LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

About to significantly modify 1997 LS400. Thoughts/opinions? What am I missing?

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Old 05-04-09, 09:38 AM
  #31  
j three
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Thats why I said you dont have to lower as much with the 20's, because they are taller. Less lowering to acheive the same tire to fender gap. Hopefully that makes more sense.

Hey P.D. do you have any pics taken from the rear of your car to the front showing the flushness of your rims? I'm just curious because you have a 10.5 +12 rear and I have 10.5 +45 rear and in the pic above it looks like it sits just like mine does. I just want to get the full effect of the -33 difference between the two.
Old 05-04-09, 10:11 AM
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j three
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Here is what the LS will look like with the MRR's. A new member just happens to be looking at an LS with MRR's to purchase. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-included.html . Looks pretty darn good!
Old 05-04-09, 11:15 AM
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PureDrifter
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Originally Posted by j three
Thats why I said you dont have to lower as much with the 20's, because they are taller. Less lowering to acheive the same tire to fender gap. Hopefully that makes more sense.

Hey P.D. do you have any pics taken from the rear of your car to the front showing the flushness of your rims? I'm just curious because you have a 10.5 +12 rear and I have 10.5 +45 rear and in the pic above it looks like it sits just like mine does. I just want to get the full effect of the -33 difference between the two.
old pic:





that's on my old LSportline suspension, with a mildly stretched 255/35-20 tire, with ~-3degrees of camber.

don't forget to compensate for camber since you're decently higher than me.
Old 05-04-09, 11:49 AM
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j three
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Wow ok cool, that last pic says it all . As I told you before I have 275/30 tire rear, my next set will be wider since my passenger rear wheel is getting chewed up pretty good from curbs (bad parking job) pot holes and avoiding a truck that was on my side while I was turning down a street.

Making me run over the front of the crosswalk where it starts to incline putting a nice dent on the lip. Question, my wheel has a stainless lip and it looks to just go over the regular outer lip(overlay?). I haven't heard of anyone getting their wheels repaired / refinished that has stainless lips, do you think this doable?
Old 05-04-09, 12:10 PM
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just remove the lip and have them finish the aluminum underneath. otherwise you'll have to have the rim repaired and buy another a stainless insert.
Old 05-04-09, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 19psi
actually the car will be higher up on 20's than on 18's... measuere from the middle of the wheel to teh ground. the 20 will always be lifting the car up off the ground compared to an 18. that's why i refuse to roll 20's. if i want ground clearance, i drive my truck!
I think that's why Mugen mentioned it's tire dependant. For example a 275/30/20 vs. a 275/40/18 has only 0.1 inch difference in diameter - and these are the tires that'll get you closest to OEM diameter to keep the speedo as correct as possible.
Old 05-04-09, 01:33 PM
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19psi
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Originally Posted by Schnitz
I think that's why Mugen mentioned it's tire dependant. For example a 275/30/20 vs. a 275/40/18 has only 0.1 inch difference in diameter - and these are the tires that'll get you closest to OEM diameter to keep the speedo as correct as possible.
yeah that's true...for you guys running those monster meats and a less aggressive drop. if i went from my 235 35 19's toa 275 30 20, that would be 1" larger OD for the 20's which would lift me off the ground 0.5". if i can see daylight under the car, it's too high!
Old 05-04-09, 01:44 PM
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If I am correct your tire radius is 0.6" smaller than stock which makes your speedo read too fast therefore the mileage adds up faster as well.
Old 05-04-09, 09:03 PM
  #39  
Mugen_1
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I was IM'ing Pure earlier today and though I told him I had made my decision to run 18" x 8.5" MRR GT1s with +35 front and +20 rear (with adapters/rolled fenders), I've changed my mind: I'm going with 20"s.

My reasoning: as discussed previously, the 20"s will provide a more standout look, but make the car ride higher. Since I'm installing Megans, I'm expecting a 1.5" - 1.8" drop. I think running 18"s will put my car too low (sorry, 19psi if this conflicts with your view of things :P) and since the roads around here aren't that great, I'd like to sit a little higher to avoid scraping the bumpers going in and out of driveways/alleys/etc. I know that going from 16" to 20" will stiffen the ride, but I'm thinking that if I set the Megans to a higher number (like, 28-32), it will compensate for some of that ride. If not, I can live with it.

B2Autodesigns can ship the 20" GT1 for $1115, (about $300 more than the 18s) and I'm buying the tires from a local shop if the price is right. So to prevent having to get my speedo recalibrated (which nobody around here can do), what size tires will I need? For some reason 245/40 R20 stuck out. I'm not staggering and I want something with good tread life. If that means sacrificing grip so be it.
Old 05-04-09, 09:10 PM
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steveski
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Originally Posted by Mugen_1
I was IM'ing Pure earlier today and though I told him I had made my decision to run 18" x 8.5" MRR GT1s with +35 front and +20 rear (with adapters/rolled fenders), I've changed my mind: I'm going with 20"s.

My reasoning: as discussed previously, the 20"s will provide a more standout look, but make the car ride higher. Since I'm installing Megans, I'm expecting a 1.5" - 1.8" drop. I think running 18"s will put my car too low (sorry, 19psi if this conflicts with your view of things :P) and since the roads around here aren't that great, I'd like to sit a little higher to avoid scraping the bumpers going in and out of driveways/alleys/etc. I know that going from 16" to 20" will stiffen the ride, but I'm thinking that if I set the Megans to a higher number (like, 28-32), it will compensate for some of that ride. If not, I can live with it.

B2Autodesigns can ship the 20" GT1 for $1115, (about $300 more than the 18s) and I'm buying the tires from a local shop if the price is right. So to prevent having to get my speedo recalibrated (which nobody around here can do), what size tires will I need? For some reason 245/40 R20 stuck out. I'm not staggering and I want something with good tread life. If that means sacrificing grip so be it.
Either 18's or 20's I really like your wheel choice bro. I use the following link to get close to OEM tire OD for better speedo accuracy. Check it out:

http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

I have 18's on mine and that is one thing I regret not going a bit larger. If I knew of your wheel setup before I bought my Ruff Racing I would have gone with yours
Old 05-04-09, 09:30 PM
  #41  
skperformance
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Just a thought but my opinion on upgrading your 97 LS is to sell it and buy a 98-00 LS with more power and personally a much better front end with some better toys.
That way you get way more than any moding car by starting off with a better base product first to upgrade.
Old 05-04-09, 09:51 PM
  #42  
Mugen_1
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Thanks Steve

I'll be sure to post pics once I get everything done (within the next month).

If I had the intent to sell my LS, I was going to buy an Impreza WRX STi. But it's cheaper to modify the car I already have paid for then to go out and buy another car, then make car payments + cost of mods.

I'm not contesting the fact that a 98-00 would have the better looking front end and more toys, I just don't see a point in selling a car that has no issues for a car a couple years newer.

That was my main logic behind the mods.

I appreciate all the input nonetheless!
Old 05-04-09, 10:05 PM
  #43  
PureDrifter
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right size for your car is 245/35-20.
Old 05-04-09, 10:07 PM
  #44  
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nice plan mugen_1.
looking forward for the finish product.
Old 05-04-09, 10:57 PM
  #45  
Mugen_1
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
right size for your car is 245/35-20.
Sure is. I just checked it out with the link Steve provided. With that size, my speedometer would be 0.3 mph off.

Tires are cheaper than I expected too, which is an added bonus.


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