Schnitz

iTrader: (5)

Hold on, you're cash strapped but you keep throwing money in the more expensive obscure places. In other words, replace the plugs/wires/ clean the throttle body & air filter and go from there. I like the KISS method.
You're just wasting time, energy and cash until those things are done.
You might want to try Seafoam as well.

StevieA

OK, thanks. Cleaning the throttle body - is that manually taking apart and scrubbing with a cleaner/brush etc? Or is that where you spray a canister into the intake while the engine runs?

Thanks

blunden

I've done the whole MAF and throttle body cleaning, plus spark plugs, etc. IMHO cleaning the throttle body and changing the plugs will only give an incremental change in performance, unless the plugs are really fouled. On the other hand, cleaning the MAF sensor could have a big effect consistent with the problems you are having. Be sure to use the right cleaner as this is an expensive part. Also clean the electrical contacts while you are at it. Cleaning the throttle body is hard without taking the whole thing off. It is the back of the second plate that gets really gummy. You can have a look before taking it off to see how bad it is. If it isn't too bad you might be able to just spray in cleaner and use a toothbrush to get at it. Let us know the results.

StevieA

Bought some electrical contact cleaner from maritime auto parts today. Will clean the MAF as soon as I have a chance. Test it. If no imprvement will replace caps rotors plugs wires. Maybe clean throttle body.

Went for a 300km trip today. Had periods of working half-decent to working like a dog with engine light on when coming home.

Will report results if any changes.

blunden

What engine codes are you showing? If you don't already know how to pull them, go to lexls.com

tomtheslac

Just posted similar problems. Does yours start hauling at 2500 rpm? Mine is ok above that, but otherwise the problems seems similar. I have cleaned throttle body and MAF but no change yet...

StevieA

Cleaned the MAF. No change in performance.

Performance was still poor when suddenly engine light came on on my last 4 hour drive the other day which did not cause any change in performance as its still poor. Next step will check the codes if I have a chance tomorrow using the lexls site.

That's a great site!

StevieA

Cleaned the MAF too no change here either. The only time mine hold a candle of performing correctly is a stab at 100kph on the hiway with O/D and TRAC on. But it still doesn't feel as healthy as it used to be. Of course starting & idling are smooth. Just overall lack of power to varying degrees. Shutting off TRAC & OD and setting shift to performance REALLY kills the performance. If I were to drive it around slowly at the speedlimit I'd really have nothoing to complain about it's just when you step on it that it performs like a Hyundai Pony average of 16 seconds 0-60 when it should be somewhere over 8 seconds. And it used to be when I first got it. It was fun felt like a Chrysler HEMI 300M. Then one day it all changed.

One suspicion I have is the catalytic converter has plugged. Thinking of unhooking exhaust below the headers and going for a spin. If that helps and I confirm my suspicion, can I remove it or do I need to replace it. By the way, there' likley more than one of th9is '93 LS is there? Been awhile since I've had it on the hoist.

If that doesn't work I'm going to replace the plugs, wires,caps, rotors. I my clean throttle body as well. How about cleaning the EGR valve?

StevieA

OK

Little confused now. Just checked engine light using lexls.com. Had a hell of a time getting wires into the diagnosis plug couldn't always see where I was sticking the. Also, when my engine light comes on TRAC AWALYS comes on with it.

When I tried first I got engine light solid while air air bag and o/d blinked continuously. TRAC blinked 7 times, small pause, then one blink. Laung pause & repeat.

Next time I tried engine light was continuous blinking.

I THINK what it's telling me is EGR valve which COULD be a source of my problems. However I'm suspicious whether I did the diagnosis correctly laying on my back with a flashlight in the dark. So maybe I'll try again tomorrow becuase there is no 71 under TRAC codes but there is one under the engine and its the EGR valve.

Och

iTrader: (3)

Stevie, I had exact the same problem with my 94 when I had it. I battled this problem, replaced nearly everything, including new MAF, did all the maintenance, EGR, you name it, and all with no cigar. You can search this forum, I had like a 20 page thread on this going on since 2006.

I no longer have the car, but it still itches my curiosity what the hell was wrong with it, and what the culprit was. If you ever resolve it, please post, I'd love to know.

When I gave up on mine, the only thing that I haven't replaced was the ECU. I did try ECU rebuilding service but that didn't help. If I was to do it all over today, I'd probably start with a brand new factory ECU.

StevieA

OK Here we go HINT TO EVERYBODY - USE THE CHECK CONNECTOR IN THE ENGINE BAY, much easier to work with.

This time it made sense.

I got 3 engine codes.

24 - Intake Air tem. sensor signal
25- Air-Fuel ratio lean malfunction
31- Air Flow Meter Signal

Note all these codes appeared Aug 26th on my way home from a 4 hour drive and did not effect performance. Aug 27th I cleaned the MAF.

So I just removed the EFI 20A and cleared the codes. Air bag haa now appeared - will clear that later. Took it for a drive. Felt decent, although these symptoms vary sometimes its not bad sometimes I swear it has 90HP. Wait a few days see how it performs & if noting changes I'll do the catalytic converter check or the plugs/wires/caps rotors or ask my used parts buddy for an ECU and transmission ECU and EGR to try

StevieA

Och- I read most of your thread - disapointed to find no solution :-(

Hopefully I can find one - if I do I certainly will post

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

sounds like the AFM is gone....

StevieA

Will have an AFM off a '91 with 100,000kms to try tonight

deanshark

I agree with PureDrifter on the AFM is SHOT. You unplugged it and there was no change, something should have been different, other than the engine light. If the one from the 91 doesn't work, you might as well try changing the ECU, if your buddy lets you use it. (No harm in trying it) It doesn't take long to change that out. But, like everyone has suggested over and over, TUNE-UP. It's been sitting for years and you don't know how it was treated before you acquired it. You said that you changed O2 sensor, just one or all of them? If one, have your mechanic buddy check the others with a meter.
I hope that AFM works for you but either way, again, TUNE-UP.