New Ls400 owner... having a few problems
11-17-10, 12:51 PM
#1
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New Ls400 owner... having a few problems
So i bought a 92 Ls400 a week ago and i pulled trouble codes and i have...
Engine code 26 AFR rich malfunction (i would say so as ive gotten 7mpg roughly on a quarter tank)
and a Transmission code 68 Short circuit in kick-down switch
im trying to use
to further it but i cant find the diagnostic plug in the engine bay (ive googled and searched forums high and low)
they both seem about right as far as code description goes as the engine is tearing through gas and starts up and you can smell the gas very strong. And the transmission is upshifting before 2k rpm at full throttle and it takes finesse to get it to 4k.
any help is greatly appreciated as i need to get back to job hunting tomorrow(moved to Montana from Arizona and picked up this car for 1500 with 237k miles)
Engine code 26 AFR rich malfunction (i would say so as ive gotten 7mpg roughly on a quarter tank)
and a Transmission code 68 Short circuit in kick-down switch
im trying to use
DIAG. TROUBLE CODE 25/26 FOR 93 SC400
There is a DLC1 under the hood. It’s a small black box with a cap covered located at the front left of the engine.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature
2. Connect terminal TE1 and E1 with a paper clip.
3. With a voltmeter, connect positive probe to terminal VF1, VF2 and negative probe to terminal E1 of the DLC1. Probe VF1 and E1 then VF2 and E1.
4. Warm up the oxygen sensor by running engine at 2,500 rpm for about 2 minutes.
5. Then, maintain engine at 2,500 rpm, count how many times needle of volt meter fluctuates between 0 and 5 V.
Results
Needle fluctuates 8 times OK
Continue at 0 V NG type I
Continue at 5V NG type II
Check Voltage between terminals OX1, OX2 and E1 of DLC1.
NG type I
1. Engine still at normal operating temperature.
2. Measure voltage between terminal OX1, OX2 and E1 of DLC1 when engine suddenly race to full throttle.
3. The voltage should be 0.5 V or higher at least once----OK
Need to perform this inspection within 1 sec.
NG type II
There are too much in formation to type in here. Need the whole repair manual.
There is another check for oxygen sensor
1. Start engine and warm up
2. After engine is warm up, let it idle for 3 min.
3. With A/C ON and trans. In D position (O/D ON) perform gradual acceleration within the range 1,300-1,700 rpm (centered around 1,500 rpm)
(Take care that the engine speed does not fall below 1,200 rpm when shifting. Gradually depress the accelerator pedal and kept it steady so that engine breaking does not occur.)
4. Maintain the vehicle speed at 40-50 mph (64-80 km/h)
5. keep the vehicle running for 1-2 min. after starting acceration.
HINT: If a malfunction exists, the malfunction indicator lamp will light up after approximately 60 sec. from start of acceleration.
NOTICE: If the conditions in this test are not strictly follow. Detection of malfunction will not be possible.
There is a DLC1 under the hood. It’s a small black box with a cap covered located at the front left of the engine.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature
2. Connect terminal TE1 and E1 with a paper clip.
3. With a voltmeter, connect positive probe to terminal VF1, VF2 and negative probe to terminal E1 of the DLC1. Probe VF1 and E1 then VF2 and E1.
4. Warm up the oxygen sensor by running engine at 2,500 rpm for about 2 minutes.
5. Then, maintain engine at 2,500 rpm, count how many times needle of volt meter fluctuates between 0 and 5 V.
Results
Needle fluctuates 8 times OK
Continue at 0 V NG type I
Continue at 5V NG type II
Check Voltage between terminals OX1, OX2 and E1 of DLC1.
NG type I
1. Engine still at normal operating temperature.
2. Measure voltage between terminal OX1, OX2 and E1 of DLC1 when engine suddenly race to full throttle.
3. The voltage should be 0.5 V or higher at least once----OK
Need to perform this inspection within 1 sec.
NG type II
There are too much in formation to type in here. Need the whole repair manual.
There is another check for oxygen sensor
1. Start engine and warm up
2. After engine is warm up, let it idle for 3 min.
3. With A/C ON and trans. In D position (O/D ON) perform gradual acceleration within the range 1,300-1,700 rpm (centered around 1,500 rpm)
(Take care that the engine speed does not fall below 1,200 rpm when shifting. Gradually depress the accelerator pedal and kept it steady so that engine breaking does not occur.)
4. Maintain the vehicle speed at 40-50 mph (64-80 km/h)
5. keep the vehicle running for 1-2 min. after starting acceration.
HINT: If a malfunction exists, the malfunction indicator lamp will light up after approximately 60 sec. from start of acceleration.
NOTICE: If the conditions in this test are not strictly follow. Detection of malfunction will not be possible.
they both seem about right as far as code description goes as the engine is tearing through gas and starts up and you can smell the gas very strong. And the transmission is upshifting before 2k rpm at full throttle and it takes finesse to get it to 4k.
any help is greatly appreciated as i need to get back to job hunting tomorrow(moved to Montana from Arizona and picked up this car for 1500 with 237k miles)
11-17-10, 01:08 PM
#2
Diagnostic socket is located between the Toyota badge and the oil filler cap in the picture below (black rectangular with diagnostics written on the top),there is also another diagnostic port inside the car below the fuel/trunk opening controls.
All the port pin outs are marked inside the covers.
This may help you too
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html
A common problem is the coil failing on the passenger side of the engine, a symptom is glowing cats so have a look under when the engine has been running for a while.
Do you have the yellow check engine light on?
All the port pin outs are marked inside the covers.
This may help you too
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html
A common problem is the coil failing on the passenger side of the engine, a symptom is glowing cats so have a look under when the engine has been running for a while.
Do you have the yellow check engine light on?
Last edited by steve2006; 11-17-10 at 01:27 PM. Reason: addition
11-17-10, 01:11 PM
#3
the diagnostics block is right in the middle of the engine bay. its on the drivers side of the intake manifold toward the front of the engine.
its right at the front drivers side of the intake manifold. the lil black rectangular box that says "diagnostics" on it.
for the rich code, id say its a combination of things. check the air filter, check the plugs, change the coolant temp sensor.
as for the trans, the kickdown switch short circuit could be the kickdown cable stuck. or the internal switch its connected to is toast.
also, this site will prolly help
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/
its right at the front drivers side of the intake manifold. the lil black rectangular box that says "diagnostics" on it.
for the rich code, id say its a combination of things. check the air filter, check the plugs, change the coolant temp sensor.
as for the trans, the kickdown switch short circuit could be the kickdown cable stuck. or the internal switch its connected to is toast.
also, this site will prolly help
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/
11-17-10, 01:19 PM
#4
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ill take a look at the cats. as for the trans, is their a way to find out which it is?
oh and lexls is amazing and where i found most of the info up until now along with club lexus
edit: also i have a broken drivers headlight glass, is their any way to get just the glass used or do i have to get the whole assembly for the high/low beam?
oh and lexls is amazing and where i found most of the info up until now along with club lexus
edit: also i have a broken drivers headlight glass, is their any way to get just the glass used or do i have to get the whole assembly for the high/low beam?
Last edited by Migit109; 11-17-10 at 02:11 PM.
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