well, put the tps back and made sure it was adjusted per tsrm specs. also, pulled the intake pipe from the tb to maf. the coupler at the tb is a rubber slip on piece. it was shoved inside the tb on the bottom, i fixed that. also the hose from the iscv t ot he pipe had a crack in it on one end. so i replaced it. car runs much better but still bucks if the gas is pressed too hard. still giving the tps code also. i drove it to tire kingdom for the new tires yesterday and it drove much better but still not right. ive emailed ati who rebuilt the ecu. they said i can send it in to be checked and fixed under the warranty. first though, im gonna make an intake pipe out of metal so i know for sure it isnt leaking. im afraid that stupid box below the pipe has separated at one of its joints and is leaking.

 

ok, fixed the flashing brake light issue. apparently when i pull the ebrake release and the ebrake disengages, the foot pedal didnt retract all the way. i guess the spring is worn out. ill have to check this weekend. i drove it to work today so i can put it on the lift at my friends shop after work to fix the exhaust, change the rack, etc...

while driving i went to put my foot on the dead pedal and the ebrake lever was touching the top of my foot. so i pulled the release and used my foot to lift it the rest of the way. now the brake light is no longer flashing while i drive. simple fix. lol. i had engaged and disengaged it many times trying to figure out the prob as it never happend till i put the ebrake on when i jacked it up to check the exhaust leak. oh well. at least it wasnt anything serious.


on a side note, i had a tech emailing me from auto truck electronics, last i heard from him he told me to check for 10v at the idl pin on the tps connector. i did and told him i had 5v to vc, 10v to idl ,and gnd was gnd, but the odd thing is that the vta pin has 1.7v to it. since this is with the tps unplugged shouldnt it read 0v? does anyone know? if it is supposed to be 0v then that indicates its a bad ecu and i need to send it back to them to be repaired correctly. reason i assume it should be 0v is because this is the wire used to measure the voltage of the vta pin on the tps at varios throttle positions to let the ecu know where the throttle is. i cant imagine how it should have any voltage to it at all.

 

ok, friday night i went to my friends shop and put the car on the lift. we swapped the rack and pinion out(power steering didnt work until i drove it for ~90min. guess i had air in the lines), and got the cat off the manifold on the drivers side. couldnt get the studs to unthread so had to cut them off, grind flush, and then heated with a torch and drilled them out. a total PITA!!!!!!!!!. but got it done. no more exhaust leak on the drivers side. the passenger side has a leak from the cat to manifold though, not bad though. ill try to change that gasket this week, was too tired when we finally got done before.


also, discovered the rear trans seal wasnt leaking. was just power steering fluid that ran down the tunnel from the rack while driving the dripped off in my driveway. looked like the rear main was leaking, but pulled the inspection cover and bone dry inside the trans. turns out looks like the valve covers are leaking, so thats another thing on the list to do. also the trans mount is shot, another part to buy. motor mounts looked really good though.

oh, and i changed the front pads. i need a new drivers side pad sensor as mine is messed up. whoever put the clip in the last time they were changed put it backwards so it came into contact with the rotor as it wasnt held in place.

very next thing on the list is an alignment, and to get this stupid tps issue 100% resolved. im gonna call ati today about it. i think i need to send the ecu back in.

 

well, pulled the ecu last night so i can mail it back to ate today. while i had easy access to it i checked the vta and idl voltages at the ecu while the tps was connected. idl was 10v closed and 0v full throttle. vta was 1.7v closed and 3.5ish v full throttle, so the tps is making contact at the connector as well. only thing it can be is the ecu, so its going back under warranty. sucks i have to waste more time and my own money to ship it back to them as they didnt fix it right the first time. heres hoping they repair it correctly this time. ill keep everyone updated.

 

Thanks for all the info, I hope you get this fixed soon!

 

hope all goes well with your car william. I had a very similar story. bought the car around 2200 and ended up putting "mucho dinero" into the car lol as far as repairs go. I guess you live and you learn but the things i had to do are as follows:

Catalytic Converters
O2 sensors (there no was 2nd guessing about replacing them)
entire exhaust pipe assembly
power steering hose
both rear struts
instrument cluster needed new needles
and other miscellaneous stuff

All in all im not too upset because once everything was up and running the car ran smooth. Although now im having idling problems that might have to do with the TB. Not sure if its the IACV or TPS or just the throttle body itself being dirty.

 

well i need to clean my tb also, but want to fix this stupid error 41 issue first. i hope they fix the ecu correctly this time or im going to demand a refund.

also, the rear of my car bottoms out when my friend and his wife are in the back seat. he is a big guy but obviously the springs are worn out more then i thought they were. when i bought my car i was given a set of eibach springs and rear shocks with it. gonna install those next after i get the ecu back. should stiffen it up and help it handle MUCH better then it currently does.

 

yah i paid eight hundred for mine immedietly changed all of this

timing belt
front and rear air suspension conv. to coil
new tires
new brakes/rotors
fuel lines fuel pump head unit
interior led mods
rear trans. seal
master cylinder
power steering pump
lcd screen on clock / temp
minor body work on drivers side front fender/bumper
new power antenna
new double din cd/dvd/ipod docking station
new front drivers and passengers window regulators/motors
all new ngk iridium spark plugs ngk wires
adjusted lifters 5 and 7 (runs as quiet as a hybrid)
new ss brake lines
new batt.
new bulbs everything
all of that work done in 2 weeks and 5400 dollars poorer my ls is running good again
since then still running strong will post pics soon i just picked up another 93 4/22/10 for 1800 and it need some love so imma just fix it up and sell it i let everyone know when she ready to go out

 

got the ecu back for the 2nd time from ate. same exact issue, except now instead of getting just error 41, im also getting error 47. so now im getting a sub tps error as well. my car does not have traction control so doesnt have a subtps. i have verified the correct wires are jumpered together for the sub tps signal. this is really making me mad. not only have they not fixed it as adbvertised for the 2nd time, but now it has more issues.

 

this is the point i'd get my money back and just buy a junkyard ecu or 5....

 

ok, checked the intake pipe. no vacum leaks. measured the voltages at the tps plug again with it unplugged and it STILL has 1.7v on the vta wire. does anyone here have a 93-94 ls400 that can measure the voltages at the tps plug with it unplugged please? i want to know if a cr running perfectly has 1.7v on the vta wire when the connector is unplugged. it would be greatly appreciated.

 

I have a 93 LS400 and was having similar bucking symptoms under hard acceleration. I took it to lexus several times and they would try to sell me different parts each time. The problem started after the timing belt service I had done at Lexus. They told me the EGR valve was full of carbon deposits and that if I wanted to change it it would cost $900 dollars because my car had California emissions. They recommended that I run a can of BG300 (I think) in my gas tank. Well, it got a little better or at least wasn't as noticeable. It got bad about 6000 miles later. I took it back to Lexus and when it was actually doing it at idle as well. They connected it to the diagnostic computer and told me that it was the MAF ($800). I found a remanufactured one for $300 and installed it but nothing changed. Well, it turned out to be a bad coil pack. Specifically, the one on the front of the engine that is easily accessible. The part cost $93 and I installed it in 10 minutes. Incidentally, the bad coil pack was tested and said to be functioning properly. The issue is that the person testing has to test it under engine load and not at idle.

I hope that this helps.

 

i dont have coil packs. mine is a 93 and has 2 distributors. plus the only errors im getting is for tps. does anyone have a 93-94 ls400 ecu they can sell me? im really tired of this crap.

 

you do have ignition coils....what do you think provides spark to the distributors.

 

i didnt say i dont have ignition coils. i said i dont have coil packs. a coil pack is a pack of multiple coils. the newer ls's have coil on plug much like i run on the 7mgte in my 84 supra with standalone and the 6 channel camry ignitor. trust me, i know how to check things having built a ms2 and engine harness, installed it myself, tuned it myself etc.., plus i have my A.S. in electronics and use to do level 2 support for the repair shops for philips/magnavox. i was the guy reading the diagrams telling them what toi check so they could fix the tv's. i know what im doing. ive also rebuilt dozens of engines, a few rear ends, made the adaptor plate to fit an lt1 t56 from a camaro to my 7mgte etc... i can weld also when needed. i took welding in hs and have a 120v wire feed mig for exhausts and stuff and then have a miller 320 a/b p 220 tig with 25ft water cooled torch, high freq built in, etc.. says 200amp output in a/c but its actually more like 300amp output. its an old transformer machine. huge but works like a champ.