock injectors?

3UZFTE

Thanks man, I can almost see the finish line, however I think most of the tuning and performance and number chasing will have to come next spring. About the Mass air sensor or Air flow meter, same thing, I didn't bypass it, it's reading off the factory karmon vortex unit, and yes I am using the stock injectors, which is you rate them in pounds per hour, they are 25#. The next stage, I am going with 36# pound injectors and E85 while being powered by a Megasquirt 3.

e57820

I am by no means a "tuner", but some questions I have are: What is your AFR doing right before you start to miss? Do you hear any pinging? If you are careful on the pedal can you get it to accelerate under lower boost without missing? If you could take the valve out of the BOV and the valve out of the waste gate you could bypass the turbo system and have no boost. This would at least give you a point to start at when troubleshooting your problem. Nothing says that the boost is the cause of your miss (although it most likely is) it still could be something else. If you removed the boost and the problem goes away then you could at least say that the problem is caused by boost. Once you know that, it is all about AFRs and timing. If your wideband is data logging it would be interesting to see what is going on with the AFR with respect to RPM and boost pressure.

My best guess is that without the rising rate FPR you are running too lean under boost and developing a lean miss. The computer may be pulling enough timing that you can't hear any pinging over the exhaust. All the volume in the world from your pump won't do any good when the rail pressure is regulated too low. Like I said, not a "tuner" just a guess.

middlifer2

Can't beat that for a project car!