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Im still getting 10 mpg!! What else can i do?

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Old 04-04-09, 08:57 PM
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KingNasGS4
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Default Im still getting 10 mpg!! What else can i do?

Ive done just about everything on this forum guys
ive gotten a tune up,
ive cleaned my throttle body,
ive used an entire qt of lucas in my fuel, also have been using gumout once or twice
ive even changed my Coolant temperature sensor ( BTW it DID give the car an extra kick)

Ive been easy on the pedal... and NO change in MPG with one half tank im getting about 100 miles.
from half to full uses about 11 gallons

that averages less than 10MPG
AGAIN, Ive done everything I know how,

I drive in Brooklyn NY with my city driving, but i go to work which is about 15 miles on the highway daily and i would say i do another 5-7 miles in the city
so i would say i do about 20-25 miles perday average

imagine if i was doing strictly city driving?!?! i would problably get 5mpg or something
how could i get 10mpg when i do 15 miles on the highway daily?

gas prices are starting to go up again and i cant afford to have such low economy and live a normal lifestyle especially since im getting laid off at months end...

im starting to get down on my car
SOMEONE HELP ME!
Old 04-04-09, 09:06 PM
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Anthony
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I was getting 13mpg in my 1GS when I had it straight city..
and that was a I6..
So I guess that is about right, Never get close to numbers listed for the car..
Old 04-04-09, 11:53 PM
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Bali26
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You are getting pre-warm up fuel consumption. I suspect you haven't changed your thermostat.
Old 04-05-09, 09:23 AM
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Kansas
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I'd recommend taking your car to a shop that has the appropriate diagnostic equipment to tell you what is going on. Also, keep specific track of your gas mileage over three or four tank fulls down to the actual tenth of a gallon. It sounds like you are guessing what your gas mileage is.
Old 04-05-09, 10:47 AM
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KingNasGS4
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i changed my thermostat 3 weeks ago. BUT while we are talking about pre-warm up,
after I changed my coolant temp sensor, the car idles a lot higher from a cold start. when in neutral or park even after the engine is hot. it idles like the car is still cold.

BUT if i turn off the car and turn it back on, the idle goes to normal level and idles like the car is warm.
it seems like the sensor gives the initial cold start reading ALL the time. im starting to wonder if its because I used a sensor from autozone? but i may have to buy one from lexus and see the difference

anyways ive also actually done the fill up, drive 60 miles, refill, then average out miles done vs. gallons added, and that was also about 9.7 mpg last time ive done it.
ive done that routine about 3 times and close to 9.7 OR 9.7 was what I received.


when my mech hooked the diagnostics to the car nothing was wrong.

i have no clue as to what else I should do for this

changing the sensor would be something i would do, because of high idling.
but i dont know how much of a difference that would make because i usually shut the car off and turn back on for the correct idle.

Last edited by KingNasGS4; 04-05-09 at 10:53 AM.
Old 04-05-09, 12:34 PM
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test and prolly replace the ECT. autozone is higher than my local lex dealer, why did you buy it from them?
Old 04-05-09, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by kosi718
i changed my thermostat 3 weeks ago. BUT while we are talking
anyways ive also actually done the fill up, drive 60 miles, refill, then average out miles done vs. gallons added, and that was also about 9.7 mpg last time ive done it.
ive done that routine about 3 times and close to 9.7 OR 9.7 was what I received.

when my mech hooked the diagnostics to the car nothing was wrong.

i have no clue as to what else I should do for this

changing the sensor would be something i would do, because of high idling.
but i dont know how much of a difference that would make because i usually shut the car off and turn back on for the correct idle.
It is not possible to calculate an accurate fuel mileage by refilling the gas tank every 60 miles. Tell us your average fuel mileage over several tank fulls ... perhaps 600-800 miles.

If your mechanic can not tell you why the engine is idling fast then he must not be qualified to diagnosis the problem. Is this a Lexus trained mechanic?
Old 04-06-09, 06:21 AM
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at this pont, after throwing parts at it, you need to have it checked by a good lexus shop. the proper scan tools can find many problems that others can't. you have a problem with the a/f mixture. something is throwing it off; typicall it's teh ECT but there are other things that can cause this; maf, 02, etc. pay the 1 hour diag at the dealer and then you'll know whta you need instead of being frustrated throwing money and parts at it and still not fixing it.
Old 04-06-09, 09:03 AM
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atoyot
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im going out on a limb but perhaps check to make sure your MAF and o2 sensors are giving accurate readings. They could trigger a rich condition of they are not functioning correctly.
Old 04-07-09, 01:50 PM
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to answer all of your questions

1) I used an aftermarket sensor because in the DIY coolant temp sensor thread, the OP said he used one and it had a noticeable difference. and several other members used an aftermarket sensor and it worked out well for them. so I said hey, why not?


2) the MPG method is the one that most other members used on here other than the 60 miles part, I only used 60 miles because I felt that was a good enough distance to measure

3) yes, my mechanic is a certified lexus mechanic

when he hooked up the diagnosis to the computer he didnt notice anything wrong.
Old 04-07-09, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kosi718
to answer all of your questions

1) I used an aftermarket sensor because in the DIY coolant temp sensor thread, the OP said he used one and it had a noticeable difference. and several other members used an aftermarket sensor and it worked out well for them. so I said hey, why not?


2) the MPG method is the one that most other members used on here other than the 60 miles part, I only used 60 miles because I felt that was a good enough distance to measure

3) yes, my mechanic is a certified lexus mechanic

when he hooked up the diagnosis to the computer he didnt notice anything wrong.
My suggestion is to use oem sensors whenever there is more than an off/on function involved. If it's sending readings/voltages of any kind, use oem only! As for your mileage, I agree with Kansas and would add: use the same service station, same pump, and same fill up technique - as soon as the nozzle cuts off, stop fueling. Refuel several times only when you have 1/4 tank left, then average them out. I think you might get different results
Old 04-07-09, 06:59 PM
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trust me man, ive done it all.
but the 60 mile test is the one ive done the most

ive fueled to the click from E and got about 215 miles from f to the warning light,

ive done from half tank to full and have gotten numbers like 105 miles all the way down
to 98 miles on a half tank

from half to full gave me approx 11.xx gallons so the gauge is basically on point if the tank holds 22 gallons

so which ever way you cut it, its getting about 10 MPG or so

and yes i used the same pump at the same station for every time i did my tests.
Old 04-07-09, 08:28 PM
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Were you having the 10 MPG problem BEFORE changing the ECT, or AFTER? Also, if you are having so much problems with it, did you try an OEM ECT yet? If you change it and it works, then knock it.

Others and myself are having good luck with the Autozone sensor.
Old 04-08-09, 12:10 PM
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Check the vacuum line to your fuel pressure regulator.
Old 04-09-09, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by UofACATS
Check the vacuum line to your fuel pressure regulator.
good call!!


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