LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

I think my tranny is toast after 301k miles 1995LS

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Old 02-12-10 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by blkstealthpaid4
6 months ago I was having hard shifting from 1st-2nd gear and especially in colder weather.I then took the car to Texaco(oil change place) to have them flush the tranny fluid with their flush system.After that, the system shifting got a lot better but a day later I was smelling coolant from inside the vents.I immediately popped the hood and saw coolant leaks from the seem area(top) of where the plastic meets the metal.The overheating never started until 2 weeks ago.I came on here and did an extensive search on some of the older threads.During this time I was always checking the coolant.


I then went ahead and bled the system.This cured my overheating and NO HEATER problems I was having.Driving 2 days ago through some back roads, the RPM immediately shot up and I lost much power.I pulled on side side of the road with the wife and new born twins and checked the tranny fluid and smell.The smell did seem normal but seemed very hot.

The initial first gear is the problem and it gets better when I shut it off for a while.I bought the car with 265k and that was a chance I took.

Anyway I found a guy on CL who claims he deals with only lexus parts.
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/1527216812.html

Here is his CL ad.I will go check out his shop before I have it Towed there.

When it rains it pours..........
My Dell Optiplex desktop that I bought on ebay started giving me blue screen of death errors.I researched the stop errors on MS website and it came up with bad physical memories.I then went to best buy and bought 1 GB memory to replace the existing two slots and now the damn machanine will not even power up.NO MORE DELL DESKTOPS FOR ME.


My misery hasn't ended yet.I am an independent trucker, and while driving through PA I was losing air pressure(air brakes).I took my RIG in to TA truck stop to replace my valve and now my cruise do not work.I HAVE THE WHOLE DASH APART trying to understand the electrical schematic and using my tester but I cannot figure this **** out.


WHEN WILL ALL MY PROBLEMOS END.

While on the roadm I had Hadi deliver a used tranny to the tranny shop.Hadi claimed it only had 145k miles on the clock and was from a crashed car 96LS.The tranny has been installed and I am yet to get home and test drive it.If this used tranny works, then I got a steal from Hadi for $500(this includes a used rad.)
Old 02-13-10 | 02:53 AM
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nice...good luck man i hope this works out
Old 02-20-10 | 01:40 PM
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Picked up the car a week ago.I had to change the radiator myself as it was leaking and wasn't holding pressure.
I first scanned for any check engine light, and I am getting a p0770 and p0135.One says the O2 sensor on bank one and the other says the shift solenoid.My second day of testing was a disaster.Up shifting through the guys was fine but when I was about to slow down to a complete stop, and the last gear that it ****s into, felt like a vibration in the drive line.This was intermittent.It felt like a vibration or a shuder through the wheels.It also felt like a slight jerk once it downshifts into the 1st gear.


The next day while cold outside, and only warming the car for 10 miuntes, the ECT light kept flashing.This stopped after about 30 miles.The shudder also got better as the days went by but the ECT light flashing is still there for the next 30 miles early in the mornings.

Sam had posted a DIY fix for harsh shifting.I wonder if this can be done on a 95.
I also went to the tranny place to tell them of the code.They said they will take a look at it but usually p0770 is a sign of a bad tranny.I was pissed, because this used tranny cannot also be bad.I wish they could have changed the tranny without any filter kit or flush.Just slap on the tranny and I come pick up my ****.
Old 02-20-10 | 02:41 PM
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The cable adjustment won't fix a bad tranny
Old 02-20-10 | 09:37 PM
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Just a suggestion, but you could buy this $1,500 '95 LS400 and take the tranny out (figuring it's good). If you have a backyard, you could part the rest of the car.

Maybe he'll even take it for less than $1,500.00

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/cto/1607143570.html
Old 02-21-10 | 01:30 AM
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Default Nope

I saw this AD being posted for the past 2 weeks.If this tranny is really bad, I will sell the car and find me another car.I really doubt my tranny is bad.I have seen flushes or whatever maintenance on trannies that acted up a bit after that.
Many people have their ECT light flashing and that vibration is not easily noticeable but when this tranny goes I will get rid of the car and never get that gen. again.Probably save up for a 430.
I spent 1300 on this ordeal and that is enough.
Old 02-21-10 | 02:07 AM
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^hope everything works out for you.. transmission work dont come cheap and I myself try to stay away that too
Old 02-21-10 | 10:15 PM
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This may help for diagnotics. I think it for the landcruiser but should still help in understanding

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT11.pdf

look at page 175

Last edited by sam12345; 02-21-10 at 10:25 PM.
Old 02-21-10 | 10:30 PM
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Here is the entire pdf menu. Very good information

http://www.autoshop101.com/
Old 02-22-10 | 05:27 PM
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had my 93 tranny rebuilt. it was at about a quarter million. the cost was 2400, car runs like a champ again. it will probably remain a champ for another 15 years. As for the engine.. beautiful engine.
Old 04-02-10 | 05:03 PM
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Default Banshee, your help is needed in this thread

As most of you knowm I am now back to square one with the same issue I had.This tranny from the junk yard has the same symptoms as the old one did.I should have listened to you guys and did the flush/fluid exchange myself before taking it to a tranny shop.I was thinking they were the experts.


I am now having the same symptoms again and this makes me believe the fluid they used was a Mercon Dextron III.They pretty much went by the book.

I will be home next week to do the job myself.I plan on getting a case of Type t-IV tranny fluid and the strainer/filter.
The question is, which step should I follow on www.lexls.com site?.
Banshee, I know you have a 95 and you just changed out the complete fluid in your tranny plus the filter.

Should I do this first http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/trans...anschange.html or this

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/trans...ransflush.html.
I just want to completely drain out the Dextron they have in there and put in the TYPE IV and at the same time change out the filter.


I called the damn tranny shop and told them I will be coming to pick up my other tranny they had taken out.If this fluid exchange works I might even sell the old one.
Old 04-03-10 | 04:32 PM
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Well, I'm not up to snuff on the need for T-IV over Mercon but that could possibly be an issue for you. Alway's do fluid/filter changes to the right stuff before doing major repairs. Follow the flush procedure that involves removing the line to the radiator and let it empty into a bucket with the engine running while you pour new fluid into the dipstick. Have a helper start/stop the engine when you want and have them go into each gear as the fluid is pumping out. Try not to run the pan empty. Here's what I do. Get a light colored bucket that you can see ATF levels through the side. Get an empty milk jug and fill it up with water and pour into the empty bucket one gallon at a time and mark each gallon level after you finish each jug with a magic marker. Then eye ball other marks that cut the gallons in the 1/4 (quart) intervals so you have a bucket with somewhat accurate graduations. That way as your pumping fluid out you'll see how much is coming out so you'll know how much to pour in as it's running. I remember it being pretty easy to keep up with. My big diesel truck's trans pump is so powerfull and fast that you have to overfill it to the max and crank it up and pour fluid in as fast as you can and it will still run dry if you don't shut it off after a certain ammount pumps out. So at least it won't be that difficult for you.

After you flush, drop the pan and replace the filter and clean the magnets. Leave the battery disconnected while you do this to reset the strategy's so you'll have a fresh start when you road test it after you work is complete.
Old 04-03-10 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Banshee365
Well, I'm not up to snuff on the need for T-IV over Mercon but that could possibly be an issue for you. Alway's do fluid/filter changes to the right stuff before doing major repairs. Follow the flush procedure that involves removing the line to the radiator and let it empty into a bucket with the engine running while you pour new fluid into the dipstick. Have a helper start/stop the engine when you want and have them go into each gear as the fluid is pumping out. Try not to run the pan empty. Here's what I do. Get a light colored bucket that you can see ATF levels through the side. Get an empty milk jug and fill it up with water and pour into the empty bucket one gallon at a time and mark each gallon level after you finish each jug with a magic marker. Then eye ball other marks that cut the gallons in the 1/4 (quart) intervals so you have a bucket with somewhat accurate graduations. That way as your pumping fluid out you'll see how much is coming out so you'll know how much to pour in as it's running. I remember it being pretty easy to keep up with. My big diesel truck's trans pump is so powerfull and fast that you have to overfill it to the max and crank it up and pour fluid in as fast as you can and it will still run dry if you don't shut it off after a certain ammount pumps out. So at least it won't be that difficult for you.

After you flush, drop the pan and replace the filter and clean the magnets. Leave the battery disconnected while you do this to reset the strategy's so you'll have a fresh start when you road test it after you work is complete.
So you are saying after the fluid change/flush then drop the pan and change the filter right?Good info, I will update in 2 weeks.
Thanks Banshee.
Old 04-10-10 | 06:50 PM
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Banshee, I am heading home and I am about to do this fix but a question just hit me.Will I not loose all my TYPE T-IV tranny oil when I drop the pan?I was thinking it was the other way round, as in, drop the pan and change the filter/strainer and then change the fluid fluid through the Pump action.Please enlighten me on which method is first.
Old 04-10-10 | 09:33 PM
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yes thats what I would do so you don't circulate all the junk at the bottom of your pan into the solenoids. Drop the pan, clean the filter and the pan, put the pan back on, then change the fluid with the poor man's flush method (using the transmission cooler line)


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