Anybody install a Remote Start?
01-13-10, 12:29 PM
#31
The PKALL is a great bypass for Toyota/Lexus vehicles, easy to program and install and doesn't require you to loose a key.
That said, the LS400 isn't hard to do, just more time consuming.
01-13-10, 11:33 PM
#32
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Everyone has an opinion . Solder is the best for solid non moving parts on a circuit board . You do not subject solder joints to movement without isolating it . This does not mean running tie straps . No pro uses solder unless they are eccentric and listened to some non professional show them how to work on a car.
Who uses T taps , are you installing neon license plate lights . Solid wire crimps twisted . When done properly with the proper tools it is perfect .
A harness is more than just the plugs on the ends it is everything in between .
Solder is the best ? So what solder are you using , tin , lead ? What is the ratio , did you know there are ratios and why. Strength over resistance .
I am not talking because I like to tell people what to do ,I am trying to give you an idea that what you think as a layman installer seems like a great idea is not common practice for a reason by the profession .
Who uses T taps , are you installing neon license plate lights . Solid wire crimps twisted . When done properly with the proper tools it is perfect .
A harness is more than just the plugs on the ends it is everything in between .
Solder is the best ? So what solder are you using , tin , lead ? What is the ratio , did you know there are ratios and why. Strength over resistance .
I am not talking because I like to tell people what to do ,I am trying to give you an idea that what you think as a layman installer seems like a great idea is not common practice for a reason by the profession .
01-14-10, 09:17 AM
#33
I use 63/37 tin/lead solder for it's low melting point and decent tensile strength. I also do use crimp connections a fair amount, just not on remote starts.
I solder all connections on remote starts and place a wire tie an inch or so from the joint to act as a strain relief and have never had an issue with a joint breaking. When I solder I never solder at an angle to the existing wire, I run all wiring in parallel with the existing to avoid stress on the solder joint. It's much easier to strip and solder to a wire that is difficult to access than having to cut, strip, and crimp. A crimp tool can be very difficult to maneuver and use while working deep in a dash. Also, most crimp connections do not have a strain relief and can have the similar issues an unbraced solder connection can have. It's important to brace any connection that is made to existing wiring.
In the rare instance there is a connection failure I would rather have a cold solder create an issue with a remote start than a crimp connection fall apart and and cause the loss of an important vehicle function. In my opinion soldering is much less risky and cold solders can be easily prevented by using a good soldering iron and high quality solder.
That being said, if I was creating a harness for a F1 car or anything that was subject to heavy vibration I would not use solder, but for an average vehicle soldering creates a excellent, low resistance, and generally trouble free connection.
I'm not at all opposed to crimp connections and use them a decent amount, but I always prefer to solder to an existing harness especially in the instance of a remote start in a normal passenger vehicle. In my previous post I was advocating not using t-taps as I have yet to see a shop that uses crimp connectors on remote starts. In which case I would use solder or a crimp connection any day over a t-tap.
Both have their pros and cons, but in this specific application it would seem soldering has more pros.
Either way OP, if you don't feel comfortable doing the remote start bring it to a good installation shop and you can be confident that the solder connections that they will most likely make should last much longer than the vehicle.
I solder all connections on remote starts and place a wire tie an inch or so from the joint to act as a strain relief and have never had an issue with a joint breaking. When I solder I never solder at an angle to the existing wire, I run all wiring in parallel with the existing to avoid stress on the solder joint. It's much easier to strip and solder to a wire that is difficult to access than having to cut, strip, and crimp. A crimp tool can be very difficult to maneuver and use while working deep in a dash. Also, most crimp connections do not have a strain relief and can have the similar issues an unbraced solder connection can have. It's important to brace any connection that is made to existing wiring.
In the rare instance there is a connection failure I would rather have a cold solder create an issue with a remote start than a crimp connection fall apart and and cause the loss of an important vehicle function. In my opinion soldering is much less risky and cold solders can be easily prevented by using a good soldering iron and high quality solder.
That being said, if I was creating a harness for a F1 car or anything that was subject to heavy vibration I would not use solder, but for an average vehicle soldering creates a excellent, low resistance, and generally trouble free connection.
I'm not at all opposed to crimp connections and use them a decent amount, but I always prefer to solder to an existing harness especially in the instance of a remote start in a normal passenger vehicle. In my previous post I was advocating not using t-taps as I have yet to see a shop that uses crimp connectors on remote starts. In which case I would use solder or a crimp connection any day over a t-tap.
Both have their pros and cons, but in this specific application it would seem soldering has more pros.
Either way OP, if you don't feel comfortable doing the remote start bring it to a good installation shop and you can be confident that the solder connections that they will most likely make should last much longer than the vehicle.
Last edited by Scotty; 01-14-10 at 11:56 AM.
01-14-10, 12:10 PM
#35
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Everyone has an opinion . Solder is the best for solid non moving parts on a circuit board . You do not subject solder joints to movement without isolating it . This does not mean running tie straps . No pro uses solder unless they are eccentric and listened to some non professional show them how to work on a car.
Who uses T taps , are you installing neon license plate lights . Solid wire crimps twisted . When done properly with the proper tools it is perfect .
A harness is more than just the plugs on the ends it is everything in between .
Solder is the best ? So what solder are you using , tin , lead ? What is the ratio , did you know there are ratios and why. Strength over resistance .
I am not talking because I like to tell people what to do ,I am trying to give you an idea that what you think as a layman installer seems like a great idea is not common practice for a reason by the profession .
Who uses T taps , are you installing neon license plate lights . Solid wire crimps twisted . When done properly with the proper tools it is perfect .
A harness is more than just the plugs on the ends it is everything in between .
Solder is the best ? So what solder are you using , tin , lead ? What is the ratio , did you know there are ratios and why. Strength over resistance .
I am not talking because I like to tell people what to do ,I am trying to give you an idea that what you think as a layman installer seems like a great idea is not common practice for a reason by the profession .
01-17-10, 04:23 PM
#36
Driver School Candidate
Remote start in LS
Okay, I assume you know you need to do it right, I mean solder well all wires and do other things right.
So if you are sure you know what you do:
Yes, you need bypass for immobilizer. I own LS 99 and I put remote start recently. I used Scytek alarm, bought it from Asianwolf, I don't know anything about the viper you gonna to put, but it doesn't matter. The bypass I used is DEI 1100X. It's cheap and works. I paid $16.99 on Ebay.
The wires for alarm: the best place is by ignition. The wires for bypass - I found the best place is behind glove box on ECU connectors. With bypass you get all wire colors. If you need more info - just let me know.
To lock and unlock the doors: it's a little tricky thing. you need to put wires to the doors. I still have an issue how to unlock factory alarm when I'm unlocking aftermarket alarm, but I have an idea, going to check it soon, when I will have time.
So if you are sure you know what you do:
Yes, you need bypass for immobilizer. I own LS 99 and I put remote start recently. I used Scytek alarm, bought it from Asianwolf, I don't know anything about the viper you gonna to put, but it doesn't matter. The bypass I used is DEI 1100X. It's cheap and works. I paid $16.99 on Ebay.
The wires for alarm: the best place is by ignition. The wires for bypass - I found the best place is behind glove box on ECU connectors. With bypass you get all wire colors. If you need more info - just let me know.
To lock and unlock the doors: it's a little tricky thing. you need to put wires to the doors. I still have an issue how to unlock factory alarm when I'm unlocking aftermarket alarm, but I have an idea, going to check it soon, when I will have time.
01-22-10, 03:41 PM
#37
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Also soon to be released.......Viper SmartStart for Blackberrys
01-22-10, 03:59 PM
#38
Lexus Test Driver
Found an article on the Blackberry Smart Start. Kind of pricey. If you pay retail for it, it's $299 for the Smart Start in addition to the alarm / remote start system itself...
"Retailers already carry the necessary hardware - either the VSM100 Viper SmartStart module, or the equivalent DSM100 Directed SmartStart module, each with an MSRP of $299. Besides the free app, users will also need a compatible Viper, Python or Clifford remote start or remote start/security system, available at thousands of authorized retailers nationwide including Best Buy stores"
.
"Retailers already carry the necessary hardware - either the VSM100 Viper SmartStart module, or the equivalent DSM100 Directed SmartStart module, each with an MSRP of $299. Besides the free app, users will also need a compatible Viper, Python or Clifford remote start or remote start/security system, available at thousands of authorized retailers nationwide including Best Buy stores"
.
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