96 LS400 Post Timing Belt change Issues!!!!
05-26-12, 09:54 AM
#66
I need your help. I did the unthinkable (I believe) –
1. With the old timing belt still installed, I set the crankshaft pulley at 50 degrees of Top Dead Center (the zero on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the No. 2 Idler Pulley Bolt, as instructed in the manual);
CHECK CRANKSHAFT PULLEY POSITION
Check that the timing mark of the crankshaft pulley is aligned
with the centers of the crankshaft pulley and the idler pulley bolt.
2. I removed the old timing belt, installed new pulleys, etc.. and I then proceeded to install the new timing belt.
2. I made sure the timing marks on the right & left camshafts aligned with the marks on the timing belt.
3. I installed the Timing Belt Tensioner (torqued the bolts) but I did not pull the pin.
4. I removed the spark plugs (helps when turning the crankshaft pulley).
5. Here is where I begin to panic – In order to check the valve timing, I slowly turned the crankshaft pulley clockwise, 2 revolutions from TDC to TDC (as the manual states). The result is that the timing marks on the right and left camshaft pulleys do not align with the marks on the timing belt. What really scares me is that as I was turning the crankshaft pulley, there were times where it was a bit harder to turn. Please note that I went very slow while turning the crankshaft pulley.
The most important question is (here is where I panic);
1. Did I cause any damage when turning the crankshaft pulley and experiencing the times where it was a bit harder to turn (Interference Engine)?
My next question is;
2. How do I proceed in order to get the timing marks on the camshaft pulleys to align with the timing marks on the timing belt? The manual states;
If the timing marks do not align, remove the timing belt and reinstall
it.
Do I remove the timing belt from the camshaft pulleys, turn the camshaft pulleys in order to match the timing marks from both the camshaft pulleys and the timing belt and then re-install the timing belt? I am very concerned being that this is an interference engine.
I want to thank everyone, in advance, for your help. You don’t know how much I really appreciate you.
1. With the old timing belt still installed, I set the crankshaft pulley at 50 degrees of Top Dead Center (the zero on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the No. 2 Idler Pulley Bolt, as instructed in the manual);
CHECK CRANKSHAFT PULLEY POSITION
Check that the timing mark of the crankshaft pulley is aligned
with the centers of the crankshaft pulley and the idler pulley bolt.
2. I removed the old timing belt, installed new pulleys, etc.. and I then proceeded to install the new timing belt.
2. I made sure the timing marks on the right & left camshafts aligned with the marks on the timing belt.
3. I installed the Timing Belt Tensioner (torqued the bolts) but I did not pull the pin.
4. I removed the spark plugs (helps when turning the crankshaft pulley).
5. Here is where I begin to panic – In order to check the valve timing, I slowly turned the crankshaft pulley clockwise, 2 revolutions from TDC to TDC (as the manual states). The result is that the timing marks on the right and left camshaft pulleys do not align with the marks on the timing belt. What really scares me is that as I was turning the crankshaft pulley, there were times where it was a bit harder to turn. Please note that I went very slow while turning the crankshaft pulley.
The most important question is (here is where I panic);
1. Did I cause any damage when turning the crankshaft pulley and experiencing the times where it was a bit harder to turn (Interference Engine)?
My next question is;
2. How do I proceed in order to get the timing marks on the camshaft pulleys to align with the timing marks on the timing belt? The manual states;
If the timing marks do not align, remove the timing belt and reinstall
it.
Do I remove the timing belt from the camshaft pulleys, turn the camshaft pulleys in order to match the timing marks from both the camshaft pulleys and the timing belt and then re-install the timing belt? I am very concerned being that this is an interference engine.
I want to thank everyone, in advance, for your help. You don’t know how much I really appreciate you.
The timing marks on the timing belt will NEVER align with the marks on the Cam pulleys again after you rotate the Crank Shaft pulley. The time marks on the timing belt were used to align with the marks on the pulleys ONLY AT the TIME when you install it.
05-26-12, 11:27 AM
#67
Hey Jeff,
I followed your instructions to a tee and it worked !!!!!! I slowly turned the crank two revolutions and sure enough the crank pulley mark is at zero and the marks on the camshafts line up with the marks on the back plate. Also, the marks on the actual timing belt no longer line-up with the camshaft marks (just as you said).
I do have one concern - when I turn the crankshaft, the first revolution turns freely. When I turn a second time, there is little resistance while turning the crankshaft (it doesn't turn as freely as the first revolution). Is this normal?
I followed your instructions to a tee and it worked !!!!!! I slowly turned the crank two revolutions and sure enough the crank pulley mark is at zero and the marks on the camshafts line up with the marks on the back plate. Also, the marks on the actual timing belt no longer line-up with the camshaft marks (just as you said).
I do have one concern - when I turn the crankshaft, the first revolution turns freely. When I turn a second time, there is little resistance while turning the crankshaft (it doesn't turn as freely as the first revolution). Is this normal?
05-26-12, 11:38 AM
#69
Jeff, you are awesome. Thank you so much for your help. I truly appreciate it. I will let you know once I put everything together.
On a side note - have you ever rebuilt your power steering pump? I removed it (I am plugging the 'air control valve') and I am debating whether to tear it apart or not? There appears to be a minor leak.
Thank you again.
Joe
On a side note - have you ever rebuilt your power steering pump? I removed it (I am plugging the 'air control valve') and I am debating whether to tear it apart or not? There appears to be a minor leak.
Thank you again.
Joe
05-26-12, 11:57 AM
#70
heh, you're gonna love this:
Take your power steering pump off, and clean it so it looks beautiful outside.
Then look at the valve that has the two vacuum nozzles on it for your idle up.
Remove that valve, and go to the hardware store and get a stubby bolt, plug the hole with the stubby bolt.
cap off the two vacuum lines.
You're done. It'll stop leaking. The diaphram in that little vacuum idle up switch fails, and has failed on all my LS400s, and some of my GS300s, I plug it with a bolt, and they stop leaking instantly. I've never had one leak in any other place.
Jeff
Take your power steering pump off, and clean it so it looks beautiful outside.
Then look at the valve that has the two vacuum nozzles on it for your idle up.
Remove that valve, and go to the hardware store and get a stubby bolt, plug the hole with the stubby bolt.
cap off the two vacuum lines.
You're done. It'll stop leaking. The diaphram in that little vacuum idle up switch fails, and has failed on all my LS400s, and some of my GS300s, I plug it with a bolt, and they stop leaking instantly. I've never had one leak in any other place.
Jeff
05-26-12, 12:02 PM
#72
oh, the little vacuum thingy leaks ever so slightly, and leaks into the motor, and just past the vacuum seal, so when the motor is running, it mostly sucks it up, and then leaks a little when you're not at the ideal setting. it took me forever to find it the first time, but I took the vacuum lines of a car I was working on, just after I'd cleaned then entire motor, and saw the ps fluid leaking OUT of the nipple, and thought, huh.....
Then replaced it with a bolt, problem instantly went away, and I haven't looked back. And the ls400s power steering system is strong enough not to even need an idle up for normal use. I couldn't tell a difference with (a broken) vacuum line and without.
That should save you an afternoon worth of work you didn't have to do 8-).
Then replaced it with a bolt, problem instantly went away, and I haven't looked back. And the ls400s power steering system is strong enough not to even need an idle up for normal use. I couldn't tell a difference with (a broken) vacuum line and without.
That should save you an afternoon worth of work you didn't have to do 8-).
05-26-12, 12:17 PM
#73
That is exactly what I was going to do (plug the 'air control valve' or ACV).
That is a nice sigh of relief - I really didn't want to take the pump apart. My LS400 has been stationery for a long time. I need to get it back on the road.
Thanks. I will keep you posted.
That is a nice sigh of relief - I really didn't want to take the pump apart. My LS400 has been stationery for a long time. I need to get it back on the road.
Thanks. I will keep you posted.
05-29-12, 08:49 AM
#74
Someone was in your situation before, and you did nothing wrong.
The timing marks on the timing belt will NEVER align with the marks on the Cam pulleys again after you rotate the Crank Shaft pulley. The time marks on the timing belt were used to align with the marks on the pulleys ONLY AT the TIME when you install it.
The timing marks on the timing belt will NEVER align with the marks on the Cam pulleys again after you rotate the Crank Shaft pulley. The time marks on the timing belt were used to align with the marks on the pulleys ONLY AT the TIME when you install it.
05-29-12, 09:07 AM
#75
I was putting everything back together and I hit a minor stumbling block.
When I started the timing belt project, I got the pulley from the accessory belt tensioner confused with the idler pulley. Long story short, I ripped the bolt off of the tensioner (this is a reverse bolt pattern and this bolt should not be removed). Anyway I ordered another Belt Tensioner (Hayden 5806) installed it and I went to install the lower right timing belt cover (that sits on top of the tensioner) and it will not seat properly because the Hayden 5806 belt tensioner is NOT a direct replacement for the LS400. The dimensions do not match the OEM tensioner. So now I have to find a compatible aftermarket tensioner or get an original OEM tensioner for $271 (ouch).
Have you, or has anyone else ever had to purchase a new tensioner? If so, what brand/model no. was it?
Thanks again. I really appreciate it.