Transmission Drain Bolt
#16
i would just drop the pan and drill out a slighly larger hole and tap some new threads, probably bump it up to the next biggest imperial sized drain bolt i find at my local napa/autoshop.
just don't try to do it with the pan still on the car.
just don't try to do it with the pan still on the car.
#18
Good luck getting the bolt out! (Seriously - I'm not being sarcastic). If you could get the bolt out without removing the pan, I *think* you'll find the pan's threads are good. I agree with you that the filler tube is a pain. What made re-installation of the pan easier for me was using a new O-ring between the top and bottom portions of the tube (and removing the top filler tube). Given that you've taken the pan off before, I'm pretty sure that you have a swivel socket.
I remember having my wife crawl underneath the car with a flashlight to direct me to where the bolt hole was for the top tube bracket. She does not remember the experience fondly, I might add. She finally got fed up (even after trying to install it herself) and went inside. I remember that once the bolt mated correctly, I knew it immediately. Who could have known that such a small thing could cause so much grief.
I remember having my wife crawl underneath the car with a flashlight to direct me to where the bolt hole was for the top tube bracket. She does not remember the experience fondly, I might add. She finally got fed up (even after trying to install it herself) and went inside. I remember that once the bolt mated correctly, I knew it immediately. Who could have known that such a small thing could cause so much grief.
#19
Goods news - I got the bolt out and replaced it with a new one. The new one didn't go in too smoothly, but I'm hoping it was just chasing the old threads. It tightened up snug and no more leaks.
Sure enough the old bolt didn't want to come out. I just put some downward pressure using a small chisel, changing sides every half turn and it came out.
I don't think I'll take that bolt off again. I'll do drain and fills from the trans cooler.
Sure enough the old bolt didn't want to come out. I just put some downward pressure using a small chisel, changing sides every half turn and it came out.
I don't think I'll take that bolt off again. I'll do drain and fills from the trans cooler.
#20
Goods news - I got the bolt out and replaced it with a new one. The new one didn't go in too smoothly, but I'm hoping it was just chasing the old threads. It tightened up snug and no more leaks.
Sure enough the old bolt didn't want to come out. I just put some downward pressure using a small chisel, changing sides every half turn and it came out.
I don't think I'll take that bolt off again. I'll do drain and fills from the trans cooler.
Sure enough the old bolt didn't want to come out. I just put some downward pressure using a small chisel, changing sides every half turn and it came out.
I don't think I'll take that bolt off again. I'll do drain and fills from the trans cooler.
#24
I took it off, it was on there TIGHT and took effort to get it off. When I went to put it back on, the bolt gets to a point where it feels kinda snug, but when you turn it a bit more... it just loosens up goes all the way around then kinda tightens up again but a bit more effort ....makes it get loose again until it snugs up again. It feels like its on there tight enough and I see no leaks.
Is this what was happening to you when you put your bolt back? or did it just keep spinning without ever feeling snug?
thanks
#25
Same thing. Buy a new bolt and gasket. Unbolt the old one while prying it out with a screwdriver or chisel. Screw the new one in. You should see the threads on the old bolt heavily deformed, mine was almost smooth.
#27
That crush washer/washer is only goof for so many removals before it begins to leak. Easy to get in the mindset of snugging it up more which leads to a stripped bolt or pan threads. Before it comes to that, buy spares to have on hand and that goes for the oil pan bolt too. Saves A LOT of PITA.
#28
Well it hasn't leaked at all but I am going to get a new bolt asap., BTW.... I bought 4qts of MaxLife that was on sale for less than $5 a quart. I did 2 drain and fills. I drove the car for a few days before I did the second one.
I actually have seen a slight improvement between shifts and smoothness. sometimes 1st and or 2nd gear would rev up 200-400rpm's more before it would "catch" .... not anymore. Im very happy with the outcome.
I actually have seen a slight improvement between shifts and smoothness. sometimes 1st and or 2nd gear would rev up 200-400rpm's more before it would "catch" .... not anymore. Im very happy with the outcome.
#29
the tranny oil pan bolts are designed to be a softer material than the pan metal. moreover the bolts are not to be re-used. it is recommended by any reputable tranny shop you replace it. its $5 for the bolt and $5 for the washer. just FYI.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Tiagz
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
6
03-29-23 11:57 AM
PlotPoint
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
8
01-13-13 03:50 AM
marcmindte
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
6
09-19-05 08:53 AM