DIY Brake Job question and SS lines?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DIY Brake Job question and SS lines?
Ok so i changed front pads on my 90 lex ls400 but forgot that i need to use torque wrench set to specific number. I think it is 25lbs. Now i just screwed the caliper screw in tightly.
Is that a problem? Will this cause any damage to brake system. What's at stake here?
Also I'm thinking of installing Goodridge G-Stop (Stainless Steel) Brake Line kit to get rid of pedal being mushy. I think i have old and original brake line rubber ones. I talked to 3 car mechanics and they all said stainless steel brake lines will not improve over rubber. They said inside rubber there also is steel mesh wiring but some ppl at forums swear by it, that it imporoved braking a lot and got rid of mush brake pedal. Anyone had this installed and can actually swear by it? Couldn't brake improvement been just by getting NEW vs old lines?
Is that a problem? Will this cause any damage to brake system. What's at stake here?
Also I'm thinking of installing Goodridge G-Stop (Stainless Steel) Brake Line kit to get rid of pedal being mushy. I think i have old and original brake line rubber ones. I talked to 3 car mechanics and they all said stainless steel brake lines will not improve over rubber. They said inside rubber there also is steel mesh wiring but some ppl at forums swear by it, that it imporoved braking a lot and got rid of mush brake pedal. Anyone had this installed and can actually swear by it? Couldn't brake improvement been just by getting NEW vs old lines?
#2
Driver School Candidate
If you're referring to the bolts that I think you are, a torque wrench isn't really critical. You just need it tight enough to not fall off, and 25 ft/lbs really isn't that tight.
Stainless lines will prevent the rubber brake lines from expanding under pressure, so the pedal will be firmer. However, if your brakes really are mushy, you may have an air bubble in the system. If you haven't flushed your brake fluid, I would recommend doing so.
Stainless lines will prevent the rubber brake lines from expanding under pressure, so the pedal will be firmer. However, if your brakes really are mushy, you may have an air bubble in the system. If you haven't flushed your brake fluid, I would recommend doing so.
#6
Pole Position
Yea the caliper bolts are supposed to be torqued at 25 ft lb. I'm with PD, if it has a torque spec you should always use a torque wrench. Something as important as brakes, I would make sure it's right. Every true mechanic should own a torque wrench, even if it's a cheap one. (Harbor Freight) Any crushable gasket should also be torqued correctly. If ya don't tighten a bolt tight enough it can spin its way loose or if ya over tighten it then it might strip threads, crack parts, or crush gaskets to where they leak.
#7
Lead Lap
I've bought one new and and one low mileage used Lexus LS and neither had a particularly firm brake pedal.
Trending Topics
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm going to do back this weekend. Btw my caliper is pretty rusty and was not seizing up but was touching pads and pads were touching and heating up rotor.
You guys think if i use sand paper on cylinder and get the rust out, blow air it with air and then apply caliper synthetic grease it will work again or is that caliper doomed? I'm gonna try anyway but shall see
Kansas regarding SS lines. Did you have them installed or factory rubber hoses. Thing is those hoses might be original 20yrs old so they definitely garbage now. My ? is is the firmness gonna come from brand new rubber onces or SS only. After all rubber ones would be brand spanking new so def would improve over those OLD ones. But then again if it's SS thingy, then i would rather have shop install them.
#10
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (4)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braided...el_brake_lines
i have ss lines...but i put them on when i pieced together my big brake kit so i cant confirm or deny their stopping ability comparitively speaking. however i would say u r fine with rubber hoses but if they are original u might wanna replace them with new ones
i have ss lines...but i put them on when i pieced together my big brake kit so i cant confirm or deny their stopping ability comparitively speaking. however i would say u r fine with rubber hoses but if they are original u might wanna replace them with new ones
#12
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
95% of the improvement on a street car comes from merely flushing the fluid, since most of those going from rubber-->stainless lines have ancient fluid in them, then swap for new SS lines, forcing them to flush that crap fluid out.
flush the fluid, that's all you need.
flush the fluid, that's all you need.
#15
Super Moderator
iTrader: (6)
Plenty of discussion about SS lines and the teflon issues to ponder.
As for the torque specs, when in doubt torque it to spec. But- have you seen the range of torque specs for some of the fasteners Toyota lists? Given that, one has to be very ham fisted-clueless to not get it within the specs.
Parts that heat cycle, I prefer to have them torqued to spec and especially gasket mating surfaces. Squeaks, rattles are yet another area to keep even values since those are annoying. Especially when removing the dash.
As for the torque specs, when in doubt torque it to spec. But- have you seen the range of torque specs for some of the fasteners Toyota lists? Given that, one has to be very ham fisted-clueless to not get it within the specs.
Parts that heat cycle, I prefer to have them torqued to spec and especially gasket mating surfaces. Squeaks, rattles are yet another area to keep even values since those are annoying. Especially when removing the dash.