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94 LRear Strut Rod Bushing Problem

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Old 11-17-09, 02:02 PM
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tyncobb
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Default 94 LRear Strut Rod Bushing Problem

Replacing the entire strut rod today and cannot get the bolt that goes through the rubber bushing out. Have used PB Blaster, heat and I have gotten the nut off of the bolt, but cannot push the bolt through to get rid of the old rod and replace the new one from the dealer (has rubber bushing in it). UNFORTUNATELY, stuck in my outside Condo Parking lot with no electricity. Any Ideas on how to loosen the bolt away from the old rubber bushing??? Major problem for the past two days and cant get the damned bolt through the old bushing. ANY suggestions would help, like is there any really acidic solution that I could pour on the old rubber bushing to eat it away so that the bolt might push through easier? Thanks for you suggestions and help as this is the 2nd day Ive just been working on that ONE bolt. It is the lower rear strut rod that connects to the knuckle (which I got off easily) and at the other end towards the front of the car, that bushing is connected I believe to the carrier arm, and I cant get that bolt out.

Last edited by tyncobb; 11-17-09 at 02:12 PM. Reason: addtion to explanation
Old 11-17-09, 02:58 PM
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JimsGX
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Assuming its the strut rod marked #9 in the attached diagram, which end can't you get out? The one that bolts up to the frame on the left, or the one that bolts down to the base of the carrier, or both?
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Old 11-17-09, 03:10 PM
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tyncobb
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Default 94 ls400 Rear Strut Rod Bushing Problem

It is the one that bolts up to the frame. I got the one that bolts to the knuckle off fine, but the one that is on the forward end that faces towards the front of of the car and bolts to the frame, I cannot get the bolt out, as I mentioned, I have the nut off, but cannot push the bolt out through the side holes. Thanks for responding.
Old 11-17-09, 03:31 PM
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JimsGX
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All I can suggest is that you put a pipe wrench on the round part of the arm and try and work it back and forth to loosen up the bolt in there a bit. It shouldn't be that hard to get out (unless the bolt is bent). Does the bolt turn pretty easily when you put a wrench on it?
Old 11-17-09, 05:16 PM
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i used a 2x4 scrap, a jack, an ooold chisel that is smaller in OD than the bolt, and a hammer.

while you're at it replace the rear carrier arm bushing.
Old 11-17-09, 09:12 PM
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tyncobb
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Originally Posted by JimsGX
All I can suggest is that you put a pipe wrench on the round part of the arm and try and work it back and forth to loosen up the bolt in there a bit. It shouldn't be that hard to get out (unless the bolt is bent). Does the bolt turn pretty easily when you put a wrench on it?

Jim, the bolt does not turn that easy, have poured PB blaster on it for 2 days and tried heat. The bushing is really worn down and that is probably why the strut rod broke (also 320K miles on the car), and felt it shimmying several days before and just thought it was tires needing balancing, but now that I look back, the vibrations started back on the rear and then kind of worked their way up to the front like it needed an alignment. SO, it was the strut rod bushing being so worn that it just finally broke in two, while driving over a driveway bump.

Anyway, the bolt seems to be stuck in the two hole flange and I think it is that its frozen in the steel sleeve of the old bushing that it slides through on the bushing. Just dont have an answer on how to get it out, because there is no more than 1/2 inch on either end to get a hammer in and knock it out and cant seem to get any leverage on it, but dont want to cut the bolt if I dont have to, another special order for the damn bolt and more delays.

thanks
Old 11-17-09, 09:17 PM
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tyncobb
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
i used a 2x4 scrap, a jack, an ooold chisel that is smaller in OD than the bolt, and a hammer.

while you're at it replace the rear carrier arm bushing.
Thanks Pure, Ill try to replace that bushing too. I also appreciate the above ideas but I cant see how you found any room at either end of that bolt to either put a chisel on the end where the nut was or swing a hammer in those thight quarters. Seems like there is only about 1/2 inch at either end between the flange and the frame or the exhaust?
Old 11-17-09, 09:21 PM
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JimsGX
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I know its really tight quarters in there on either side of the bolt. I'd bite the bullet and cut it out inside both sides of the flange using a sawzall. The bolts probably worn down across where it makes contact with the steel sleeve of the bushing and isn't worth salvaging for reuse anyways.

Good luck with it...
Old 11-17-09, 09:24 PM
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JimsGX
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BTW - The carrier arm bushing you need to replace along with the strut rod is an Adus 505 polyurethane aftermarket bushing.
Old 11-17-09, 09:26 PM
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tyncobb
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
i used a 2x4 scrap, a jack, an ooold chisel that is smaller in OD than the bolt, and a hammer.

while you're at it replace the rear carrier arm bushing.
Pure, thanks for the info. Ill try to replace the carrier bushing too. But I cant figure out how you were able to use the jack and scrap to get any leverage or how you could get a chisel on the end of the bolt and swing a hammer at it?

On my strut rod at the upper end of the bushing, there is only about 1/2 inch space between the end of the bolt that I got the nut off and the frame, and then on the other end of the bolt, there only seems to be about an inch, just enough to get my 19mm socket on the end, but not much more room between that and the exhaust.?

Id give my left you know what, to be able to figure out a way to press that bolt out. Ive tried large goose necks but it wont budge. I tried using vice grips on the socket end of the bolt and tried to hit that with a hammer. Cant even get a chisel between the socket end of the bolt and the flange, to try to pry it out, but it doesnt budge. STUMPED.
Old 11-17-09, 11:14 PM
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use the jack and the wood to release the load on the bar itself, then use the hammer and chisel to get the bolt out.
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