Tires rubbing
#16
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The front rubs on the plastic but only on reverse with steering turned all the way. I did trim the plastic. I can trim some more but I'll only have about have the plastic left.
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It'll be alright if I just cut like half a ring. The back is to soft anyway. If I cut alot off say like 2 rings, you're right, it will be to bouncy. I see where I'm rubbing. It's rubbing on the actual body on the front part of the fender at the center. I alread cut that part of the plastic. I might be able to bang it in. It can't be seen unless the tire is off. It's right under the battery.
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the spring rate will not change unless the the properties of the metal are altered (i.e. excessive heat).
the "civic bounce" is a result of improper damping and/or travel. travel will be an issue. the tanabe springs are similar to stock rate and is already a ~2" drop. if you take much more out you will constantly bottom out the suspension. a related issue is the tanabe spring are too soft to be low, so much so that people generally stay away from them even in original form. the lower you go the more aggressive the spring rate should be to limit compression (i.e. not leaving your exhaust on the freeway).
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get your facts straight.
the spring rate will not change unless the the properties of the metal are altered (i.e. excessive heat).
the "civic bounce" is a result of improper damping and/or travel. travel will be an issue. the tanabe springs are similar to stock rate and is already a ~2" drop. if you take much more out you will constantly bottom out the suspension. a related issue is the tanabe spring are too soft to be low, so much so that people generally stay away from them even in original form. the lower you go the more aggressive the spring rate should be to limit compression (i.e. not leaving your exhaust on the freeway).
the spring rate will not change unless the the properties of the metal are altered (i.e. excessive heat).
the "civic bounce" is a result of improper damping and/or travel. travel will be an issue. the tanabe springs are similar to stock rate and is already a ~2" drop. if you take much more out you will constantly bottom out the suspension. a related issue is the tanabe spring are too soft to be low, so much so that people generally stay away from them even in original form. the lower you go the more aggressive the spring rate should be to limit compression (i.e. not leaving your exhaust on the freeway).
but i have a question then, every spring has is made with a certain length/thickness of metal that is coiled up a certain amount of time so that it will be able to properly compress on the road while it holds the weight of the car. so by cutting the spring u would b altering the amount of coils there are that are being compressed. so there would more strain on the spring caz there is less matal to desperse the weight and force of the car and bumps on the road which would cause the spring to compress more caz it cant hold the weight and force of the car as well as normaly should. therefore the rate in which the spring is able to compress has changed right?
mayb spring rate isnt the right term to be used but i cant c the spring being able to perform the same way after its been cut. if this werent tru then there wouldnt b a need for lowering springs caz then u could just cut it right?
i dont mean to change u BLKonBLK98, just want to no whether or not the way im thinking bout this is right or not caz thinking more about the physics of it, amount of metal in the spring vs weight of the car on the road
Last edited by Li Ls4; 01-12-10 at 06:45 AM.
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